2017 CX-5 Blown Rear Diff

I thought so too, but I've checked almost every yard in my area, (MD) ~100 mile radius and most don't even have any and the ones that do are anywhere from 1K to 1,500. The 1500 gives the best warranty and lowest miles. They had 2, one 28k and the other 18k.

Is there a shortage on MAZDA rear diffs?
When Chris_Top_Her got his rear differential from LKQ few years ago, it was under $500 with shipping. The price for the used major parts such as engine and transmission on CX-5 have been skyrocketed since the pandemic. They used to be ~$500 for better ones now they seem to be well over $1,500! Not sure if this’s caused by shortage or just by major inflation.
 
Likely shortage coupled with inflation. It doesn’t matter what part I have tried to buy over the last year, parts for my ‘13 CX-5 are on backorder and not able to be purchased. AC compressor (thankfully didn’t need one, recharge fixed the AC), serpentine belt, FL22 fluid, lift gate struts to name a few are all on backorder with my favorite online Mazda retailers.
 
... It doesn’t matter what part I have tried to buy over the last year, parts for my ‘13 CX-5 are on backorder and not able to be purchased....

I think we're supposed to get "worn down" trying to keep our cars running without parts and supplies and just throw in the towel. It'll be easier to accept electric cars forced on folks then. Just have to send all of our ICE vehicles to the crusher.

... IMHO 😁
 
I think we're supposed to get "worn down" trying to keep our cars running without parts and supplies and just throw in the towel. It'll be easier to accept electric cars forced on folks then. Just have to send all of our ICE vehicles to the crusher.

... IMHO 😁
I was just saying the same thing to my wife. “The conspiracy theorist in me believes this is a feeble attempt to get me to trade in a perfectly good 10 year old vehicle” 😂
 
I was just saying the same thing to my wife. “The conspiracy theorist in me believes this is a feeble attempt to get me to trade in a perfectly good 10 year old vehicle” 😂
For me the conspiracy is the disappearing 6 cylinder engine, replaced by the turbo 4 with negligible hp or mpg improvements. Mazda's inline 6 is countertrend. Actually none of it is a conspiracy. Monkey-see-monkey-do is not a conspiracy.
 
For me the conspiracy is the disappearing 6 cylinder engine, replaced by the turbo 4 with negligible hp or mpg improvements. Mazda's inline 6 is countertrend. Actually none of it is a conspiracy. Monkey-see-monkey-do is not a conspiracy.
Drove to Florida last week from Pa., rented a car. They gave me a Chevy Equniox. Thing had a turbo 1.5 liter in it. I think the Flintstone mobile would have had more power.
 
In 2021 my 2017 CX5 had a grinding noise coming from the rear end. I had a local garage replace all of the belts as it was needing it. While up on the rack they noticed some noise coming from the rear differential.
Since I had purchased an extended warranty they recommended I take it back to the dealership which I did. The rear end was shot and needed replacing. My dealer contacted the warranty company and told them the cost of the repair. The warranty company wanted to use rebuilt parts but my dealer only uses Mazda OEM parts and refused to do the work with rebuilt parts.
After a week long battle the warranty company gave in and I received a brand new rear end assembly.
I will never buy a car without an extended warranty.
 
In 2021 my 2017 CX5 had a grinding noise coming from the rear end. I had a local garage replace all of the belts as it was needing it. While up on the rack they noticed some noise coming from the rear differential.
Since I had purchased an extended warranty they recommended I take it back to the dealership which I did. The rear end was shot and needed replacing. My dealer contacted the warranty company and told them the cost of the repair. The warranty company wanted to use rebuilt parts but my dealer only uses Mazda OEM parts and refused to do the work with rebuilt parts.
After a week long battle the warranty company gave in and I received a brand new rear end assembly.
I will never buy a car without an extended warranty.
Not sure what you paid for the warranty, but the dealer wanted just under 5K to replace the diff. in my CX5 They wanted 3,721.00 if I wanted to buy the diff and install it myself. So unless you paid ~5K for the warranty, it's already paid for itself!

~4k for a rear diff. is absolutely insane. You'd think we were talking about a much higher costs car.

I ordered a junkyard diff for 1,510 bucks (local delivery included). The donor car had ~14K on it.

The strange thing, the yard that I purchased it from will not warranty the diff (6 months) unless I install new seals... SMH.....
 
