MPI Tunner Issue

[smp3000]

all depends on which forged internals... JE or CP pistons? Oliver or Pauter rods?

But that is impressive. After the clutch my plans are to transplant everything so I won't have to worry daiily about the thing blowing up in my face.. Even at 10 psi.

Not that I know of. The MSP with forged internals is still making power. Last I heard it was up to 328whp.

I can tell you this from experience, a FS engine with forged goodies is one tough cookie. We had a guy here in a P5 running 20 lbs of boost and nitrous running ( found out later ) with a defective fuel pressure regulator. He blew all of the hoses off the engine, tore a silicone coupling off the intercooler from back pressure and not a single thing happened to the engine. In my books that is one tough engine.

 

[igdrasil]

Not that I know of. The MSP with forged internals is still making power. Last I heard it was up to 328whp.

I can tell you this from experience, a FS engine with forged goodies is one tough cookie. We had a guy here in a P5 running 20 lbs of boost and nitrous running ( found out later ) with a defective fuel pressure regulator. He blew all of the hoses off the engine, tore a silicone coupling off the intercooler from back pressure and not a single thing happened to the engine. In my books that is one tough engine.

Im not doubting about the FS motor potential, I have seen it with my own eyes running 40psi and nitrous....427WHP w/o nitrous....that is no joke!!!!

And yes, Nick posted that the MSP blew something on the racetrack, that car had some noise comming from one piston so he was going to open the head to see what happened. Since then....I dont know.

 

[smp3000]

I'm guessing it was the pauter rods. At that HP level I wouldn't doubt some type of failure with them.. But I could be wrong.

On another note we keep comparing AF's ratios but I just realized I don't know which of you are running WB's and which are running narrow band O2's...

 

[70]

This stuff slightly concerns me.

One side says it works great, but another side is having problems.

I've been thinking about what to go with for so long I'm thinking of doing something totally different and going one-off for engine management because of the inconsistencies here.

The MPI works, but only if it is hooked up right and tuned exactly correct. I am no good with electrical stuff, so I'd have to pay someone for hooking it up. But I don't know if the person I have do it will get it exactly right. Then what?

The tuning side I'm not to concerned with. But, if I have a problem, what then? Is my car rboken, not hooked up right or the tuning?

It seems if you get the MPI, you have to have Nick hook it up and set it up in order for it to run exactly the way it should. I don't think it should be that way.

This is just my opinion though. And I am subscribing to see how this all plays out.

 

[LinuxRacr]

I dont know....MPNick also blew the MSP that had forged internals and the MPI. so....i dont know what to think.

Well, If I remember correctly, if you are talking about Dean's car, the wrong type of Gas was used for the boost he was running, and I think his rings blew. He IS using Oliver Rods, and CP Pistons.

 

[Focus]

This stuff slightly concerns me.

One side says it works great, but another side is having problems.

I've been thinking about what to go with for so long I'm thinking of doing something totally different and going one-off for engine management because of the inconsistencies here.

The MPI works, but only if it is hooked up right and tuned exactly correct. I am no good with electrical stuff, so I'd have to pay someone for hooking it up. But I don't know if the person I have do it will get it exactly right. Then what?

The tuning side I'm not to concerned with. But, if I have a problem, what then? Is my car rboken, not hooked up right or the tuning?

It seems if you get the MPI, you have to have Nick hook it up and set it up in order for it to run exactly the way it should. I don't think it should be that way.

This is just my opinion though. And I am subscribing to see how this all plays out.

This not only applies with the MPI but with any management system. The only reason you hear more of it is because more people are going with the MPI, hence more threads on it.

You often hear the bitching and complaining on how iot does not work, but how often do you hear the same person come back and say they figured it out and it wasn't the MPI itself but rather the way it was programmed or installed, by the owner? You probably won't hear of the many owners that do have it running successfully.

Also, you don't need nick to run it, but he is there to help[ out and support his products, I know because he has spent many hours on the phone trying to explain to me what all the different options are. It takes a lot of patience to tune this unit because small changes take a little time to iron themselves out between the MPI and the stock ECU. You can't expect everything right away. The best way to tune in any situation, is make some some small changes and give the car at least a day to adjust and for you to see the difference.

I don't wanna sound biased, but I too almost got to the point where I just wanted to rip it out of the car. Only because I was impatient and I didn't know how to use it right. I am still trying to get it right, but now I can tell you I wouldn't want to go without it.

 

[Bigg Tim]

I did mine myself. I used the same instructions Nick sent out to everyone and It was simple. I made sure they were hooked up correct and solid and that's it. You can datalog a run and send it to Nick and he can change the map for you so you can see where you want to do the changes. It is work, so don't think you don't have to do anything.

Dean's MSP did not blow. Nick had it tuned for race gas and Dean put in pump gas so he damaged the top of a piston. The car still runs and he can drive it, but it just makes a tapping noise. I don't thnik he drives it around though. No issue with the MPI, the first time it blew was when Dean wanted to up the boost so they did and the motor couldn't handle it. Nothing big to do with the MPI.

