Rough estimate on a lift gate repair? 2010 CX-9

Oh, what were you trying to do then?
here ya go at Ocala. call and verify.

drivers side frontal impact. no damage to rear/hatch.

since its a 2008, try to haggle price if over $100. if they say $60 just grab it.

or buy the newer used one online for $200 if you can get like a more recent one(2012, 2013, 2015, etc)
What website did you use to find this? Ocala is a drivable distance for me.

For the newer ones, how do I know what year would fit this car? Are they all compatible up to a certain point?
 
Oh, what were you trying to do then?

What website did you use to find this? Ocala is a drivable distance for me.

For the newer ones, how do I know what year would fit this car? Are they all compatible up to a certain point?
Sorry, I've driven over up to 90 minutes away to get parts myself and thought the distance might be ok.

There were no junkyards in Orlando with that part or they aren't part of the national network. You could try calling an Orlando junkyard and see if they can look it up on their system.

Overall it appears Georgia and Virginia salvage yards have alot of CX9 on their lots but not too many in Florida.

Ocala might mail it to you if you ask.

I don't know what's compatible.
I always ask. When you ask them they'll tell you what's compatible.
They'll say something like oh 2007 to 2015 are interchangeable, etc. They have compatibility checks on their computers.

Only a 5 -10 minute phone call. Otherwise you may need to order off eBay. Also don't forget to see what a new one from dealer costs.
 
New will cost you about $1600 for all the parts related to the motor including the motor, control module, actuator and black control arm, or you could buy a new motor for $700 and see if your other parts are reusable. alot easier to just buy salvage and connect up the wiring harness though.
 

Attachments

  • mazda liftgate new pricing.png
    mazda liftgate new pricing.png
    51.8 KB · Views: 51
I might not be a mechanic but I have a suspicion the arm cylinder thing wasn't supposed to be filled with insulation like I found this morning
PXL_20230107_134911997.jpg

PXL_20230107_134911997.jpg



Did find the long lost arm though!
16730998494547966334978841568068.jpg


Trying to clean it all out now to see what happens but at least we know what caused it to burn out. The side panel insulation is a mess so I am taking it all out after I clean the motor.
 
So it's stuck in the up position. Is there any way to manually screw it back down?


PXL_20230107_141015828.jpg



The lift gate motor will only attempt to move when the door is closed. It tries to spin a tiny amount but then senses it is already up and stops. It won't try to spin back down. It only spins when the door is first closed and won't go again until I open the door and shut it again. I have cleaned out all of the insulation I can access.
PXL_20230107_141336553.jpg


All I can think of is if there is a way to somehow manually get this down now so it can try again. No idea how or if that's possible.
 
Try to disconnect the motor from the mechanism and you should be able to manually turn the gear then.

EDIT - if you do get it back down and reconnected there may be a re-learn process for the motor to differentiate open and closed like there is on most auto-up/down windows. On those you open the window and hold the switch for 10 seconds and then do the same in the down position. That lets the motors know when to stop in each direction.
 
So it's stuck in the up position. Is there any way to manually screw it back down?


View attachment 314970


The lift gate motor will only attempt to move when the door is closed. It tries to spin a tiny amount but then senses it is already up and stops. It won't try to spin back down. It only spins when the door is first closed and won't go again until I open the door and shut it again. I have cleaned out all of the insulation I can access.
View attachment 314971

All I can think of is if there is a way to somehow manually get this down now so it can try again. No idea how or if that's possible.

How much is your time worth?

The amount of time you may spend trying to re-orientate it is not worth it. The motor already sounds bad and likely may be already damaged and burn out completely in the near future.

If it was me, I'd travel 90 minutes to the junkyard and get the salvage replacement and try to haggle it for $60 to $150 depending on what they start price at. Try to get at least 10 to 30 % off whatever they ask.so if they want $150, ask if you can get it for $110 to $130.

Spend time driving ?
Or spend time trying to fix something which may not be fixable and may not work well?

Please let us know when it's fixed and how you did it.
 
It would appear from that last pic the the motor is at the bottom and it turns that shaft (screw) to move the carrier up and down. Given that you may have to replace it there's no harm in removing the unit and attempting to separate the motor from the shaft. Once that's done you can verify that the shaft and the carrier are moving freely. After that it's a matter of verifying whether the motor has the 'juice' to do it's job.
 
The Ocala location is closed for the weekend, tried calling. Will need to wait until Monday for that.

In the mean time I performed some surgery.

