What did you pay for your CX-5?

:
'14 Mazda CX-5 GT
new member here, looking at 2020 Signature with a Trailer Hitch, Roof Side Rails, Cargo Cover, Bumper guard, all weather mats, and soft cargo liner. MSRP comes out to $39705. Dealer's best offer is $37200, only $2505/6.3% off MRSP. Not seeing much better from other dealers in Washington. Is that how things are these days? All are saying Signature inventory is thin and the blue color I want has no more incoming for 2020.

Are 2021 models supposed to show up soon?
I'm assuming you're looking at an Eternal Blue Mica? Those are few and far between. When I bought mine earlier this month there were only 4 in the country. Mine is similarly equipped, minus the hitch. I paid $34,800 before TTL. That included the Mazda Loyalty and the 0% deal. If you're not picky about the color and can be patient, there are certainly better deals to be had.
 

sm1ke

Work In Progress..
Moderator
Contributor
:
Canada
:
'18 CX-9 Signature
I was comparing my sale price in 2013 vs 2020, and based on an inflation calculator, the difference was $75.
I think I see what you mean. You are definitely getting a lot more value out of your car when you compare your old 2014 GT with your current 2020 Sig. You're getting upgraded safety tech, AA/ACP, and a much better powertrain, all without having to fuss with modifying the infotainment system or aftermarket bolt-ons/tuning. Not to mention better NVH, a more premium interior, etc.
 
I'm assuming you're looking at an Eternal Blue Mica? Those are few and far between. When I bought mine earlier this month there were only 4 in the country. Mine is similarly equipped, minus the hitch. I paid $34,800 before TTL. That included the Mazda Loyalty and the 0% deal. If you're not picky about the color and can be patient, there are certainly better deals to be had.
For yours at $34800, what was sticker price? Loyalty is$750, right? So since I wouldn't qualify for that, it'd more like 35500 for me.

I'm actually looking for the Deep Crystal Blue. A week or so ago there were a good number in the area but then one by one they were sold. I am very set on that color though, the others just don't do it for me.

Definitely not in a rush on the purchase. Contacted a few dealers in Portland area first and then expanded up in to Washington all the way to Seattle. Compared to the other dealers, some of which had no discount off MRSP and most with no more than the $1500 incentive, the $37100 was noticeably lower than others. I didn't subtract the $500 for doing 0% interest so I guess my number is more like $36600 with that factored in. Still about $1100 above what seems like a possible price.
 
:
Phoenix
:
2020 CX5 signature
Thanks for proving my point. If you paid 34800 today, that would be a bit over $31s000 in 2013 dollars. So unless you're saying you paid 31,300 in 2013 for your GT , your number don't bear out that you paid 'just $75 more' after factoring in 7 years of inflation - as yo put it. Admittedly, I don't know what a GT cost in 2013, mayby it was $31.300.

I'm only saying that unless a GT was $31,300 in 2013, then your assumption that today CX-5 is so wonderful in pricing in pricing because you went up in model for the same price is wrong. However, if you did pay $31,300 in 2013 for your GT, then yes, you are 100% right about your pricing observations of today's Signature

That said, I do believe that the Signature is a remarkable value compared to it's competitors

Not "slicing & dicing number' just bored today
 
First time prospective Mazda buyer, but have a lot of experience driving it during early 80s. Mazda 929 were the same level as Toyota Cressida or higher, makes great cars. Currently own two Acuras - 2006 TL and 2015 MDX, TL had been a great, low maintenance car but not the MDX. Hondas/Acuras are not what they used to be. Always wanted to have a Subaru, but CVT scared me off. Subarus extended their CVT warranty to 10y/100k, but we only drive 60-70k miles in 10 years.

Looking to buy a 2020 CX-5 AWD GT or GTR if I could work out a great price. Closest dealers are in Vancouver, WA or Portland, OR but I can go to Seattle area or to SF Bay Area for right price. Right now, I've read almost all the posts from 2019 and newer. Trying to time the purchase with the current MY clearance or at the end of August to get the best price. I keep my cars for very long time, 15 to 20 years, so the MY doesn't really matter. Turbo is good, but non-turbo is OK, gas mileage doesn't matter, we're not driving as much as we're retired. Low-mileage CPO works as well.

