Exhaust upgrades???

[pbuch1]

Thanks for clicking on my post. First time poster, long time reader.
recently bought a 2007 MS3 GT and couldn't be happier with this car. I have driven 4 cyl beaters all my life and have never had the joy of driving a car like this. I am not a muscle car type of person, but I enjoy the exhilaration of jumping on it in third/fourth gear and smoking lesser mortals.

That being said, I'd like to take this car to the next level within budget and within my skills as an everyday driver. 263hp is pretty bad ass on a sport wagon like this, but honestly, 300hp+ sounds (and will feel) better to me!

Since I won't be doing all my upgrades at once, does anyone have any advice on what order to modify this car. It seems from reading posts that exhaust and tuning is going to get me where I want to be. SRI vs CAI. Down pipe. Chip. Headers. I just want to know if there is a logical progression in purchases and would like to get the most HP/torque quickest.

Thanks for any info you feel like providing.

 

[magicka]

Get a tune first. Either a Cobb AccessPort or a Hypertech, depending on how much control you want to have over your tune and how far you plan to go with your upgrades. The Hypertech is an excellent 95% solution for basic bolt-ons, but for more advanced mods and custom tunes you'll want an AP.

I'd go with an SRI next, followed by CDFP internals and a downpipe, then a FMIC. At some point, you'll probably want to consider upgrading at least the rear motor mount, possibly the side mounts too.

After that, things can spiral out of control in a hurry. Porting the intake manifold, upgrading the exhaust manifold, adding water/meth injection, new turbo, etc.

 

[WillD]

This is a pretty awesome thread that outlines all of the popular mods and a recommended order for adding them: http://www.mazda3 forums.com/index.php?topic=130515.0

 

[MSMS3]

Intake, intake, intake. Period. First mod. Will instantly net you 15-20 whp and torque. Don't get bogged down in the CAI v. SRI debate. Get a good name brand of your choice. I prefer CAI for a lot of reasons but the difference is mostly academic and shows up only if you spend a lot of time stuck in traffic jams and the SRI becomes heat soaked.

The exhaust side issues are all upstream of the CBE. The stock CBE has excellent flow and little power can be gained by upgrading that. The restrictions are in the stock downpipe and the two low flow cats.

However, a tune is recommended if you go with a downpipe just because that alone will raise boost about 2 psi over stock and you are likely to get some nasty boost spikes up into the 21 psi range that could be harmful.

FMIC or bigger TMIC can come later, if at all.

Stock BPV is excellent. Unless you can prove it leaks and 99.9% of them do not - ever.

An inportant mod, some might say a good first mod, is to replace the very sloppy rear motor mount.

Finally, the best for last. Before you go beyond a simple intake, you must have monitoring capability on this engine. A boost gauge at a minimum, preferably some type of logging scan tool/gauge. That can range from something as simple as Torque software on you smart phone via bluetooth dongle, to Dash Hawk, to AP or something like I use - ScanPro XL with Mazda specific PID's on a fast laptop.

Intake first, monitoring second, above after that.

 

[Domino81]

15-20 is an optomistic number. 10. Maybe. It's a great first mod, but you won't see 15-20.

 

[pbuch1]

Excellent info. Intake was definitely my first project. But I am concerned about the SRI vs CAI debate. From watching vids of SRI's, it seems to have that standard blow off "hiss". I know I'm rolling a four cyl here, but I am looking for a "throatier" sound. Would a CAI have the same "hiss" response? Doesn't CAI give you better torque returns in the middle gears?

Re: the engine mounts, what can I expect to pay to replace the rear ones? And do I really need to until I get some heftier mods?

Full disclosure, as you probably can tell, I am not an engine guru and plan to rely on these boards to give me decent advice. Thanks!

 

[magicka]

A replacement rear motor mount (RMM) will be in the $125-140 range, depending on brand and retailer. You don't really need it in the sense that damage will occur without it, but it will improve shift feel and help you put power to the ground better.

 

[Domino81]

Race pipe.

 

[MSMS3]

15-20 is an optomistic number. 10. Maybe. It's a great first mod, but you won't see 15-20.

What about the before and after testing of a new Gen 1 MS3 by Road and Track Magazine with the only power mod being the Mazdaspeed CAI? My own experience with the same mod as my first mod was identical.

Road and Track Magazine got better than 20 whp and torque gain (24/28) with the Mazdaspeed CAI with dyno pulls to back it up. Just Google "Road and Track Mazdaspeed 3 Long Term." It should come up. I can't get the link to post right here. There is also before and after drag strip testing. Gained two tenths in ET and two mph trap speed. 10-15 whp would only gain half of that. The mod was transformational.

 

[pbuch1]

I just purchased a SURE Aeros SRI. From research it seems to be a good match for an MS3. Plan to get it installed this weekend, unless the general consensus that these are easily installed is true. Again, I'm an engine novice, but would love to pat myself on the back for doing my own install!