Not sure what you paid for the warranty, but the dealer wanted just under 5K to replace the diff. in my CX5 They wanted 3,721.00 if I wanted to buy the diff and install it myself. So unless you paid ~5K for the warranty, it's already paid for itself!

~4k for a rear diff. is absolutely insane. You'd think we were talking about a much higher costs car.

I ordered a junkyard diff for 1,510 bucks (local delivery included). The donor car had ~14K on it.

The strange thing, the yard that I purchased it from will not warranty the diff (6 months) unless I install new seals... SMH.....
What MY of the rear differential did you get for your 2017 CX-5? Have you checked if both sides of inner CV joint are fine on the drive shaft? Mazda has revised the rear differential input shaft casing a couple of times in the attempt of preventing the premature wear-out on the input shaft bearing based on several TSBs (see dukiebabe‘s post). On the other hand, if the differential is newer than your 2017 MY, you may have trouble doing the programming.

In addition, you may want to replace the vent on top of the rear differential with a revised version while you’re there. Check the condition of the vent, and you may already have the revised version.

I've ordered the replacement diff breather/vent hose mentioned in TSB to address that potential problem


KE02-27-090

Wonder if that is what caused Unobtanium's rear diff failure years ago?


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Seal replacement is a good advice to prevent leak. You needs more than 1 quart of expensive Mazda Long Life Hypoid gear oil SG1 to replace both gear oils at the front transfer case (better do it at your mileage, 60K+ miles) and the rear differential. The spec of 0.38 quart on rear differential is way off, more like 0.75 quart.
 
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I think I'm going to follow these instructions.. How common is it to install new drive shaft clips when pulling axles.?

I don't think I'll have to remove the exhaust pipes...
 

Attachments

  • 2017 CX5 REAR DIFFERENTIAL REMOVAL.pdf
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  • 2017 CX5 REAR DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL.pdf
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What MY of the rear differential did you get for your 2017 CX-5? Have you checked if both sides of inner CV joint are fine on the drive shaft? Mazda has revised the rear differential input shaft casing a couple of times in the attempt of preventing the premature wear-out on the input shaft bearing based on several TSBs (see dukiebabe‘s post). On the other hand, if the differential is newer than your 2017 MY, you may have trouble doing the programming.

In addition, you may want to replace the vent on top of the rear differential with a revised version while you’re there. Check the condition of the vent, and you may already have the revised version.

1) I didn't get that information from him.
2) I have not removed the axles yet (boots are perfectly fine) The Mazda tech said only the diff was the problem.
3) So are you saying that the junk yard diff may never be able to be programmed to the AWD module?
 
Here’s the post by Chris_Top_Her about TCM re-programming for the new rear differential:

Done and done..gonna have my tcm reprogrammed tomorrow with the new diffs text string. Old diff was tore up inside, very black oil but also low viscosity.. it may have had water damage but I've never forced anything (cough uno). So far so good. Also noticed my passenger side brake pad on the caliper side was damn near gone. Probably need to grease slid pins but after two multiple hours sessions I was done wrenching. Contacted brake labs to see if they sell pads only

You can also go to that post and read other discussions from him about his experience of replacing the rear differential.
 
So I called the yard, and the donor was a 2019 CX5? I'm I good?
Chris_Top_Her said the TCM needs to know the rear diff’s ID. But he didn’t answer how he did it. You can check with Mazda parts and see if the part numbers are the same between 2017’s and 2019’s. Also you can check with the service or any other places and see if they can do the TCM reprogramming with a new differential.
 
Ok so I got, what I presume is, the part number (on the Diff cast) and the programing string. I'm thinking I should be OK.

I'll know in a few week I guess. :cool:

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In 2021 my 2017 CX5 had a grinding noise coming from the rear end. I had a local garage replace all of the belts as it was needing it. While up on the rack they noticed some noise coming from the rear differential.
Since I had purchased an extended warranty they recommended I take it back to the dealership which I did. The rear end was shot and needed replacing. My dealer contacted the warranty company and told them the cost of the repair. The warranty company wanted to use rebuilt parts but my dealer only uses Mazda OEM parts and refused to do the work with rebuilt parts.
After a week long battle the warranty company gave in and I received a brand new rear end assembly.
I will never buy a car without an extended warranty.
I got the 10 year 100k mile VSA from Mazda (not a third party) for $1500 with $0 deductible from Werner Mazda in NH for my 22' Preferred.