Searching for local inventory, not many GTRs are available, so, GT is perfectly acceptable, save some money. Reading the past experiences shared here, seem like PNW dealers are not really negotiating much, they may have some cartel price. One dealer in Portland has no-haggle price for new and used? Anyway, if someone have reasonable dealer in local area to suggest or share some inside tips, please share. Oh, I'm also new to this PNW area, finally settling down from No Cal. Sorry for lengthy post.
 

mazdadude

ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
:
'16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Oh, I'm trying to stay below $30,000 + TTL, either new or used.
If you have test driven both, you should know what model you need.

You really can not go wrong with either, but from reading your long term stand point and not needing turbo, I would steer you towards the GT.
 
First time prospective Mazda buyer, but have a lot of experience driving it during early 80s. Mazda 929 were the same level as Toyota Cressida or higher, makes great cars. Currently own two Acuras - 2006 TL and 2015 MDX, TL had been a great, low maintenance car but not the MDX. Hondas/Acuras are not what they used to be. Always wanted to have a Subaru, but CVT scared me off. Subarus extended their CVT warranty to 10y/100k, but we only drive 60-70k miles in 10 years.

Looking to buy a 2020 CX-5 AWD GT or GTR if I could work out a great price. Closest dealers are in Vancouver, WA or Portland, OR but I can go to Seattle area or to SF Bay Area for right price. Right now, I've read almost all the posts from 2019 and newer. Trying to time the purchase with the current MY clearance or at the end of August to get the best price. I keep my cars for very long time, 15 to 20 years, so the MY doesn't really matter. Turbo is good, but non-turbo is OK, gas mileage doesn't matter, we're not driving as much as we're retired. Low-mileage CPO works as well.

Searching for local inventory, not many GTRs are available, so, GT is perfectly acceptable, save some money. Reading the past experiences shared here, seem like PNW dealers are not really negotiating much, they may have some cartel price. One dealer in Portland has no-haggle price for new and used? Anyway, if someone have reasonable dealer in local area to suggest or share some inside tips, please share. Oh, I'm also new to this PNW area, finally settling down from No Cal. Sorry for lengthy post.
Fellow PNW member here. If you have access to USAA Car Buying service or Costco Car Buying service, that is one place to start. The best deal I found was with a dealer through USAA and then with some pushing then went to 7.7% off MSRP.

I suspect it's subtle pressuring me to take their high priced dealr, but at least two dealers have told me that the trim & color I want has no more incoming 2020 models and it'll be Oct or Nov before 21's arrive.
 
Hi everyone, looking for advice on haggling. I was contacted today by a local Mazda dealership for a new arrival - a CPO crystal blue mica 2017 GT with PP and around 22K miles on it. I plan to go test drive it two days from now. The car is not even on their website yet but the sales guy mentioned the price around $25,400. On top of this there would be TTL and then Apple CarPlay expenses (planning to self install). What would you recommend me should be my price so that they still make a deal and I don’t get ripped off!
 
If you have test driven both, you should know what model you need.

You really can not go wrong with either, but from reading your long term stand point and not needing turbo, I would steer you towards the GT.
Thanks for the reply. I just had major surgery done, unable to drive for a while. But have read a lot of reviews and owner experiences. I did comparison shopping between a Mazda 929 and Toy Cressida, ended up buying a Cressida in late 80s. I forgot all about this Mazda brand ever since.
GT is perfectly fine for my needs, but added comforts in GTR sounds good if price is right.

Fellow PNW member here. If you have access to USAA Car Buying service or Costco Car Buying service, that is one place to start. The best deal I found was with a dealer through USAA and then with some pushing then went to 7.7% off MSRP.

I suspect it's subtle pressuring me to take their high priced dealr, but at least two dealers have told me that the trim & color I want has no more incoming 2020 models and it'll be Oct or Nov before 21's arrive.
Thanks for the reply. I'm a Costco member, but no access to USAA. I find Costco program laughable, basically an upgraded sales lead. I'll be comfortable for 10% off MSRP but would like more if I could. IMO, if a vehicle has abundant inventory, dealer will sell at any price even at true loss for some reason. Manufactures awards high volume dealers with more new vehicles based on the number of vehicles sold.

Not sure how long the current current $1,500 customer cash will last, but they'll have something comparable if not better for year end clearance. Stock prices are back up but most others are still in deep hole, people are not opening their wallet.
 
:
Phoenix
:
2020 CX5 signature
I'm just realizing the deal I got, the dealer must have taken a bath - I paid less for my 2020 Signature than 2019's are going for here - or at least what they[re being listed for.
 
