On new engines, I run very easy through 2 heat cycles to set the piston rings. And very the rpm under light load. I didn't go WOT until +500 miles. At 6K mi, I changed the oil, I couldn't see any oil consumption on the dip stick.
Next oil change, I'll grab an oil sample and send it in for testing. This will be my base line. I'll do the same with the trans at that time. Cost is about $35.00. And you can cut the oil filter if you are OCD, spread the filter out and look for shinny metal of any kind. I've done that many times....
I've broke in 4 or 5 race engines over the past 10 years the same way. It's really important to very the RPM during break in under light load. On these engines, we have the car on jack stands and engage the trans and spin the tires. Then we strap it to a chassis dyno and spin the drum. First easy and build up to a full pull at WOT.
Going to max RPM once or twice won't hurt it and may even set the rings. This is how I broke in our turbo 2.5l. If it is going let loose, NOW is the time, while on warranty.
BTW, the bottom end on these little 2.5l engines is stout. They have forged crank shafts and connecting rods. That is above and beyond what's need at this RPM and power level. We run that combo to 1200 HP and 8000 RPM. Above that we move on to billet/forged parts....
I have over 265,000 miles on my diesel truck used to tow a car hauler. I've never add oil between oil changes, 10K mi and the oil level never changes. This truck has seen WOT over the years as well. I have run oil sample tests as well. Towing it loads the engine and it runs from 10 to 30 PSI boost all day long on trips....