 

[Bigg Tim]

This not only applies with the MPI but with any management system. The only reason you hear more of it is because more people are going with the MPI, hence more threads on it.

You often hear the bitching and complaining on how iot does not work, but how often do you hear the same person come back and say they figured it out and it wasn't the MPI itself but rather the way it was programmed or installed, by the owner? You probably won't hear of the many owners that do have it running successfully.

Also, you don't need nick to run it, but he is there to help[ out and support his products, I know because he has spent many hours on the phone trying to explain to me what all the different options are. It takes a lot of patience to tune this unit because small changes take a little time to iron themselves out between the MPI and the stock ECU. You can't expect everything right away. The best way to tune in any situation, is make some some small changes and give the car at least a day to adjust and for you to see the difference.

I don't wanna sound biased, but I too almost got to the point where I just wanted to rip it out of the car. Only because I was impatient and I didn't know how to use it right. I am still trying to get it right, but now I can tell you I wouldn't want to go without it.

Good post, I agree fully. Do the changes a little at a time and wait. Don't try to change the whole map everytime, focus on 1 area at a time and when that's done, move on.

Igdrasil--Don't know about your situation, are you sure you have it hooked up right? You said something about using the anaolg out when you were supposed to use the input. If you are not using the TM, then just remove it fully and only use the MPI and the xtra injectors. I think with you not hooking everything up, it may be causing some issues.

 

[igdrasil]

I cannot remove the TM because its used to fireup the coils and prevent them from burning up when on the ON position.

I have looked thru the wiring 4 times!!!! and everything looks fine.

I dont understand what you mean about the Analog IN/Out and the usage. Correct me if Im wrong:

Analog In = MAF readings going into the MPI
Analog Out = NEW Readings SENT to the Stock ECU

 

[Bigg Tim]

I cannot remove the TM because its used to fireup the coils and prevent them from burning up when on the ON position.

I have looked thru the wiring 4 times!!!! and everything looks fine.

I dont understand what you mean about the Analog IN/Out and the usage. Correct me if Im wrong:

Analog In = MAF readings going into the MPI
Analog Out = NEW Readings SENT to the Stock ECU

Like Nick said, if you are not tuning the stock injectors, then you don't need them hooked up. If you want to monitor the MAF voltage, Tee into the MAF wire on ECU with the anaolg input to see the votlages on the SW. Leave the output disconnected. You can disconnect the TM and get rid of it, you just have to watch and not leave the key on with th engine not running.

Try disconnecting MPI from the MAF wire on the ECU and put the ECU MAF wire back to stock and see if it still does it. That will tell you if it is an issue having them hooked up or hooked up wrong. If that fixes the problem and you want to monitor the MAF voltages through the program, do what I said above. How about some kind of wiring diagram on how you have it set up? That way we can see what's going where.

 

[igdrasil]

Like Nick said, if you are not tuning the stock injectors, then you don't need them hooked up. If you want to monitor the MAF voltage, Tee into the MAF wire on ECU with the anaolg input to see the votlages on the SW. Leave the output disconnected. You can disconnect the TM and get rid of it, you just have to watch and not leave the key on with th engine not running.

Try disconnecting MPI from the MAF wire on the ECU and put the ECU MAF wire back to stock and see if it still does it. That will tell you if it is an issue having them hooked up or hooked up wrong. If that fixes the problem and you want to monitor the MAF voltages through the program, do what I said above. How about some kind of wiring diagram on how you have it set up? That way we can see what's going where.

(bang) What can I do to make you people understand? Is it the way I write the english? let me try again:

1. I have "Tee" to the MAF, THE OUTPUT from the MPI IS DISCONNECTED!!!!!!! Thats why Im reading the MAF readings...WITH THE OUTPUT DISCONNECTED (MPI is direct to the stock ECU) The car runs a lot better...BUT THE MPI STILL WANTS TO SEND FAULTY SIGNALS THRU THE OUTPUT (which is disconnected right now).

2. I will disconnect the MPI soon, its been raining...will rewire it back but not solder! I will use the wire clamps. Because I still have the hope that there is something wrong with my wiring.

 

[Bigg Tim]

(bang) What can I do to make you people understand? Is it the way I write the english? let me try again:

1. I have "Tee" to the MAF, THE OUTPUT from the MPI IS DISCONNECTED!!!!!!! Thats why Im reading the MAF readings...WITH THE OUTPUT DISCONNECTED (MPI is direct to the stock ECU) The car runs a lot better...BUT THE MPI STILL WANTS TO SEND FAULTY SIGNALS THRU THE OUTPUT (which is disconnected right now).

2. I will disconnect the MPI soon, its been raining...will rewire it back but not solder! I will use the wire clamps. Because I still have the hope that there is something wrong with my wiring.

