Dec. 4 Champion of Champions @ GCFG

ill try and make it out, though the legacy needs lots more duct tape and zip ties b4 it is track-able.
kevin those pana's looks sweet!
 
a muff said:
can I borrow your drill again? ;) I got a torque wrench now, so I've got that1 covered lol

I'll have 'em there.

Rogue Mexican said:
if i can get the money, looks like i'll be racing Kevin's Miata then

Looks like you'll just have to settle on that, lol.
 
You bringin' the turbo Miata, or the usual steed, Kevin?
 
Foolish said:
You bringin' the turbo Miata, or the usual steed, Kevin?

The faster (in a turn), more reliable one. The white one.
 
Haven't heard back from the (potential) babysitter.... But, it's better to have signed up and been unable to make it than it is to be able to make it and not have signed up!
 
quick quesiton...u can pay for membership in cash, right? On the application for it says "do not send cash," but I'm assuming that means if I were sending it directly to SCCA, right?
 
you can take your cash/check and application to the Autocross on Sunday.
 
When's FSP running? morning/afternoon?
I'll be there.
 
I don't believe they have set run groups as per usual, but they're just gonna split all the non CoC cars into 2 groups, w/ the CoC being group 2. I haven't heard anywhere that they're gonna do it by class or not.
 
Cool... thanks Andrew.

Hmmm... Weather dot com says that it'll be raining all day... and somehwhere around 50F..
I guess you have to be dedicated to race/watch. (thumb)

Would my crappy ass stock/street tires(with tread) be better than my race tires(without tread) if it were to rain?
Will they even pass tech with a lil bit of the edges worn(Kevin)?
(see attached pic)
 

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I don't see why they wouldn't pass tech...they've got measurable tread depth and aren't showing cord...
 
Prodigy said:
Cool... thanks Andrew.

Hmmm... Weather dot com says that it'll be raining all day... and somehwhere around 50F..
I guess you have to be dedicated to race/watch. (thumb)

Would my crappy ass stock/street tires(with tread) be better than my race tires(without tread) if it were to rain?
Will they even pass tech with a lil bit of the edges worn(Kevin)?
(see attached pic)

It's a crap-shoot. The will probably pass tech, but will they be better? Only if there is standing water will they be better than your Rs. Now, do you want to change tires in the rain? Is it worth it? dunno.

I'm probably going to be co-driving the TypeR again since we're not sure if we want to risk some of the electronics in the 7 getting soaked. If we're feeling ambitious, we will use some RA1s on the TypeR, but if it's raining hard enough we'll probably just run on his ES100s (street tires). Either way, it's more to see how his new FSB is going to feel.

See you guys Sunday!
 
CRAP! I started a front brake job on the LX. I broke a stud getting the wheel off, bought a new one, got the old one out, but the new one won't go in. I also bought new pads, which I'm having trouble getting in, even though they look like a perfect match to the old ones. On top of all that, I can't get ten ******* consecutive minutes to work on the thing, 'cause Dru's been studying for exams all week, was in exams all day today, and that means I'm on full-time daddy duty.

I got a chance to work on it this afternoon, and after about 10 min. of fiddling with the stud, I figured out that I'm going to have to pull the hub to get it in from the back. I've read where other people here on the forum have replaced thiers without pulling the hub, but I'm guessing that must have been on 5-lug cars, 'cause there's no room to put the stud in on my car. Does anybody know what I have to do to pull the hub? I've seen it done, I think, but that's been a year or so ago, on a Ford of some sort.

After that, I spent another 10 min or so fiddling with the brake pads, unable to get them to line up, plus the little slider dealies at the ends kept popping off. Then, the kid woke up and my play time was over.

If I can't get the hub off, I need to get the car into a shop tomorrow, or I'm not racing Sunday. AAAAARGH!!!
(bang)
 
Rent a slide hammer and hub adapter from Autozone, and you'll need airpower to get the axle nut off. The torque spec for it is over 200 lb/ft. Mine's sitting apart in my driveway right now, waiting to get put back together.
 
Foolish said:
CRAP! I started a front brake job on the LX. I broke a stud getting the wheel off, bought a new one, got the old one out, but the new one won't go in. I also bought new pads, which I'm having trouble getting in, even though they look like a perfect match to the old ones. On top of all that, I can't get ten ******* consecutive minutes to work on the thing, 'cause Dru's been studying for exams all week, was in exams all day today, and that means I'm on full-time daddy duty.

I got a chance to work on it this afternoon, and after about 10 min. of fiddling with the stud, I figured out that I'm going to have to pull the hub to get it in from the back. I've read where other people here on the forum have replaced thiers without pulling the hub, but I'm guessing that must have been on 5-lug cars, 'cause there's no room to put the stud in on my car. Does anybody know what I have to do to pull the hub? I've seen it done, I think, but that's been a year or so ago, on a Ford of some sort.

After that, I spent another 10 min or so fiddling with the brake pads, unable to get them to line up, plus the little slider dealies at the ends kept popping off. Then, the kid woke up and my play time was over.

If I can't get the hub off, I need to get the car into a shop tomorrow, or I'm not racing Sunday. AAAAARGH!!!
(bang)


I can't imagine there isn't room to put them in. If you have the caliper and bracket off, and the rotor off, try turning the wheel and see if it gives you more clearance one way or another. Do you have the pads on the correct side? Make sure you have compressed the caliper piston all the way in also, take off the cap on your brake fluid reservoir to make it easier to retract (but make sure it isn't overfilled and spills over when you retract the piston).

I will be in Athens on Saturday helping with the swaybar install, I can come by if you still need help then.
 
Actually, DON'T do what I said, as you'll likely pull the outside bearing race apart and open up a whole new can o'worms. I think in the manual there's a note on how to do it w/o pulling the hub.
 

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