Hi everyone, looking for advice on haggling. I was contacted today by a local Mazda dealership for a new arrival - a CPO crystal blue mica 2017 GT with PP and around 22K miles on it. I plan to go test drive it two days from now. The car is not even on their website yet but the sales guy mentioned the price around $25,400. On top of this there would be TTL and then Apple CarPlay expenses (planning to self install). What would you recommend me should be my price so that they still make a deal and I don’t get ripped off!
Please advise. I am also meeting two other dealerships during the weekend for similar config cars with 30K miles. They are listed at 25K.
 
Okay, this should be fun ... let’s learn from my mistakes. Bring the pain!

Three weeks ago, I bought my first brand new car (and just my 3rd car in the past 21 years — cars were never that important to me, clearly). Pre-apocalypse I had been planning on buying something new this year; but come March plans quickly changed. And then come July, they did again ... when my prior ride (which I’d long since stopped pouring money into) finally threw a rusted off caliper and took the brake line with it. Suddenly, I had a car that couldn’t stop, so I had to start shopping for that replacement.

I had zero idea what I wanted. Buy new? Buy used? CPO? Lease? Not a clue. Just knew I wanted something relatively new (2017 and up) that I wouldn’t have to worry about for a while. I didn’t even know if I wanted a sedan or CUV (I was leaning towards a mid-size sedan because of the better performance and gas mileage (especially with the hybrids) and the presence of a secure trunk; but also considering small SUVs for the easier in and out, and loading of dogs and cargo, and possibility of crashing in the back when I was road-tripping and didn’t want to burn time and money finding a hotel for just five or six hours...

Step one: rent a car for a week.

Step two: Take care of prior obligations that weekend.

Step three: Start scouring the internets in every remaining waking moment for educational resources to help make the above decisions and narrow down my choices ... get a bunch of different insurance quotes so I could factor those variables into my decision making process ... and run credit reports.

Step four: Visit every damn dealership in 30 miles ... except GM — f—k those guys.

Figure out what my options are. Explain I’m not interested in talking money yet; I just want to sit in a bunch of different cars and SUVs, in as many different trims as possible (generally, starting with the base trim, moving up to the most popular mid-level trim, and then the fully loaded one for each model). Figure out which ones I can quickly rule out based simply on aesthetics or ergonomics and which ones I’d like to consider test driving (I wanted to keep the latter group to four or five).

I wound up test driving 3. I had a clear favorite by this time, so step five was to go back home and get back on the internets, run more numbers, scour reviews, and figure out why I SHOULDN’T buy the car I was leaning towards. At this point, realized I’d left one contender out of my search because the closest dealership was further away then the others. [Spoiler Alert: it was Mazda]. One quick look inside and right away I knew I had a new favorite. But, dumb ass that I was, I’d forgotten my license so couldn’t take one for a test drive. After doing my sit in all the different trims, play with the gadgets thing, Sport (nice, but lacking), Touring (not bad), GTR (very nice) ... Signature — Nope, no Signatures on the lot ... I had no choice but to make a one hour round-trip to retrieve my damn wallet.

Well, I return and test drive the GT(PP) I ultimately bought. I didn’t want to test drive the GTR unless the GT felt as anemic to me as the Nissan Rogue. I’ve gotten enough fast driving awards in my life. I’d already figured out both my fuel and insurance costs would be significantly higher with the bigger engine considering my driving history (I’m a professional skydiver, base jumper, and fly really fast wings ... I’ve never raced professionally but I can’t help but imagine every back road as a rally stage and every congested freeway as my own personal Talladega ... and none of the shitty cars I’ve owned or been provided by over the years slowed me down much. Definitely the GT isn’t all that quick off the line but it isn’t annoyingly slow; and ‘feels’ perhaps more responsive than it really is. It’s fun. I can make it work. So no need to spoil it by teasing myself with the turbo. And, I like the colors better. The GTR was parchment. Ugh.

Step six. Seven? Whatever: I like the car. They know I like the car.

Oh, the 2020 has CarPlay. Hmm.

I get some specifically ‘Out the Door’ quotes (new vs lease, and also on the 2019 CPO out front). Cash buyer.

