Alternator? Randomly turning off/no start (Protege5) B3 engine

[Roysh]

Hi,
I've been through a lot with my Protege, changing a couple of starters, fuel pumps, a water leak...

Now a "new" problem (trying to figure it out for a good time by now) appeared and need some advice.

The car had problems to start after the starter went bad (the car only 'clicked' but nothing else), it was fixed and I continued to use the car as normal, I drive mostly really short distances to college and back and some other errands. However, the car has shut off randomly while I drive or not starting.

I had a similar problem before with a bad pump but when it shutted down it was more a stall thing, now it just shuts down without warning. Thinking it was the same case as before the fuel pressure was tested but it was normal, dueing this test the car shut off but started right away.

I took the car to a scaner (for the port in the engine bay as it doesn't have OBD port under the dash), this showed an old code for the O2 sensor. But they found that the alternator was producing 15-16volts (confirmed with multimeter). Before that I had already changed both bulbs. Could be that the bad alternator is the cause of the random shutts downs? Any help is appreciated

Forgot to say that I already checked the connections on the alternator and they look good

 

[pcb]

I'm thinking ignition switch.

Protege5 with multiple issues

Bought my p5 and week later it was stolen. Got it back few months later and the clutch disk failed. Got a new clutch installed. Broke the what I believe are the 2 safety and range switches. They have 2 green wires coming out. Broke the wires..put spades on them. Dunno if they work. My ignition...

mazdas247.com

 

[Roysh]

I'm thinking ignition switch.

Protege5 with multiple issues

Bought my p5 and week later it was stolen. Got it back few months later and the clutch disk failed. Got a new clutch installed. Broke the what I believe are the 2 safety and range switches. They have 2 green wires coming out. Broke the wires..put spades on them. Dunno if they work. My ignition...

mazdas247.com

You're right may be the cause of the car dying, but I guess it'll leave me still with the voltage problem if I change it

 

[pcb]

Probably, but it's possible that a bad ignition switch can cause the alternator to misread the voltage (because the regulator is in the ECU)

If the ECU is reading voltage coming from a faulty ignition switch a voltage drop across a bad connection in the switch can make the ECU think the voltage is lower than it is.

The ignition switch is relatively cheap (37-43 USD) and is pretty easy to replace.

If that doesn't fix your problem, then look into a new alternator.

A Lot of people have had to replace their ignition starter switch.
It's 20 years old and it wears out causing all kinds of weird electrical problems, and it's a safety issue.

 

[Roysh]

Replaced the ignition switch (old has some kind of grease as in other thread)and it started right up and reached normal temp. I shut it off and started again without issues but after some time it died and didn't wanted to start again, after some minutes it worked again... So I guess it wasn't the switch, still need a voltage reading

 

[Roysh]

Also my fuel pump relay may not be working properly, I put the keys in on position and doesn't hear anything from the pump (i lifted the cover), only after I start the car I can hear a soft hmmm. Tried the test with the DLC and the keys in On position and a more loud sound can be heared from the pump

 

[pcb]

Also my fuel pump relay may not be working properly,

Good call.
I forgot about that.

2003 Protege5 Bogging

First off I wanna say what's up y'all!?! I just recently bought my first ever Mazda last week and it ran great the first day I had it. Then on the 2nd day it ran great for the first 1/4 mile down my road to the stop sign and taking off from the stop it fell flat on it's face. So I tried pedaling...

mazdas247.com

P5 Fuel Pump relay burnt pins

Hi All, hope someone has had a similar issue and can help me troubleshoot. Just picked this car up a couple weeks ago. Started having issues starting, narrowed it down to the fuel pump relay. Pulled it and there was some charring. Not super bad, replaced it and its working for now. If I have a...

mazdas247.com

 

[Roysh]

So, the new alternator arrived and was installed. Yet it also charges the battery at ~15V, a different battery was used in case mine was bad but same results
Had to leave it at the mechanic, we'll see what they found out

 

[sleeprp5]

I had a problem with mine shutting off randomly too. I replaced the fuel pump relay and fuel pump as I had no codes to read either. Turned out to be the wiring for the crank sensor had rubbed thru the sheathing on the back side of the PS pump. It would short out and kill the engine. Hope this helps

 

[pcb]

Check out this thread,..

03 Protege 5MT 2.0L Battery light at high RPMs

Hello all- My battery light comes on when hitting higher rpms (accelerating onto highway etc.). I do not have a Tach so I do not know specifically what RPM. The pedal is pretty much on the floor and it mainly happens in 1st thru 3rd gear, sometimes 4th. What I have tried so far; 2 TWO...

mazdas247.com

 

[Roysh]

I had a problem with mine shutting off randomly too. I replaced the fuel pump relay and fuel pump as I had no codes to read either. Turned out to be the wiring for the crank sensor had rubbed thru the sheathing on the back side of the PS pump. It would short out and kill the engine. Hope this helps

Thanks, I think I checked that already but will look at it again once I've the car back (and time).

Check out this thread,

Gave a reading some time ago, will review it again. I know the conector and cables (at least at the alternator end) are in good shape, at least on the outside. Read somewhere else for a different car that the control wire grounding may be a cause for the overcharge in some cases, idk if could be the case for our Protege too

Also, can't see the pics in the thread :/

Edit: to add is that the battery light doesn't turn on unless I unplug the alternator

 

[pcb]

Read somewhere else for a different car that the control wire grounding may be a cause for the overcharge in some cases, idk if could be the case for our Protege too

Yes it can.
The regulator for our car is in the ECU so if there is a poor connection somewhere, it can create a Voltage drop so the ECU isn't getting an accurate reading of the actual voltage at the battery or alternator.