PXL_20230107_154929353.jpg

PXL_20230107_155150862.jpg


Still not sure how to manually try anything. Since it's going to be a while before I can get a replacement I figure, as suggested, I can muck around with this one to see if anything can happen. Anyone have any suggestions on how to separate it now that it's out? How do I pull it apart or try to screw the thing down by hand?

To an earlier response, I mean Ocala is doable for me, the distance is fine.
 


Well how about this! I unscrewed stuff as suggested and can manually pull the screw down!!!

Let me hook it back up inside the car and let's see what it does.
 
To get to the lift gate motor you need to remove the fuel door on the outside of the car?

No, the point of him posting that video was to show how to access the area located near the fuel door, which also happens to be near the panel you want to remove. Watch it to see if you can get more insight on how to remove that interior panel.


EDIT: Oops, sorry, didn't notice that there were more posts. Looks like the insulation definitely jammed it up a bunch. Glad to hear you were able to get it moving manually again! Hopefully this fixes the issue for you. Replacement struts, while they may not be needed, are still a good idea as they will make it easier for the motor to do it's job.
 
Okay so final update..

TLDR: IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks everyone! I should have done this years ago.


Long version:

After doing what I did in the video above I put it back into the car and attached the power. The motor moved up. Pushed it again and the motor moved down but then beeped a couple of times and moved back up. This reminded me of when you would get something caught in the lock when it tried to close and it emergency opens again. Put in a few bolts to hold it in place and put the rear trim on. Pushed the button and it didnt move.
Potential disaster!

Closed it down with my hand and then opened it again manually. Pushed the button again and this time gave it a little nudge and it started to close. Amazing. Took a few tries and it eventually evened itself out and closed fully and latched. I was shocked. Pushed the button again and it opened.

After yelling out in joy I put all the other bolts in and tightened everything up. Put all the bits and pieces of side panels and everything back in and tested it again, I used the keyfob, liftgate button, and the button up by the steering wheel. Everything functions.

The design of this model with the insulation just being out in the open on the other side of the panel and then having the screw shaft of the mechanism out in the open seems like a bad idea, well not even seems, it is a bad idea because of what happened here.

So two things
1) Struts, which ones are recommended? They dont seem very hard to replace so I might as well keep this going and get a pair.

2) The control arm which has been lost for years until today, one side of it is missing the little clip thing that secures it in place:

IgavoSe5NITNF4YGJkwavJbOW5G9eIgPWs9rqUlx_XEHRoTc-zX1JT5u3T56VhikBbaXQ435ozlPfq92p78u2EGSSfL28l2MJNyFkiiqL3NKDHXMPYEyC6Mwdz69-LPnz1w8m2-QNXZMY4TCeVUE0VqOVVIOLXpKbjtWr5Nqzh_6WBU70rVwPUXXQ75wFa3K_UAxpugoNgpIwJxnWGQ4TVINFSZYHKvNb-B8i8dIqvEmjQ6F6mNYssV7EtHBnw5iM0ibqUx1DSYjijF-z0ImDepgGMPF9XSv3zL_pP6ePDlDUS6McgoEst32QLd7H7FX7g-Zp3aS-J2mFQzTtMu8O_2m-cH_fR919UD7JF13w4h28cPyfzYaOpiSfvpBHB-N8TQu7ae-pBtyZs8EUKyjiPURM5WO_x1QmS_XskLBXVRIukZTlp96JbKAl2N8u5LzxtaADChJd9mbjwjgN3knMSku2Tvj7MLJ_hWrUhAimat7RzZcGlX07MMRx58RtqvLplZdW-KmEZvzxmsFQdG62p2yjsQG6i1wtkuoB806xUxTSf8m7x2HDUhBeEg29Yec208YP4ukdVXoNDlHm-M1Gqq_AcuVk3_s9ryJ5k8UpyHY8celSviHN1p5rnqjovGi8C0SYvJXuvsgRZ7boz-8fVcYlL18pnHthLaghnD9CHumU2V3qa95KrgrmbmxleAu7X7yre2z4V3VTPkVvOQS7ot_gJunxY1x234zK87mQie3h9N-raWzchenvqqV8cUY5xvagZo___HxsZneJri_pbM4n_oyNJtZdtuRAdHIS2bxMbjle6agXCZZXGz0Y5pACtkofjsS_TYM0T8GYEuEjX5MC8Z5pbTJQoVPh4G0YlFqc9m0d-HvTQtD5lKVoF9pGH7uzDhquLzqXJEUYtvMFftcsidmwJuLDrh1WpgE_0Bggg=w911-h1215-no


This part.

