CX-5 Aftermarket Pads and Rotors

[RedBaron]

The only hiccups were around getting the electronic parking brake into maintainence mode and getting the pads fitted into the carrier. The service manual process for maintainence mode (for 2018, I have 2020, maybe it's changed) just didn't work for me or perhaps I misinterpreted it. I found a video on youtube and followed that with no problem.

What was different between the methods? Or maybe post a link to the video?

 

[stickerbush]

What was different between the methods? Or maybe post a link to the video?

Here's what the service manual says:

1.Switch the ignition ON (engine off).
2.Release the electric parking brake.
3.Switch the ignition off, and then switch the ignition ON (engine off) within 5 s while maintaining the following conditions.
• Press the electric parking brake switch.
• Depress the accelerator pedal fully.

What the video showed and what worked was to turn the ignition ON, press and hold the electric parking brake switch and press and hold the accelerator pedal fully and then press the Start switch 3 times.

 

[N7turbo]

The factory pads, like I think most all cars these days are full ceramic and they dust very little compared to full semi's which dirty wheels noticeably.

My '23 CX-5 Turbo gets a lot of brown-colored dust, very noticeable on the black wheels. I'm pretty sure they aren't ceramic and thought they were an organic type.

 

[CycleChris]

My '23 CX-5 Turbo gets a lot of brown-colored dust, very noticeable on the black wheels. I'm pretty sure they aren't ceramic and thought they were an organic type.

Could that just be rotor flash from us washing the crap out of our babys?
Rain will do that also. I use a product called Hyde’s Serum that is a spray on rust inhibitor, use after washing the wheel to keep that surface rust down after washing wheels.

 

[N7turbo]

Could that just be rotor flash from us washing the crap out of our babys?
Rain will do that also. I use a product called Hyde’s Serum that is a spray on rust inhibitor, use after washing the wheel to keep that surface rust down after washing wheels.

I think that's a separate problem, but I'm interested. Does that have any effect on the brake pads?

 

[CycleChris]

I think that's a separate problem, but I'm interested. Does that have any effect on the brake pads?

Not that I can detect. Im a detailer and I use it on mine every week. It’s pretty common in use. P&S Brake buster wheel cleaner has a rust inhibitor built in also.

 

[N7turbo]

Not that I can detect. Im a detailer and I use it on mine every week. It’s pretty common in use. P&S Brake buster wheel cleaner has a rust inhibitor built in also.

That would be convenient. My personal wheels never need more than car soap like everything else. I have Rapid Decon which is great but only comes out for other (neglected) cars.

 

[200955]

Curious if Power Stop products are good. It's been a minute since I've DIY'ed brakes and I'm used to what my local Napa or Autozone would have in stock. I've never used Power Stop stuff but the reviews seem good. Here's a link to the kit I want to buy:

More Information for POWER STOP KOE6967

Anybody with experience with these have any opinions? $125 shipped seems insanely reasonable to me.

I use complete kits (front, rear, all) on all my vehicles including my Nissan Frontier, CX-5 and my son's 2014 Mazda 6. I have never encountered issues and find the quality to be "top drawer" for all their components including the pad guides (stainless) and pads themselves that never really have any burrs on their ears. The design of the pads ensure great contact with less noise due to the ramping on either end and I find the center groove a bit wider than most in order to clear pad dust. Like you, I want a quality products for a fair price and I find these brake systems from Rock Auto to be cheaper (even with the dollar difference US to CAN) than what a can buy here in Canada. I do wish the shipping costs were a bit lower but even that seems reasonable.

 

[macker]

I use complete kits (front, rear, all) on all my vehicles including my Nissan Frontier, CX-5 and my son's 2014 Mazda 6. I have never encountered issues and find the quality to be "top drawer" for all their components including the pad guides (stainless) and pads themselves that never really have any burrs on their ears. The design of the pads ensure great contact with less noise due to the ramping on either end and I find the center groove a bit wider than most in order to clear pad dust. Like you, I want a quality products for a fair price and I find these brake systems from Rock Auto to be cheaper (even with the dollar difference US to CAN) than what a can buy here in Canada. I do wish the shipping costs were a bit lower but even that seems reasonable.

That's been my experience as well with Powerstop products. I'm about to install their pads and fully coated rotors on the rear of my 18 CX-5. I have them on my 13 Lincoln MKX (fronts) and my 11 GT500 (rears) - slotted & Drilled rotors and ceramic pads. I follow their break in instructions and have never had an issue.

 

[sm1ke]

Not that I can detect. Im a detailer and I use it on mine every week. It’s pretty common in use. P&S Brake buster wheel cleaner has a rust inhibitor built in also.

Sent you a PM for an off-topic question.

 

[AL Cx5]

I put Bosch rotors on our 09 Accord hopping they would not warp. Withing 6 months the front brakes were pulsing from warped rotors. Before I replaced the rotors we sold the car and bought a 24 CX5 T.

The CX 5 brakes were squeaking after a few hundred miles. I greased the pads and still squeaked. Rather than loose 1/2 day or more messing with the dealer I bought new pads and rotors at 2500 miles.