Also, while talking to the guy at SU, I mentioned my next mod being a downpipe. He suggested this:

http://www.***************/SURE_Motorsports_M3_Track_Pipe_MAZDASPEED_3_p/sure0400.htm

Description says "track use only". What's the difference between a race pipe and a down pipe? I had looked at a Cobb downpipe. Looked totally different to this. Suggestions?

 

[Eleanor62]

Get a tune first. Either a Cobb AccessPort or a Hypertech

 

[DusterAZ]

This image explains it all:

I just purchased a SURE Aeros SRI. From research it seems to be a good match for an MS3. Plan to get it installed this weekend, unless the general consensus that these are easily installed is true. Again, I'm an engine novice, but would love to pat myself on the back for doing my own install!

Also, while talking to the guy at SU, I mentioned my next mod being a downpipe. He suggested this:

http://www.***************/SURE_Motorsports_M3_Track_Pipe_MAZDASPEED_3_p/sure0400.htm

Description says "track use only". What's the difference between a race pipe and a down pipe? I had looked at a Cobb downpipe. Looked totally different to this. Suggestions?

 

[Domino81]

What about the before and after testing of a new Gen 1 MS3 by Road and Track Magazine with the only power mod being the Mazdaspeed CAI? My own experience with the same mod as my first mod was identical.

Road and Track Magazine got better than 20 whp and torque gain (24/28) with the Mazdaspeed CAI with dyno pulls to back it up. Just Google "Road and Track Mazdaspeed 3 Long Term." It should come up. I can't get the link to post right here. There is also before and after drag strip testing. Gained two tenths in ET and two mph trap speed. 10-15 whp would only gain half of that. The mod was transformational.

Horsepower TV didn't get more than 10 whp when they tested their AEM intake (which is JUST like the Mazdaspeed CAI) WITH their Hypertech. That car made 260whp. I don't buy 20 whp.

 

[pbuch1]

Horsepower TV didn't get more than 10 whp when they tested their AEM intake (which is JUST like the Mazdaspeed CAI) WITH their Hypertech. That car made 260whp. I don't buy 20 whp.

Hypertech vs AP? With my SRI addition this weekend, can I realistically expect a significant HP/TQ increase from either of these if I choose to add? I read 60+HP from Hypertech. ?????

 

[EpicPopcicle]

Get an Accessport, then internals, RMM/TMM, SRI and TIP, Oil catch can, EGR delete, then start the DP and Exhaust i got an Ebay DP for 150 and it works just as good if not better then most DPs out there. But before DP you need the Accessport and you need internals without that you are FAIL waiting to happen. Once you have that get the small stuff like new plugs and gap your springs and s***. Once you start modding, your car will almost tell you what it needs as you get farther into it

 

[EpicPopcicle]

get AP its everything you will ever need and more trust me

 

[etipp98]

Go big turbo, instant 100+ HP

 

[magicka]

Yes, you can expect a significant boost in power and torque, and perhaps a slight bump in fuel economy, with a tune.

The Hypertech vs. AP is vigorous and ongoing. Both are good solutions, but they're targeted at different markets. The Hypertech runs around $450 new, $325 used. Its a good plug and play solution for those who are planning to do basic mods (intake, downpipe) and stop. The canned tunes are safe, reliable and offer good gains.

The AP runs around $550 new ($425 used) and comes with canned tunes that are equivilant to Hypertechs. It's best suited for those who are planning more extensive mods (big turbo, water/meth injection) and/or want the ability to custom-tune their vehicle. It will let you (or your tuner) dial the car in to match your mods and fuel, but it also opens the door the bent rods and windowed blocks. The AP also give you the ability to log data.

I have an AP and I like it, but many others here (@MSMS3) are using the HT with good results.

 

[EpicPopcicle]

and not 1 but 2 bottles of Nitrous

 

[MSMS3]

Yes, you can expect a significant boost in power and torque, and perhaps a slight bump in fuel economy, with a tune.

The Hypertech vs. AP is vigorous and ongoing. Both are good solutions, but they're targeted at different markets. The Hypertech runs around $450 new, $325 used. Its a good plug and play solution for those who are planning to do basic mods (intake, downpipe) and stop. The canned tunes are safe, reliable and offer good gains.

The AP runs around $550 new ($425 used) and comes with canned tunes that are equivilant to Hypertechs. It's best suited for those who are planning more extensive mods (big turbo, water/meth injection) and/or want the ability to custom-tune their vehicle. It will let you (or your tuner) dial the car in to match your mods and fuel, but it also opens the door the bent rods and windowed blocks. The AP also give you the ability to log data.

I have an AP and I like it, but many others here (@MSMS3) are using the HT with good results.

^ + Excellent concise summary. Helpful and objective. Thank you.