Decide, f—- it, let them run my credit for the 0% thing. If that goes through, I don’t have to waste time figuring out which of my banks will give me the best deal. If I buy used, I’ll still have to do that. And the insurance is higher (for some reason). Buy used or lease, I’ll be paying interest. Lease, and I’ll have to sweat over mileage. Gah! Easier to buy new! And I haven’t slept in four days, and my rental car is due back the next evening (or I’ll have to rent it another week — that’s like a wasted car payment!)

Approval goes through. Avoid the temptation to sign papers right then and head home to once again run all the numbers, figure out why I shouldn’t do what I’m now convinced I’m going to do, and set up an insurance policy with the specific VIN.

I get some price advice from Consumer Reports, KBB, Edmunds, True Car. (Unfortunately didn’t discover this forum yet, or the ones on reddit). Think I know what a fair price is. Still fuzzy though if the prices they give include the doc fees or not. I had assumed not. I might have messed up there?

So I have the dealer’s offer from the day before. I ask them to nix the $199 VIN etch. Then I briefly explain the research I did and make what I felt was a reasonable counter-offer. They come back with a number that accepts about 80% of the discount I asked for. It’s in line with the numbers I have; better than (my understanding of what is) average. I like the car. Figure they likely aren’t making anything on the back end since I’m at 0% and declining all the extended warranty / gap coverages etc ... and will be doing my own oil changes and such.

Maybe I can save a few more bucks if I make a big show of leaving unless they give me what I want, but I just can’t be that a—hole on that day.

I visited a lot of dealerships in a furious three days and met a lot of different sales people. I met a bunch of d—-s and two who I really liked and would liked to have bought a car from. I felt these guys played me straight (or at least, they were much better at making me believe that than their competitors) and didn’t jump on me from the moment I entered the place to upsell this and upsell that.

Lol — even after I bought the thing I couldn’t get them to try very hard to sell me after-market parts I actually wanted (sun shade, cargo tray, etc.)

Also, there was the matter of returning my rental car ... which meant someone had to follow me 30 minutes to the town I had to leave my rental ... and then let me drive them back to the dealership. Maybe that’s a normal service included when buying a car (free delivery?) but it was helpful and appreciated none the same. So, f— it. I paid what I did.

Now ... understanding it was only the 8th day of the month, and 3 months into a hard shutdown and we’d just started opening up again ... and I didn’t really have time to walk away and think it over for a week or two or wait till ... well, whenever you all might have known would be a better time to buy ....

I bought a brand new 2020 CX-5 AWD GT with PP (Deep Crystal Blue Mica and Black) in Hunterdon County, NJ — where I work and where my previous car decided to finally die at an inopportune time.

[I have a house in NY but an apartment here. I guess I could have bought and registered the car in either state (which meant I also had to shop insurance in both places, and balance NY’s higher sales tax versus NJ’s higher doc fees) ... it was all enough to make my head 🤯.]

4 Miles on the Odometer when I started my test drive!

Sticker MSRP was $34,435.

$31,710 GT-AWD
+ $1,625 options (1GT Premium Package)
+ $1,100 delivery
= $34,435 Total

Including their “Mandatory” dealer doc fee of $449, and after just that one round of offer / counter-offers, I agreed to the somewhat random price of $32,967.30 (before state tax, title, tag, and tire fees).

I wasn’t eligible for any rebates and had nothing left to trade in. I financed through Mazda Financial at 0% for 60 months (with the no payments for 90 days).

I focused on the out the door price; as opposed to monthly payments or whatever. If I paid way too much, it’s because I didn’t understand what all makes up the “fair market price” ranges in the sources I looked to. Such as, do those include the doc fees?

TL : DR

2020 Mazda CX-5 AWD GT with GT Premium Package • Deep Crystal Blue Mica & Black
4 Miles on the Odometer.

$34,435 MSRP

Paid $32,967.30 (+ New Jersey Tax, Tag, Title, Tire)

🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Last edited:

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Hi everyone, looking for advice on haggling. I was contacted today by a local Mazda dealership for a new arrival - a CPO crystal blue mica 2017 GT with PP and around 22K miles on it. I plan to go test drive it two days from now. The car is not even on their website yet but the sales guy mentioned the price around $25,400. On top of this there would be TTL and then Apple CarPlay expenses (planning to self install). What would you recommend me should be my price so that they still make a deal and I don’t get ripped off!
Based on Kelly Blue Book, fair market price range for a CPO 2017 CX-5 GT AWD with Premium Package is $21,351 ~ $23,896. Find out if it’s FWD or AWD which would affect the selling price too. But for a used CX-5, 2017 is a good MY to get since it’s the last MY doesn’t have cylinder deactivation on 2.5L which may have potentialLu long-term reliability problem IMO. And CPO has a longer powertrain warranty and othe better benefits than a new car.