I have Power Stops pads and rotors on the rear of my 2500 truck. They are just fine. I feel like they are over priced..

On the CX 5 I went with R1 Concepts kit. Drilled and slotted rotors and pads. The little SUV stops on a dime, low dusting, no squeaking. We have 8K mi them to date. Bought from Rock Auto.

I saved my OEM rotors. They only had 2,500 miles on them and I might use them down the road..

These part numbers are for the turbos. I learned the T has slightly larger front brakes. I haven't check the rears....

 

[GFrosty]

Rain will do that also. I use a product called Hyde’s Serum that is a spray on rust inhibitor, use after washing the wheel to keep that surface rust down after washing wheels.

One thing I do, following washing the car: take a high-speed drive for 10+ minutes or so. Helps ensure all remaining water droplets I might have missed get eliminated. Keeps that post-washing rusting to a bare minimum, at least in my experience.

 

[CycleChris]

Yeah but then you have both rotor rust flash and brake dust backon the wheels you just cleaned, the Hydes serum brake rotor spray will keep the rust flash off the wheels when you drive after the wash. I use the ryobi hand blower to blow out the mirrors, door handles, grill and cargo door to get as much water out. Make sure the drainholes in the lower part of the doors are clear and drip out when I do the door sill area wipedown. The grill holds a ton of water, the roof rack mount covers hold soap and after the wash, the blower is your friend here. no matter what, you will have drippout from the cargo door on each rear quarter panel. I keep a buff towel and a eyeglass cleaner bottle filled with my favorite detail spray, Armor Amplify, in the door pocket to remove these water spots before they begin to etch.

 

[N7turbo]

I do the same as @CycleChris, but in addition, I open the liftgate a foot or two and leave it that way for a while. May not be possible without the powered version.

 

[CycleChris]

Yep, I must open and close it 10 times trying to get out as much water as possible.

 

[AL Cx5]

Yep, I must open and close it 10 times trying to get out as much water as possible.

Gosh, I assumed Mazda coats the inside of the body panels. From the areas I've taken apart on my 2024 apart they are coated. The frame paint is sub par for sure but is beefy. Do you dry your subframes after washing...

I hope Mazda does an equal or better than Dodge did on my 2006 2500. It will be 19 years old in January and no sign of rust through and virtually no rust on the frame. I've taken the door panels off numerus times, no sigh of rust. It has always been parked outside. We get +50" of rain a year and have a heavy canopy of trees in this area. Some days it gets wet 2 to 3 times. Humidity 60 to 70% during the day ant 90% at night. Almost tropical...

You sound just a touch OCD about washing/drying your Mazda. With that attention to detail, I'm going to try Armor Amplify! I'm going to clay bar it next wash to get organic material that was in the air this spring off the car. I'll wax and then detail with AA. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Jmaz]

I drive mine into a heated vacuum chamber to quickly extract all moisture. I mean, seriously, what do you folks do when it rains for days on end or there's 6 inches of snow on the ground and there's salty slush on the roads and the underside of the car and it's covered in dirty white salt. Or do you live in a location that avoids those problems.

 

[vertex]

I completed the R&R of rear pads and rotors on my 2020 GT yesterday. It took me 4 hours but I am old and slow. The only hiccups were around getting the electronic parking brake into maintainence mode and getting the pads fitted into the carrier. The service manual process for maintainence mode (for 2018, I have 2020, maybe it's changed) just didn't work for me or perhaps I misinterpreted it. I found a video on youtube and followed that with no problem. Getting the pads into the carrier was fiddly, finally got then installed by installing the inboard pad before reinstalling the carrier and then installing the outboard pad.

The old rotors and pads were very deeply scored, presumably from a small rock that got lodged between the pad and rotor. I have driven on gravel roads and on roads covered in snow and ice that were sanded. I expected to find a rock lodged into the pad but instead there was a deep score in the pad to match the score in the rotor.

Feels good to save $600 over what my dealer wanted to charge for this work.

View attachment 324052

I also have the ring of rust outside the rotor hats. I don't know why Mazda didn't let the brake pads cover that area

 

[badanth]

I drive mine into a heated vacuum chamber to quickly extract all moisture. I mean, seriously, what do you folks do when it rains for days on end or there's 6 inches of snow on the ground and there's salty slush on the roads and the underside of the car and it's covered in dirty white salt. Or do you live in a location that avoids those problems.

I've only been on the forum a few months and consider myself to be a car enthusiast. But I tell you since my days on the Passat/Audi forums I've never seen so much fluff!

 

[AL Cx5]

I've only been on the forum a few months and consider myself to be a car enthusiast. But I tell you since my days on the Passat/Audi forums I've never seen so much fluff!

I was scolded by moderators several times for such language. It was suggested to be encouraging.

I mostly hang on a Hemi Racing FB page and Cummins truck forum. As a moderator I delete fluff. If they persist, I band them. I get it, this is not about racing, making power or heavy duty engines.

After sifting through the fluff, there is a good amount of good tech stuff.

Further, I've introduced several mods to improve FE and power with back up data. Its fallen on deaf ears....

I'm encouraging folks to consider these mods...


Maybe we can go back to brakes and such.?