On the other side it is missing:

nPav92DPhktLG_VcXYRXkQ1qy_KSLJStF3f7iAjj9_aTk2uCgOhDnyg0PsLfbyhIkb0wxE9WMyHWk8XE8DmcU4Jjs0r0KdxxUQWXWFQE_XCgkUzw1OzLYKW5n7Im3P9OFj6myeF7XO5lBA6pkE54zuo3s4SfpyWyoT8ZA_21zV5YGqe_yj_UcYddAC_684S0BD8mscbCBl7008p67M1zHV9zqkwR8rAW-I1xhK8NLv1XzJTaWR8IAOTPjJRYzW3djRvAPLneVea3sblkXFN2IfBgK8fneUqVZv2582tCVm5wpBCyM-uHAJTh7ZlrgzvaDLJYE-AhU6X0y6UC55qApc6QWBQriU2Ly2KUSOHjaw8I02vibo07ACjyn4EfBLem_3dx7IWQCNtccW-thpmZat7ZpxdgMnIwFiBuiDXulNVj3Yiyb6jQSU3xT5x3LG0l8qHADoroAc5nLAYsWJkwdd2AKgrdm038LyRCdWrj4_mCbPyUbGABbv40-9jxNTcQAqA90s2mT6iFfhRz2cAq2o8qsBDDbYFbP_xqLjgHa0zIvek-lWqE0Md_NyZb-t6YnEMlXIW5JXCIOSwcf1zFWJg7hmApVZftvcuIfG0WZqJLSpineLguSUAVGKMKdYuzcOoh1sSWhMVS3EvmgEJyBt9W2YUxCkPrjoQ9f2stBQtG0eTSLsfgzK-NvvUo-1YyvmaOi3RLhsGI4UROFnoT9yoxQPcnPBufMynSXyeQ5zp4qrPsrypgu1qTNt4YA8HFJvjSNi7J5dkKagkqGt5L8ZaXXwbplTxfRrB1VJF2MCOCPbyGHgJjyB8Ce7s33wIlT5iKMoZj9ZEWoiFZ3ZlxaXvYmvEWwRO_o4VhuWd0FUF8V7V8_FklglWX41s8GUjch6zucfn-RlJKySdtEU13h8We2Mf2O_ySS3Nb04veU_xKNg=w911-h1215-no



I put the side with the clip in the side panel so the less secure one is up on the lift gate now so at least I can access it if something happens. Can I get just this clip somewhere?
 
Okay so final update..

TLDR: IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks everyone! I should have done this years ago.


Long version:

After doing what I did in the video above I put it back into the car and attached the power. The motor moved up. Pushed it again and the motor moved down but then beeped a couple of times and moved back up. This reminded me of when you would get something caught in the lock when it tried to close and it emergency opens again. Put in a few bolts to hold it in place and put the rear trim on. Pushed the button and it didnt move.
Potential disaster!

Closed it down with my hand and then opened it again manually. Pushed the button again and this time gave it a little nudge and it started to close. Amazing. Took a few tries and it eventually evened itself out and closed fully and latched. I was shocked. Pushed the button again and it opened.

After yelling out in joy I put all the other bolts in and tightened everything up. Put all the bits and pieces of side panels and everything back in and tested it again, I used the keyfob, liftgate button, and the button up by the steering wheel. Everything functions.

The design of this model with the insulation just being out in the open on the other side of the panel and then having the screw shaft of the mechanism out in the open seems like a bad idea, well not even seems, it is a bad idea because of what happened here.

So two things
1) Struts, which ones are recommended? They dont seem very hard to replace so I might as well keep this going and get a pair.

2) The control arm which has been lost for years until today, one side of it is missing the little clip thing that secures it in place:

