What have you done to your P5 today?

[pcb]

Another FYI,...
This is the Non-fouler that I made years ago.

I remember somebody made one and realized that his O2 sensor wouldn't fit into the Non-fouler because it was too big, so he had to buy a new one.

I think it was the DENSO that was too big ?


The one from my parts car is too big and won't fit, but the new one does.


I don't need the non-fouler, I was just curious at the time and made one.

They have new ones now that are already extended so you don't have to drill the one out and put two together.



EDIT:
The refurbished O2 sensor is ready to be reinstalled.

I think it will work because it worked before.

I'm figuring that it was the circuit that caused my problem.
If not I'll rewire my new sensor, or cut the wire that illuminates my CEL. Lol







EDIT:
I installed my O2 sensor and went for a drive.
My CEL cleared itself and the light went off.

I didn't want to clear the code with my OBDII reader because I didn't want to have to go through all those drive cycles again.

 

[pcb]

... I noticed that my LCA and outer tie rod ends had cracked bushings/boots. They weren't completely split like the boots on my end links, but they will get there soon. Honestly, if I've eliminated the clunking by replacing all my end links, I may not worry about them.

That looks broken to me.

That ball joint is really important.
They don't measure it by how much slop/movement is in the ball, they measure it by how much torque it takes to rotate the ball.

And it's standing with the pin up, so any water/dirt sits right on top of the ball and works it's way in. It doesn't drain out.


Replacing the LCA's is a PITA, but I found this...

(Nice drawings Eh? They look just like my boots.
I think Mazda gave a grade 2 class free pizza and crayons to make all their diagrams. Lol)

You can still get a lot more life out of your ball joints if they are sealed.

If they wear out, your alignment will float around, wear out your tires and be unstable at speed.


You'll have to remove the ball joint pin from the knuckle and get an alignment afterwards to install them, but it's cheaper and easier than new LCA's.



PS..
The bolt through the knuckle needs to be completely removed. There is a grove around the ball joint pin that the bolt goes through to prevent the pin from slipping out of the knuckle.

My pins were seized in the knuckle. I hammered a chisel into the gap in the knuckle. Its halfway between the bolt head and the nut.
That spread open the knuckle to allow the pin to come out.

 

[pcb]

This one isn't as critical and the pin is facing down, so water and crap should drain out.
Filling it with grease should be good enough, replacing them isn't too big of a job either, and they're relatively cheap.

The inner tie rod boots only move in and out and are much less inclined to break.
The outers bend, twist and pivot, and are more prone to breaking.
(I only replaced my outers.)

 

[BenjiHoggi]

DANG IT! You guys jinxed me with your O2 sensor problems.
Saw the CEL this morning for P0037 and it hasn't come back since clearing it. I guess I'd better pay closer attention to the recent posts here if I'm going to need another O2 sensor.

 

[pcb]

Here's some more info about it.

It needs two drive cycles to pop the code again, if your O2 heater is actually burned out, and it's an intermittent monitor, so it may take a while.


That code is WAY better to have than P0421.
That's the one that means your pre-cat is fried.

 

[RPRP5]

DANG IT! You guys jinxed me with your O2 sensor problems.
Saw the CEL this morning for P0037 and it hasn't come back since clearing it. I guess I'd better pay closer attention to the recent posts here if I'm going to need another O2 sensor.

View attachment 299197

I've just been ignoring P0660 and P0171 since they go away on their own whenever they want to. Which leads me to believe a solenoid is getting stuck open intermittently

 

[pcb]

I've just been ignoring P0660 and P0171 since they go away on their own whenever they want to. Which leads me to believe a solenoid is getting stuck open intermittently

Almost all of us have had to replace that VICS solenoid valve.

It's cheap and easy to replace.

My PRC solenoid valve crapped out (it's the same solenoid valve).

I checked it by putting 12V to it and it clicked?
Did it again and it clicked again?

So I touched the 12V to it really fast a dozen times and it stopped clicking.

They get sticky and fussy when they start to wear out.

 

[tj4fa2003P5]

Speaking of sensors (and cats), I've been busy changing the clutch and doing some underbody and engine bay rattle-can painting this week/week-end.

So now most of the sensor connectors (and their connector wires) are black.

It looks like my son may have to learn some serious electrical system trouble-shooting when he gets his "$750-" car back.

Attached are a few pictures - none of the cat (yet) but next time when she 'helps me out" sleeping under the car while I work.

Photos of some of the car work I did today and earlier this weekend.
-03 Mazda P5 Engine Bay Before
-Engine Bay Current with Transmission Re-Installed (so far)
-Some other parts getting painted while front suspension removed to get the transmission clutch parts changed.

-I'll try to show some transmission/clutch change-out photos later on with another post.

 

[katapaltes]

If it doesn't stop pinging, you may need a new knock sensor.

Check the condition of your knock sensor.
They go bad over time and the gell turns to goo and starts running.

It's located right above the oil filter.

(there is a code for it, but it doesn't monitor performance, just the circuit itself.)


View attachment 299102



A new knock sensor may actually fix your pinging without having to use premium gas ?
(but I'm guessing)

The ECU is supposed to adjust ignition timing and such to stop pinging.