For $25,000, I’d also check the possibility of getting a new CX-5 even with a lower trims.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Okay, this should be fun ... let’s learn from my mistakes. Bring the pain!

Three weeks ago, I bought my first brand new car (and just my 3rd car in the past 21 years — cars were never that important to me, clearly). Pre-apocalypse I had been planning on buying something new this year; but come March plans quickly changed. And then come July, they did again ... when my prior ride (which I’d long since stopped pouring money into) finally threw a rusted off caliper and took the brake line with it. Suddenly, I had a car that couldn’t stop, so I had to start shopping for that replacement.

I had zero idea what I wanted. Buy new? Buy used? CPO? Lease? Not a clue. Just knew I wanted something relatively new (2017 and up) that I wouldn’t have to worry about for a while. I didn’t even know if I wanted a sedan or CUV (I was leaning towards a mid-size sedan because of the better performance and gas mileage (especially with the hybrids) and the presence of a secure trunk; but also considering small SUVs for the easier in and out, and loading of dogs and cargo, and possibility of crashing in the back when I was road-tripping and didn’t want to burn time and money finding a hotel for just five or six hours...

Step one: rent a car for a week.

Step two: Take care of prior obligations that weekend.

Step three: Start scouring the internets in every remaining waking moment for educational resources to help make the above decisions and narrow down my choices ... get a bunch of different insurance quotes so I could factor those variables into my decision making process ... and run credit reports.

Step four: Visit every damn dealership in 30 miles ... except GM — f—k those guys.

Figure out what my options are. Explain I’m not interested in talking money yet; I just want to sit in a bunch of different cars and SUVs, in as many different trims as possible (generally, starting with the base trim, moving up to the most popular mid-level trim, and then the fully loaded one for each model). Figure out which ones I can quickly rule out based simply on aesthetics or ergonomics and which ones I’d like to consider test driving (I wanted to keep the latter group to four or five).

I wound up test driving 3. I had a clear favorite by this time, so step five was to go back home and get back on the internets, run more numbers, scour reviews, and figure out why I SHOULDN’T buy the car I was leaning towards. At this point, realized I’d left one contender out of my search because the closest dealership was further away then the others. [Spoiler Alert: it was Mazda]. One quick look inside and right away I knew I had a new favorite. But, dumb ass that I was, I’d forgotten my license so couldn’t take one for a test drive. After doing my sit in all the different trims, play with the gadgets thing, Sport (nice, but lacking), Touring (not bad), GTR (very nice) ... Signature — Nope, no Signatures on the lot ... I had no choice but to make a one hour round-trip to retrieve my damn wallet.

Well, I return and test drive the GT(PP) I ultimately bought. I didn’t want to test drive the GTR unless the GT felt as anemic to me as the Nissan Rogue. I’ve gotten enough fast driving awards in my life. I’d already figured out both my fuel and insurance costs would be significantly higher with the bigger engine considering my driving history (I’m a professional skydiver, base jumper, and fly really fast wings ... I’ve never raced professionally but I can’t help but imagine every back road as a rally stage and every congested freeway as my own personal Talladega ... and none of the shitty cars I’ve owned or been provided by over the years slowed me down much. Definitely the GT isn’t all that quick off the line but it isn’t annoyingly slow; and ‘feels’ perhaps more responsive than it really is. It’s fun. I can make it work. So no need to spoil it by teasing myself with the turbo. And, I like the colors better. The GTR was parchment. Ugh.

Step six. Seven? Whatever: I like the car. They know I like the car.

Oh, the 2020 has CarPlay. Hmm.

I get some specifically ‘Out the Door’ quotes (new vs lease, and also on the 2019 CPO out front). Cash buyer.

Decide, f—- it, let them run my credit for the 0% thing. If that goes through, I don’t have to waste time figuring out which of my banks will give me the best deal. If I buy used, I’ll still have to do that. And the insurance is higher (for some reason). Buy used or lease, I’ll be paying interest. Lease, and I’ll have to sweat over mileage. Gah! Easier to buy new! And I haven’t slept in four days, and my rental car is due back the next evening (or I’ll have to rent it another week — that’s like a wasted car payment!)

