Mushy Brakes

[Stormtrooper77]

I've just installed 4 new brake pads (OEM) and now my brake pedal feel is really mushy. The car seems to stop fine, it's just that you need to really stomp on it to do so. Any ideas? I know SS line will most likely solve the problem but seeing as I only went OEM, money is an issue. Is there something I need to adjust afterwards that I'm missing? My ebrake works fine. The travel on the handle has shortened up from before as expected. The fluid level is also fine.

 

[65racecoupe]

I've just installed 4 new brake pads (OEM) and now my brake pedal feel is really mushy. The car seems to stop fine, it's just that you need to really stomp on it to do so. Any ideas? I know SS line will most likely solve the problem but seeing as I only went OEM, money is an issue. Is there something I need to adjust afterwards that I'm missing? My ebrake works fine. The travel on the handle has shortened up from before as expected. The fluid level is also fine.

Make sure you have bled the brakes. Any air trapped in the lines IS NOT GOOD.

 

[nealric]

Yeah, sounds like a bleeding problem. Im not sure why just swapping the pads would do that.

 

[Stormtrooper77]

How would just changing pads require bleeding?

 

[kudakev615]

did you open the bleeder valve and/or remove the master cylinder cap BEFORE compressing the piston back in? by keeping the brake system closed, you create pressure on the seals and can weaken them or blow them out by moving them in reverse motion they are used to. i hve seen sealin the the master cylidner weaken or give out on older cars by going this. but id still bleed the system out before going any futher.

 

[65racecoupe]

did you open the bleeder valve and/or remove the master cylinder cap BEFORE compressing the piston back in? by keeping the brake system closed, you create pressure on the seals and can weaken them or blow them out by moving them in reverse motion they are used to. i hve seen sealin the the master cylidner weaken or give out on older cars by going this. but id still bleed the system out before going any futher.

Yep, and messing with the bleeders at all could suck air into the system, especially with bad communication (did you say press the pedal or release,.... damnit!!!)

 

[speed_addict]

I just did my brakes yesterday (granted I installed EBC performance brakes it shouldnt make a difference).... at first they were really mushy too but I just did a couple of hard 20, 30, and 40 mph stops to break them in a bit and wear off the break in coating- after that they work great and my pedal is back to normal.

 

[Stormtrooper77]

did you open the bleeder valve and/or remove the master cylinder cap BEFORE compressing the piston back in? by keeping the brake system closed, you create pressure on the seals and can weaken them or blow them out by moving them in reverse motion they are used to. i hve seen sealin the the master cylidner weaken or give out on older cars by going this. but id still bleed the system out before going any futher.

No, I did not do that. It's funny because all other brakes I've done I've never had to. They all seem to work fine.

When you sharply and firmly push on the pedal they are not mushy. But when just gradual braking (everyday traffic) then they seem mushier than before. Also, I still cannot push the pedal all the way to the floor. That's a good thing.

 

[kudakev615]

from what you describe, it sounds like either air in the system of the master giving out on you. from not being able to drive the car. did you resurface the rotors when you did the pads? i have seen where were the rotor was glazed over from pad slappin and the pad would skip over the rotor. from the heat build up and lack from friction. but that would most likely cause bad noises too which you have not mentioned. i would sa keep driving it if it feels safe and if it doesnt get any better, take it to a shop for them to look at it

 

[Stormtrooper77]

I'm going to drive it for another week to see if it improves.

 

[evolv]

I'm going to drive it for another week to see if it improves.

Did you do a good break in on the new pads... take the car to 60kph then brake firmly to about 40kph.. repeat 6 times or so. that will seat the pads.

Also, did you turn the rotors before installing the new pads? If not you may need to do 20 stops like above to get those pads to match the grooves in the old rotors.

I'm home today and possible club meet tonight...

 

[Stormtrooper77]

Did you do a good break in on the new pads... take the car to 60kph then brake firmly to about 40kph.. repeat 6 times or so. that will seat the pads.