IgavoSe5NITNF4YGJkwavJbOW5G9eIgPWs9rqUlx_XEHRoTc-zX1JT5u3T56VhikBbaXQ435ozlPfq92p78u2EGSSfL28l2MJNyFkiiqL3NKDHXMPYEyC6Mwdz69-LPnz1w8m2-QNXZMY4TCeVUE0VqOVVIOLXpKbjtWr5Nqzh_6WBU70rVwPUXXQ75wFa3K_UAxpugoNgpIwJxnWGQ4TVINFSZYHKvNb-B8i8dIqvEmjQ6F6mNYssV7EtHBnw5iM0ibqUx1DSYjijF-z0ImDepgGMPF9XSv3zL_pP6ePDlDUS6McgoEst32QLd7H7FX7g-Zp3aS-J2mFQzTtMu8O_2m-cH_fR919UD7JF13w4h28cPyfzYaOpiSfvpBHB-N8TQu7ae-pBtyZs8EUKyjiPURM5WO_x1QmS_XskLBXVRIukZTlp96JbKAl2N8u5LzxtaADChJd9mbjwjgN3knMSku2Tvj7MLJ_hWrUhAimat7RzZcGlX07MMRx58RtqvLplZdW-KmEZvzxmsFQdG62p2yjsQG6i1wtkuoB806xUxTSf8m7x2HDUhBeEg29Yec208YP4ukdVXoNDlHm-M1Gqq_AcuVk3_s9ryJ5k8UpyHY8celSviHN1p5rnqjovGi8C0SYvJXuvsgRZ7boz-8fVcYlL18pnHthLaghnD9CHumU2V3qa95KrgrmbmxleAu7X7yre2z4V3VTPkVvOQS7ot_gJunxY1x234zK87mQie3h9N-raWzchenvqqV8cUY5xvagZo___HxsZneJri_pbM4n_oyNJtZdtuRAdHIS2bxMbjle6agXCZZXGz0Y5pACtkofjsS_TYM0T8GYEuEjX5MC8Z5pbTJQoVPh4G0YlFqc9m0d-HvTQtD5lKVoF9pGH7uzDhquLzqXJEUYtvMFftcsidmwJuLDrh1WpgE_0Bggg=w911-h1215-no


This part.

On the other side it is missing:

nPav92DPhktLG_VcXYRXkQ1qy_KSLJStF3f7iAjj9_aTk2uCgOhDnyg0PsLfbyhIkb0wxE9WMyHWk8XE8DmcU4Jjs0r0KdxxUQWXWFQE_XCgkUzw1OzLYKW5n7Im3P9OFj6myeF7XO5lBA6pkE54zuo3s4SfpyWyoT8ZA_21zV5YGqe_yj_UcYddAC_684S0BD8mscbCBl7008p67M1zHV9zqkwR8rAW-I1xhK8NLv1XzJTaWR8IAOTPjJRYzW3djRvAPLneVea3sblkXFN2IfBgK8fneUqVZv2582tCVm5wpBCyM-uHAJTh7ZlrgzvaDLJYE-AhU6X0y6UC55qApc6QWBQriU2Ly2KUSOHjaw8I02vibo07ACjyn4EfBLem_3dx7IWQCNtccW-thpmZat7ZpxdgMnIwFiBuiDXulNVj3Yiyb6jQSU3xT5x3LG0l8qHADoroAc5nLAYsWJkwdd2AKgrdm038LyRCdWrj4_mCbPyUbGABbv40-9jxNTcQAqA90s2mT6iFfhRz2cAq2o8qsBDDbYFbP_xqLjgHa0zIvek-lWqE0Md_NyZb-t6YnEMlXIW5JXCIOSwcf1zFWJg7hmApVZftvcuIfG0WZqJLSpineLguSUAVGKMKdYuzcOoh1sSWhMVS3EvmgEJyBt9W2YUxCkPrjoQ9f2stBQtG0eTSLsfgzK-NvvUo-1YyvmaOi3RLhsGI4UROFnoT9yoxQPcnPBufMynSXyeQ5zp4qrPsrypgu1qTNt4YA8HFJvjSNi7J5dkKagkqGt5L8ZaXXwbplTxfRrB1VJF2MCOCPbyGHgJjyB8Ce7s33wIlT5iKMoZj9ZEWoiFZ3ZlxaXvYmvEWwRO_o4VhuWd0FUF8V7V8_FklglWX41s8GUjch6zucfn-RlJKySdtEU13h8We2Mf2O_ySS3Nb04veU_xKNg=w911-h1215-no



I put the side with the clip in the side panel so the less secure one is up on the lift gate now so at least I can access it if something happens. Can I get just this clip somewhere?
Yes...use the one(lock clip) from the old struts once you replace them. They should be similar the control rod clip. If not, just buy a used rod(with clip) at the junkyard.

Great you got it working. Hope it keeps working for you.

Any struts will do.

I've used Hiflyer(on Amazon) Strongarm(from rockauto) and Stabilus. They all work equally well. Just get something and get it on there. Have your wife hold the trunk while you change them. Or use a long 2x4 wedged. Safer to have someone hold it.
 
Glad it worked out as well as it did. New struts to help the motor out can't hurt. After reading all this I've ordered a set for my '12 as I expect it could not hurt after all these years.
 
Those are for the regular gate, not power gate. I got mine from Mazda because nobody lists them for the power gate. Not sure of the difference.
Odd. The ones I have now worked fine for the past two years with no power liftgate so they were almost a manual one themselves.

Do you know what part number yours is?
 
Back