Approval goes through. Avoid the temptation to sign papers right then and head home to once again run all the numbers, figure out why I shouldn’t do what I’m now convinced I’m going to do, and set up an insurance policy with the specific VIN.

I get some price advice from Consumer Reports, KBB, Edmunds, True Car. (Unfortunately didn’t discover this forum yet, or the ones on reddit). Think I know what a fair price is. Still fuzzy though if the prices they give include the doc fees or not. I had assumed not. I might have messed up there?

So I have the dealer’s offer from the day before. I ask them to nix the $199 VIN etch. Then I briefly explain the research I did and make what I felt was a reasonable counter-offer. They come back with a number that accepts about 80% of the discount I asked for. It’s in line with the numbers I have; better than (my understanding of what is) average. I like the car. Figure they likely aren’t making anything on the back end since I’m at 0% and declining all the extended warranty / gap coverages etc ... and will be doing my own oil changes and such.

Maybe I can save a few more bucks if I make a big show of leaving unless they give me what I want, but I just can’t be that a—hole on that day.

I visited a lot of dealerships in a furious three days and met a lot of different sales people. I met a bunch of d—-s and two who I really liked and would liked to have bought a car from. I felt these guys played me straight (or at least, they were much better at making me believe that than their competitors) and didn’t jump on me from the moment I entered the place to upsell this and upsell that.

Lol — even after I bought the thing I couldn’t get them to try very hard to sell me after-market parts I actually wanted (sun shade, cargo tray, etc.)

Also, there was the matter of returning my rental car ... which meant someone had to follow me 30 minutes to the town I had to leave my rental ... and then let me drive them back to the dealership. Maybe that’s a normal service included when buying a car (free delivery?) but it was helpful and appreciated none the same. So, f— it. I paid what I did.

Now ... understanding it was only the 8th day of the month, and 3 months into a hard shutdown and we’d just started opening up again ... and I didn’t really have time to walk away and think it over for a week or two or wait till ... well, whenever you all might have known would be a better time to buy ....

I bought a brand new 2020 CX-5 AWD GT with PP (Deep Crystal Blue Mica and Black) in Hunterdon County, NJ — where I work and where my previous car decided to finally die at an inopportune time.

[I have a house in NY but an apartment here. I guess I could have bought and registered the car in either state (which meant I also had to shop insurance in both places, and balance NY’s higher sales tax versus NJ’s higher doc fees) ... it was all enough to make my head 🤯.]

4 Miles on the Odometer when I started my test drive!

Sticker MSRP was $34,435.

$31,710 GT-AWD
+ $1,625 options (1GT Premium Package)
+ $1,100 delivery
= $34,435 Total

Including their “Mandatory” dealer doc fee of $449, and after just that one round of offer / counter-offers, I agreed to the somewhat random price of $32,967.30 (before state tax, title, tag, and tire fees).

I wasn’t eligible for any rebates and had nothing left to trade in. I financed through Mazda Financial at 0% for 60 months (with the no payments for 90 days).

I focused on the out the door price; as opposed to monthly payments or whatever. If I paid way too much, it’s because I didn’t understand what all makes up the “fair market price” ranges in the sources I looked to. Such as, do those include the doc fees?

TL : DR

2020 Mazda CX-5 AWD GT with GT Premium Package • Deep Crystal Blue Mica & Black
4 Miles on the Odometer.

$34,435 MSRP

Paid $32,967.30 (+ New Jersey Tax, Tag, Title, Tire)

🤷🏻‍♂️
Although it seems you’ve only got 4.3% off from MSRP, but I enjoyed reading your story! Since you seem to keep your car for as long as you can like me, please pay attention to any related TSBs or recalls on cylinder deactivation with your 2.5L.
 
:
Southwest Ohio
:
'19 CX-5 diesel
Okay, this should be fun ... let’s learn from my mistakes. Bring the pain! .......
Firstly, I enjoyed your writing style and story. Thanks for taking the time to tell it. :) I particularly liked the part about how you went into this open minded, not even knowing what you want and through it all Mazda was the choice.

As far as pricing goes ... meh, maybe you could've gotten a better price given enough time and energy but based on the circumstances, only you can weigh out the value vs time equation for YOU. Seems like you certainly did a great job quickly researching and then executing a logical game plan to get it done.

I've owned exclusively Mazda since 2015 and love the brand. Hopefully your experience will be the same.
 
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