I really don't care what breaks in this car as long as it has a warranty. I put in maybe 9k miles a year so in 2032 I'll go back to Toyota and get something more reliable. Already went through a transmission at 7k miles and had a loaner vehicle for a month while they waited on parts.

The 2015 Subaru forester I passed down to my son for college has 189k miles with $20 super tech synthetic oil changes every 5k miles, I'm not sure these newer gen Mazdas can reach 150k without some sort of expensive repair.
 
I got the 10 year 100k mile VSA from Mazda (not a third party) for $1500 with $0 deductible from Werner Mazda in NH for my 22' Preferred.

I really don't care what breaks in this car as long as it has a warranty. I put in maybe 9k miles a year so in 2032 I'll go back to Toyota and get something more reliable. Already went through a transmission at 7k miles and had a loaner vehicle for a month while they waited on parts.

The 2015 Subaru forester I passed down to my son for college has 189k miles with $20 super tech synthetic oil changes every 5k miles, I'm not sure these newer gen Mazdas can reach 150k without some sort of expensive repair.
Yeah. The more I read the board, the more disappointed I become.
Both my Toyotas and Ford's lasted 14 + years with 200,000 miles and only minor fixes like alternator($100 part but PITA to replace) or drive-axle replacement, etc. The engine, tranny and pumpkins all lasted while the frame rusted out before the powertrains gave out. Since Toyotas and Ford's have mass production, salvage/junkyard parts were cheap. Really like the Mazda handling, driving feel, and safety features but we'll see how it holds up and how long before a major powertrain repair.
 
Yeah. The more I read the board, the more disappointed I become.
Both my Toyotas and Ford's lasted 14 + years with 200,000 miles and only minor fixes like alternator($100 part but PITA to replace) or drive-axle replacement, etc. The engine, tranny and pumpkins all lasted while the frame rusted out before the powertrains gave out. Since Toyotas and Ford's have mass production, salvage/junkyard parts were cheap. Really like the Mazda handling, driving feel, and safety features but we'll see how it holds up and how long before a major powertrain repair.
Yup, getting parts for my wife’s Corolla is stupid cheap due to the mass availability.

The stock entune head unit died and I was able to get one for $75 on eBay and pop it in. VS the Mazda 10” screen being hard to source and $700+ for a used one.
 
I got the 10 year 100k mile VSA from Mazda (not a third party) for $1500 with $0 deductible from Werner Mazda in NH for my 22' Preferred.

I really don't care what breaks in this car as long as it has a warranty. I put in maybe 9k miles a year so in 2032 I'll go back to Toyota and get something more reliable. Already went through a transmission at 7k miles and had a loaner vehicle for a month while they waited on parts.

The 2015 Subaru forester I passed down to my son for college has 189k miles with $20 super tech synthetic oil changes every 5k miles, I'm not sure these newer gen Mazdas can reach 150k without some sort of expensive repair.
That's a damn good price and terms for an EW. Got mine for $1300/6years/100k miles/$100 deductible Mazda warranty for my 2016. Just ticked off $800 for a heated drivers seat cushion under that EW. It also covered my belt tensioner a few years ago. Prices are insane anymore.
 
Junkyard replacement complete, just need to have the car calibrated to different diff. I did notice a very small amount of play in the junkyard diff @ CV axle connections. Hopefully normal.

We started ~4.30p and finished up at ~9.45p. That included a dinner break (~30 min), pulling and installing new outboard diff seals in used diff (super easy), installing new rear CV axle clips (out of spec) and draining and refilling front (and rear junkyard) diff. and Of course clean up.

We orginaly pulled the axle nuts, but as you can see in the pictures (sorry I was rolling with the work so I only took 2) that is COMPLETELY unnecessary, especially if you have a 2nd person.

Praise God it went very well. If you're interested in doing this yourself, I can list all the supplies and tools I used to make this go smooth. It also helps alot having a 2nd person. You can defininly do this by yourself, but it would have taken twice as long IMO.

Front diff oil looked good, but didn't seem like much came out. (didn't measure unfortunately)

If anyone is interested in what the inside of the blown diff looks like inside, comment and I'll open it up when it's warmer and post some pictures.



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