Also, did you turn the rotors before installing the new pads? If not you may need to do 20 stops like above to get those pads to match the grooves in the old rotors.

I'm home today and possible club meet tonight...

I did quite a few stops over the weekend...they are gradually getting better. I didn't remember brakes ever taking this long to break in. Oh well.

Thanks.

 

[gone_fishin]

Usually a spongy brake pedal feeling is due to the brake master cylinder giving out. If that's the case, it's demise occuring right after you replaced the brake pads could be pure coincidence. However, it's more likely that you have an issue with air in your brake lines.

 

[Stormtrooper77]

Well, like I said, my brakes are gradually getting better. But now I have an issue of the pad not covering the whole rotor. When I purchased the pads, I measured them with the old ones and they were the same. I can't remember about the pad material itself though. But take a look. The red is where the contact patch is and is actually only about 5mm smaller both inner and outer than the rotor surface. Did I get the wrong pads? I was there and sure enough they were listed as "2003 Protege Speed". There were separate ones for the regular Protege.

I think at the beginning I wasn't experiencing mushy brakes, but infact it was because there was not enough contact with the rotors so I had to apply more pressure to stop.

Any ideas? Get new pads (again)? Leave them?

 

[speedcicle]

I've just installed 4 new brake pads (OEM) and now my brake pedal feel is really mushy. The car seems to stop fine, it's just that you need to really stomp on it to do so. Any ideas? I know SS line will most likely solve the problem but seeing as I only went OEM, money is an issue. Is there something I need to adjust afterwards that I'm missing? My ebrake works fine. The travel on the handle has shortened up from before as expected. The fluid level is also fine.

Let me ask you a question lets start simple. After you installed the brake pads did you pump your pedal up before you started the car??????

 

[Stormtrooper77]

Let me ask you a question lets start simple. After you installed the brake pads did you pump your pedal up before you started the car??????

Hahaha! Of course.

 

[Stormtrooper77]

Actually, I'm pretty sure I got the brakes for the regular Protege. The contact surface is actually almost a centimeter smaller on both the inner edge and outer edge.

 

[speedcicle]

Actually, I'm pretty sure I got the brakes for the regular Protege. The contact surface is actually almost a centimeter smaller on both the inner edge and outer edge.

could be if i could recommend pads i would say go with axxis organic pads you can get them from **********.

 

[Dugg E Fresh]

Did you all come to a conclusion on this? I specifically asked for OEM replacements and they looked EXACTLY the same, but the contact patch (at least the marks left on the disc) is smaller and they do feel a little more mushy. Don't know if it has gotten better over time or if I have just gotten used to it. When I pushed to piston for the calipers back in it did push some fluid out the top of the Master Cylinder, does that mean my MC is bad? I have changed brakes in all the cars I've had since I was 16, but I've never heard of pumping the pedal before turning the car on again? Did bleed the front brakes afterward because of the mushyness, although there is no reason I should have to, as no air would have entered the lines just changing the pads.

Thanks for any info.
Edit: please ignore the curbrash

 

[Stormtrooper77]

Did you all come to a conclusion on this? I specifically asked for OEM replacements and they looked EXACTLY the same, but the contact patch (at least the marks left on the disc) is smaller and they do feel a little more mushy. Don't know if it has gotten better over time or if I have just gotten used to it. When I pushed to piston for the calipers back in it did push some fluid out the top of the Master Cylinder, does that mean my MC is bad? I have changed brakes in all the cars I've had since I was 16, but I've never heard of pumping the pedal before turning the car on again? Did bleed the front brakes afterward because of the mushyness, although there is no reason I should have to, as no air would have entered the lines just changing the pads.

Thanks for any info.
Edit: please ignore the curbrash

This is exactly what happened to me. Take in your stock brakes (if you still have them) and show them that they are different. The ones you have on are for the regular Protege. The MSP pads are hard to find at your local auto stores. If you don't want the hassle of looking around then I would suggest online.