Went for a drive this evening and didn't notice any pinging even going up a hill, so I may need 91 octane with this JDM engine as others have said. I'll go back to 87 on the next fill-up just to verify that the pinging returns, and then I'll test using mid-grade. It's $.60 difference between regular and premium in Dallas and that sucks, but I don't drive much and I don't want to mess up this engine.

I purposely hit almost every imperfection in the road this evening and now that all four sway bar end links have been replaced, there were little/no clunks. I'll take a look at outer tie rod ends and those boots for the LCAs next. I'll just have to time it with replacing my tires because of the need for an alignment.

 

[RPRP5]

Speaking of sensors (and cats), I've been busy changing the clutch and doing some underbody and engine bay rattle-can painting this week/week-end.

So now most of the sensor connectors (and their connector wires) are black.

It looks like my son may have to learn some serious electrical system trouble-shooting when he gets his "$750-" car back.

Attached are a few pictures - none of the cat (yet) but next time when she 'helps me out" sleeping under the car while I work.

Photos of some of the car work I did today and earlier this weekend.
-03 Mazda P5 Engine Bay Before
-Engine Bay Current with Transmission Re-Installed (so far)
-Some other parts getting painted while front suspension removed to get the transmission clutch parts changed.

-I'll try to show some transmission/clutch change-out photos later on with another post.

In a year from now, your son is gonna be taking that thing to car shows and entering in contests with it, mark my words!

All jokes aside, wow. It came out amazing! A little TLC goes a long way!

 

[tj4fa2003P5]

...I'll take a look at outer tie rod ends and those boots for the LCAs next. I'll just have to time it with replacing my tires because of the need for an alignment.

Maybe not.
Below is a link to a video where you can change the boots and outer tie-rod ends without needing an alignment.
Steering Rack Boot Replacement without removing tie rod ball joint and not affecting wheel alignment
If you find the music a little annoying, you can mute it as it has text that explains the procedure.

 

[tj4fa2003P5]

In a year from now, your son is gonna be taking that thing to car shows and entering in contests with it, mark my words!

All jokes aside, wow. It came out amazing! A little TLC goes a long way!

Thanks RPRP5.
I just hope it gets him back and forth to work (and home once-in-a-while).

 

[pcb]

Maybe not.
Below is a link to a video where you can change the boots and outer tie-rod ends without needing an alignment.
Steering Rack Boot Replacement without removing tie rod ball joint and not affecting wheel alignment
If you find the music a little annoying, you can mute it as it has text that explains the procedure.

I tried that method for the outer tie rod ends on my car.
I loosened the lock nut and left it in position then installed my new tie rod end.

It didn't work.
My new tie rod end had a slightly different thread count and distance to the center of the ball.


But I made my own alignment tool, so I could set my alignment myself.
It works good enough for me.
It saved me $100. Lol

 

[pcb]

It's based off this old school alignment tool...

I can get my alignment to within 2mm.

 

[Diamond_Dave]

Keep in mind that reverse is hard to get into for all of us.

The transmission locks us out...

Actually it isn’t the transmission that is an issue, it’s the broken motor mounts and hydraulic system.
The best way to get into Reverse when you get “locked out” is to hold the lever in reverse and slowly let the clutch out. You’ll feel it slip into gear smoothly with no drama.

 

[pcb]

The best way to get into Reverse when you get “locked out” is to hold the lever in reverse and slowly let the clutch out. You’ll feel it slip into gear smoothly with no drama.

It makes me nervous doing it that way.
It's too easy to grind my gears.

I just push the clutch in, then go into third, then fourth, then it goes into reverse.
I rarely have to do it twice.

It's habit for me now and I do it without even thinking about it.
It takes me half a second.



I do something similar when coming to a stop though.
I push in the clutch, pull it out of gear and go for first with just a tiny bit of pressure on the stick shift.

When the car is at the right speed (about 3 M/hr) it just falls into first gear really gently.

 

[RPRP5]

I just let it out, let the car roll just a bit, then try it again. No point in fighting with it and possibly breaking something

 

[E49PR5]

Hello, been lurking here a while, living in South FL means no road salts but u have to garage or get a good cover, ordered this 03 new with tiptronic & no sunroof , it just turned 51k miles, only drive it once in a while to keep everything lubed great cars!

 

[tj4fa2003P5]

Welcome - Appears to be a rarely used and un-abused BEAUTY!!
Probably still has that new car smell.

NW Florida here. Gulf (salt water laden air white beaches) are 5 miles away.

My son's ("$750-") car that I'm working on will eventually go to Central Florida-Orlando so that will be good for both him and his car.

Currently, I am neutralizing rust and Rustoleum'ing everything under the car (and beyond) while replacing front/rear suspension items along with LOTS of other stuff while doing the transmission clutch.

 

[E49PR5]

Preventative maintenance and keeping it out of the sun is key,
( that and if you have "OCD" like I do).
I flush brakes annually, change oil every 4-5k, also spray Armor all on anything rubber underneath annually and coat any bare metal surfaces when new.
Only thing not original is the oem antenna which had deteriorated and the factory Dunlop tires 2 years ago which were getting old n brittle.
Still enjoy driving the "Bumblebee" but the Lexus CT200h F sport has a few more whistles and bells !