Okay easy there slick, I didn't know you had it like that. There should not be any signals coming out of the output since you are just teed on the MAF wire. I guess it could be, but I can't see how, since you have no values on the Analog map the MPI is not trying to change anything. Try to disconnect the MAF wires all together so the MPI doesn't even see anything in regards to MAF voltages.

 

[igdrasil]

Okay easy there slick, I didn't know you had it like that. There should not be any signals coming out of the output since you are just teed on the MAF wire. I guess it could be, but I can't see how, since you have no values on the Analog map the MPI is not trying to change anything. Try to disconnect the MAF wires all together so the MPI doesn't even see anything in regards to MAF voltages.

I just got the clamps...now im disconnecting the MPI...right now

 

[changedman]

*staying tuned for updates*

 

[igdrasil]

MPI & TM Reinstall: Part 1

Follow the pictures:

1. Install MPI Tunner #13RED to the #71 PCM [12volt key on and run]

2. Install the MPI Tuner wires, #1 black and # 9 green to the #24 PCM [ground] ** not on the pic, but yes...its installed.

3. Find and cut the #88 wire at the PCM. This is the MAF signal wire.

4. Install the MPI Tuner wires, #6 blue, #11 green/yellow, #10 black/white and the green Turbo Module wire to the PCM cut #88 wire that is coming in from the engine side.

5. Install the MPI Tuner wire #18 violet to the PCM side #88 wire.

6. Find the #89 PCM wire. This is your TPS. Install the #7 brown MPI Tuner wire to the #89 PCM wire.

---continued to follow pics---

 

[igdrasil]

MPI & TM Reinstall: Part 2

7. Find and cut the #26 red wire at the PCM. This is the coil driver signal wire for #1 and #4 cylinders.

8. Install the MPI Tuner wire #8 yellow wire to the PCM side of #26 red.

9. Install the MPI Tuner wire #20 white to the long brown Turbo Module wire. Install the short brown to the engine side #26 red.

10. Find and cut the #52 white wire at the PCM. This is the coil driver signal wire for#2 and # cylinders

11. Install the MPI Tuner wire #5 white/red to the PCM side of the #52 white wire.

12. Install the MPI Tuner wire #17 white blue to the long gray Turbo Module. Install the short gray Turbo Module wire to the engine side of the #52 white wire

 

[igdrasil]

MPI & TM Reinstall: Part 3

The shorties is the first pic (short grey and short brown) on step 9 and 12

13. Find and cut the # 60 PCM wire, pink/blue. Install the MPI Tuner wire #22 black/brown to this wire at the engine side. This is done!

This is the O2 sensor output wire for the upstream Oxygen sensor wire. Install one of the white O2 clamp wires here, the other white wire goes to the PCM side of pin #60.
***Replaced with FM clamp

14. Find and cut the #38 Purple/yellow. This is your ECT sensor wire. Install one of the purple coolant clamp wires here, the other purple wire goes to the PCM side of #38.
***NOT ANYMORE

15. Find and cut the #39blue/white wire. This is your ACT. Install one of the yellow ACT clamp wires here, the other yellow wire goes to the PCM side of pin#39.
16. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

17. Install the black Turbo module wire to pin #51, PCM ground.

18. Install the orange Turbo module wire to the orange MPI Tuner orange wire. Use the AMP switch point under global setting/Switch. Adjust this to turn the Turbo module on as you hit higher boost. Set all other Switch point off, RPM,Temp,Deflection are all to be set to the off setting.

19. install the red wire on the Turbo module to the red/white fuel pump feed wire. Do not use the white/red wire, please take your time and look real close. If you make a mistake and use the wrong wire please call Mazda and order new coils, you just fried yours. You will find it by following the wire loom that enters under the front part of the center console. The wire loom will start right above the PCM loom and then run to the front center console under the vents/air duct. This is the only 12 volt key on source that you can use for the red wire in the Turbo module. Do not use any other 12 volt key on source.

20. Find the gray/black MPI Tuner wire#21. This the extra injector driver feed. You will need to run this wire out to the extra injectors.

 

[igdrasil]

hmmm...

I couldnt find in the instructions, what was the BLUE TURBO MODULE WIRE for?(confused)

The green wire is an extension I did from the fuel pump wire...



*I know where it goes, its just not mentioned on the install manual...

 

[acidbug]

Quote:
Originally Posted by LinuxRacr
I would never do this without some type of wideband, and J&S Safeguard.




Ha Ha Ha..Your funny..

But than again..I am on my original motor! (wink)

-Chas

 

[acidbug]

Not to jump on either side but I too, have these same issues at idle and and when the TM turns on/off... I've given up on trying to get the thrusting feeling to go away- and don't see a big issue with it happening- although my GF hates it when it does it and she's in the car lol...

But the idle issue does suck. No matter what I do the idle never remains constant. Lately I've done some tuning to the 1x16 map and have it at about 13's at idle but I'm guessing as usual that after a week or so it will start to lean out again.

i have fixed this problem..

Email me or catch me on AIM!

Chas