Also, can't see the pics in the thread :/

Yeah, sorry I lost all my pictures a few years ago.

Edit: to add is that the battery light doesn't turn on unless I unplug the alternator

The battery light does come on if the voltage climbs too high.
It happened on my car when my alternator crapped out and the voltage shot up to 17.5 Volts.
I don't know what the voltage has to be to trigger the battery light?

 

[pcb]

Also, can't see the pics in the thread :/

I don't remember what pictures I posted, but these are two of the codes I talked about.

This is a link to the service manual in case you don't have it.

F L O P T I C A L . N E T

The engine codes are in the engine chapter of the manual.

 

[Roysh]

Hello there again,

Bench tested the alternator and it was working correctly, still changed the voltage regulator inside it and reinstalled the alternator. Ended up with a ±15.6V, adjusted the rpm a little and it reads ~15V. Will keep checking to see if the are any changes or another bulb goes off.

That didn't resolved the random no start, haven't been able to find a pump relay (ironic with the popularity of the car where I live). Mine is a L kind connector.

Wanted to check the ecu and found rust... But the ecu doesn't look bad, sprayed some contact cleaner and reconnected it. Now something weird, if I move the ecu the battery light comes on but not sure what is the cause

 

[Roysh]

Hello again,

As the voltage regulator wasn't original, now my dash show constantly the battery light. Annoying but the alternator seems to be working correctly so far.

The random no start/loss of power is still present so far. Found that my 100 amp fuse was corroded inside so was changed in case that was the culprit... Sadly it wasn't, after a day the car loss power while I was coming back from fieldwork.

Tried to find a new Main relay with no vail, ended buying a new one for a different car that the shop said will work. So I'm testing that one but as the problem is not consistent may take a while to knew for sure

 

[Roysh]

Hello again,

As the voltage regulator wasn't original, now my dash show constantly the battery light. Annoying but the alternator seems to be working correctly so far.

The random no start/loss of power is still present so far. Found that my 100 amp fuse was corroded inside so was changed in case that was the culprit... Sadly it wasn't, after a day the car loss power while I was coming back from fieldwork.

Tried to find a new Main relay with no vail, ended buying a new one for a different car that the shop said will work. So I'm testing that one but as the problem is not consistent may take a while to knew for sure

The car started without problem with the new relay. Everything seemed alright until an (old) problem appeared, the fuel hose wasn't secured properly and losed gas. I repaired it and continued my way. Then after ~20min the car lossed power as always and then the whole day I had problem with it shutting off.

I'm thinking my next option is to change the whole fuel housing in case it's clogged or something. But someone recommend me to add first an second filter between the fuel tank and fuel rail so it can be assured is the housing.

Has anybody tried this on the Protege? What is probably the best location for the second filter?

 

[pcb]

If your car is stalling due a lack of fuel pressure caused by a clogged high pressure fuel filter, then adding a second in-line fuel filter won't help.

A proper high pressure fuel filter is less than $30 USD at Rockauto and takes less than half an hour to replace if your car isn't a rusty turd like mine was.

How To Change Your Fuel Filter (lots of pics)

Thanks to mtnbiker26 for starting his thread and everyone who contributed to it. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123718385-Has-Anyone-Had-Their-Fuel-Pump-Cover-Leak I finally got around to installing my fuel filter using the how-to. The first and easiest step is to lift up the...

mazdas247.com

Make sure that you use a proper JIS screwdriver or you will strip the heads of the screws, then it will take A LOT longer to replace.

 

[Roysh]

If your car is stalling due a lack of fuel pressure caused by a clogged high pressure fuel filter, then adding a second in-line fuel filter won't help.

A proper high pressure fuel filter is less than $30 USD at Rockauto and takes less than half an hour to replace if your car isn't a rusty turd like mine was.

View attachment 319089

How To Change Your Fuel Filter (lots of pics)

Thanks to mtnbiker26 for starting his thread and everyone who contributed to it. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123718385-Has-Anyone-Had-Their-Fuel-Pump-Cover-Leak I finally got around to installing my fuel filter using the how-to. The first and easiest step is to lift up the...

mazdas247.com

Make sure that you use a proper JIS screwdriver or you will strip the heads of the screws, then it will take A LOT longer to replace.


View attachment 319091

The second filter is to 'probe' if the high pression filter is the problem.

The idea is placing it in a location such that if a stall happens I can check it to see if there is fuel or it just happens that the main filter is clogged.

The price for me is more like 70 usd, so i guess is better to be sure before

 

[pcb]

I replaced my fuel filter/fuel pump housing without having any driveability issues.
I figured that it was like an air filter or an oil filter.

Remember it's just the housing, it's not the entire fuel sending unit.

Some guys were being sold the entire fuel sending unit.
Even the Mazda mechanics didn't know that the filter housing itself could be replaced.

Generally, the fuel pump is shot after being stressed pushing fuel through a clogged filter, so they sell you an entire fuel sending unit for up to $700.

 

[Roysh]

Ok, so my car is not like the US version (or at least not the "modern" ones)

It works with a distributor, and inside of it is the ignition module with a hall type sensor that basically a CKP sensor. This must be the culprit. When the cars shuts off the fuel pump doesn't get voltage and there is not spark.

When the car do runs, I've really good spark and I alredy changed the cap and spark plug cables. So I don't think is the coil inside the distributor.

Now I've to find this ICM somewhere or buy a second hand distributor. Let's see what happens in the future