CorkSport springs with Bilstein shocks - *installation note*

Assuming springs do the same thing as sway bars is mixing Apple's and oranges. If springs controled body roll, then we would never have sway bars.
Swaybars are not just to control body roll, despite the way they are advertised. And they affect spring rates. They are a torsion bar. The moment you hit any bump asymmetrically (like most bumps unless they are speed bumps) the bar will act as an additional spring.

What do sway bars do?


Also:

 
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Assuming springs do the same thing as sway bars is mixing Apple's and oranges. If springs controled body roll, then we would never have sway bars. If you are happy with the springs and oem sway bars enjoy.

My experience with Megan Racing bars with urethane bushings is night amd day difference over OEM with stock springs and dampeners or coilovers.

I dont live is an area that treats the roads in the winter heavily with chemicals. My Accord had coilovers that were due for replacement after 6 years or 60k. Rebuild consists of replacing the dampness. Not a big deal. Or replace the entire unit.

I'll give BC Racing support is A+. They have more than gone the extra mile to get me happy. Today I requested either taller rear spring or longer spring perches. They agreed to send longer springs. I only want to lower 1.75 to 2" and the original springs lowered 2" or more....

Early they sent a second set of dampers and coil.over top plate assembly to get me happy with a noise in the strut. Now I have a spare set of front dampers...

30 different adjustments on the dampness.
I am looking at getting the Megan bars and was wondering what bushings you used and did they still fit the stock mounting brackets?
 
I am looking at getting the Megan bars and was wondering what bushings you used and did they still fit the stock mounting brackets?
I bought Prothane sway bar bushings. 1" front and 19 mm rear. Double check before buying.

The fronts bolted in without modifying the bracket.

The rear mounting studs are spaced further than the mounting bracket slots by about 1/4". I cut the ends off the bracket so they would fit over the studs. Then put the OEM bracket on top of the Prothane bushing/bracket and tightened. The OEM bracket serves as a very large wash and structural support. I drilled out the OEM bracket for the grease fitting. I rattle canned, painted, the exposed metal. Yes it looks funky but is hidden from view. In fact the fronts are way under the body as well.

I didn't take any pictures but you will get the idea when you get the rear OEM bracket and compare to the Prothane.

I have almost 6K on this set up. No clunks and responsive steering. If I didn't share this car with my wire, I would run the rears on the second, firmer setting. I would do it again.
 
I bought Prothane sway bar bushings. 1" front and 19 mm rear. Double check before buying.

The fronts bolted in without modifying the bracket.

The rear mounting studs are spaced further than the mounting bracket slots by about 1/4". I cut the ends off the bracket so they would fit over the studs. Then put the OEM bracket on top of the Prothane bushing/bracket and tightened. The OEM bracket serves as a very large wash and structural support. I drilled out the OEM bracket for the grease fitting. I rattle canned, painted, the exposed metal. Yes it looks funky but is hidden from view. In fact the fronts are way under the body as well.

I didn't take any pictures but you will get the idea when you get the rear OEM bracket and compare to the Prothane.

I have almost 6K on this set up. No clunks and responsive steering. If I didn't share this car with my wire, I would run the rears on the second, firmer setting. I would do it again.

Question; I ordered a 19mm universal kit for the rear. But for the front 25mm kit there are listing's for "A" type and "B" type brackets. Does it matter which bracket style is get?
 
Question; I ordered a 19mm universal kit for the rear. But for the front 25mm kit there are listing's for "A" type and "B" type brackets. Does it matter which bracket style is get?
Gray5ive, I have type A on my Megan Racing sway bars. As mentioned, the rears required that I cut the ends to fit the studs. I put the OEM brackets over the Prothane to secure. The car is aproaching 10k mi. These have about 9k mi on them. LOVE the way the car handles.

Tip: install 90 degree grease zerks and point them inboard towards a hole in the subframe. Then use them to over grease with silicon grease. My bushings started to squeak after 7k mi. I greased the bushings and no more squeaks...

Here is a link on what I'm using.

https://www.suspension.com/191165
 
Gray5ive, I have type A on my Megan Racing sway bars. As mentioned, the rears required that I cut the ends to fit the studs. I put the OEM brackets over the Prothane to secure. The car is aproaching 10k mi. These have about 9k mi on them. LOVE the way the car handles.

Tip: install 90 degree grease zerks and point them inboard towards a hole in the subframe. Then use them to over grease with silicon grease. My bushings started to squeak after 7k mi. I greased the bushings and no more squeaks...

Here is a link on what I'm using.

https://www.suspension.com/191165
My front bar is a 25.4mm so I guess it would need that size in the type A bracket or would the 22mm in your link work ok?
 
My front bar is a 25.4mm so I guess it would need that size in the type A bracket or would the 22mm in your link work ok?
OOPS, my front sway bar is 25.4 mm or 1". I'm using Prothane 6-1122 Red 1" Front Sway Bar Bushing

I bought a selection of grease zerks on Amazon so I could find the correct diameter and angle for ease of greasing. Turns out this was a good move...

GL!
 
OOPS, my front sway bar is 25.4 mm or 1". I'm using Prothane 6-1122 Red 1" Front Sway Bar Bushing

I bought a selection of grease zerks on Amazon so I could find the correct diameter and angle for ease of greasing. Turns out this was a good move...

GL!
Another question is where did you get your Megan front sway bar? Everything i see for the front just says 13-17 cx5.
 
Any idea how much these weigh? Much more than stock?
I didn't weigh any of the SBs.

They are stiffer than OEM and can can go stiffer by moving the end links to an inboard hole. The stiffer setting was to stiff for my wife.

With urethane bushings and the softest setting reduce body roll a good bit.

I don't notice much difference between stock and better SBs and lowered coilovers until we make a quick lane change to avoid something. Then it handles with precision.

EDIT: the car has very little pitch and roll making it a dream driving down the interstate. OEM suspension was to soft and rolled to much for my liking. We have compromised on the coilover settings. Seven clicks from softest seems to satisfy both drivers. That is only 7 clicks firmer out of 30!
 
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