One thing I remember is that we can put an MP3 ECU, or get our ECU flashed to an MP3 and put it in our car for a few more HP, but it only works with a standard transmission, (because the MP3 was only available as a 5-speed) and you have to start using premium gas.
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
One thing I remember is that we can put an MP3 ECU, or get our ECU flashed to an MP3 and put it in our car for a few more HP, but it only works with a standard transmission, (because the MP3 was only available as a 5-speed) and you have to start using premium gas.
The engine is the engine. If it's the same engine code, then it doesn't have mysteriously higher compression, just because of Japan. Now, Japan does benefit from having higher octane fuel availability than the US, but the engines aren't different, just because they are in Japan. If they are different, they'll use different pistons and have a different engine designation. Hope this helps.
If my engine goes, the car goes. It has too many issues to be worth the headache of an engine swap, unfortunately. Cause I've kinda fallen in love with the platform. They just handle so well out of the box, for what was a 16k car back in 2002. However, if I could snag a clean, low mile one, you bet your ass I'd baby it.
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
Yeah, I'm not going to claim I have expertise here that I don't have. Your logic makes a lot of sense to me. I was mainly referencing protegefaq.net, which lists engine specs for all Protege engines. The FS-ZE and FS-DE do have different compression, but like you mentioned, the engine codes aren't the same.
This is my take on it. (I'm just kinda guessing)
The FS-DE engines are all the same but the ECUs are different.
The Japanese version of our engine may indeed require premium gas.
If we swap an MP3 ECU into our car, we need to start using premium gas.
I'm pretty sure that a JDM FS-DE is a direct swap into our car and because of our ECU, it will run fine on regular gas.
I'm pretty sure a JDM engine only requires premium gas when paired with a JDM ECU.
It's worth trying to find out for sure to help keep your options open.
Just keep an eye on your oil level.
Maybe get an aluminum dipstick
Keep quarts of oil in your car.
It will run fine if it isn't starved for oil.
Don't run it until the oil light comes on.
Check your oil at every fill up.
The last owner of my parts car wrote "Check The Oil" under the gas cap cover with a marker.
When your engine burns more oil than gas and you're smoking out your neighborhood, its time to look into it.
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
Haaa, that's clever. We can't pump our own gas here in Oregon but maybe the attendant would see it and check the oil for me
As an aside....new projector headlights! Just waiting for HID bulbs and they'll be installed to replace my oxidized stock lights. I've gone through probably $60 in bulbs during 2 years of ownership, and these hopefully won't cost as much in the long run, while offering much better light output.
These specific ones have been handed around a lot. Bought them from another P5 guy who bought them from the person who did the retrofit, presumably. The retrofit was done extremely hackily but I've fixed them up as nice as possible by swapping parts between another set.
If anybody wants a cheap set of pretty trashed black-housing headlights to fix up and retrofit or restore, I'll be listing them for sale in the marketplace section. Both lenses and one housing are pretty far gone, but they could be swapped or just used as-is.
I went to install my new downstream O2 sensor.
The cord is too short, and the connector doesn't fit.
Fricken eBay crap !!
Now I have to cut the cord off the old one and solder the four wires in the right order.
The wire colors are all different.
What a PITA... I should have spent a few more bucks and got one from Rock Auto.
The cord is too short, and the connector doesn't fit.
Fricken eBay crap !!
Now I have to cut the cord off the old one and solder the four wires in the right order.
The wire colors are all different.
What a PITA... I should have spent a few more bucks and got one from Rock Auto.
I went to remove the connector from my old O2 sensor and found this...
The sensor was from my parts car that I put on my daily driver after my O2 sensor died.
It looks like the previous owner did the electronic version of the non-fouler trick after he cooked his pre-cat.
I remember that circuit from way back but it's buried in the forum somewhere.
I found my original O2 sensor.
I'm going to use that to extend my wires instead.
The sensor was from my parts car that I put on my daily driver after my O2 sensor died.
It looks like the previous owner did the electronic version of the non-fouler trick after he cooked his pre-cat.
I remember that circuit from way back but it's buried in the forum somewhere.
I found my original O2 sensor.
I'm going to use that to extend my wires instead.
katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
- :
- Dallas, TX
- :
- 2003 Protege5
I got both of my DENSO ones off eBay and they've worked pretty well so far and they weren't too spendy. After 15+ years, the second one failed a year to the day after the first one.
A wise man once said that oil consumption was not good for CATs and O2 sensors... I think my previous moderate oil loss may have contributed to the O2 sensors dying. I feel lucky I still have all my cats...
katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
- :
- Dallas, TX
- :
- 2003 Protege5
You'll find a fair amount of discussion about JDM FS-DE engines and their fuel requirements on this forum, and from what I've read they do require premium fuel (95 RON equals approximately 91 octane in the US). My P5 received a JDM engine last year after an oil change gone wrong, and I think it's a FS-DE. However, I can't say for sure as I have zero paperwork on it as the shop went dark soon after due to the pandemic. What I can say is that it pings noticeably going up hills, so I've let it run low on gas and put half a tank of 93 octane in. If it stops pinging, I'll assume I need to run 91.
Anyone want to remind me where to find the stamp on the engine where it says "FS-DE"? I've seen that somewhere on this forum, and I'll report back. I'll be hitting my "test hill" tomorrow and will be able to report back if the pinging is resolved as well. Makes me wonder if I need to put an MP3 ECU in it if I'm forced to run premium gas anyway. Could be a good excuse...
EDIT: Just found this on the front side of the engine, just below the valve cover:
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Mine was a no-name generic O2 sensor made in China.
I should have known better.
We aren't even supposed to bump start our car because the half second of unburt fuel is enough to burn out the pre-cat.
I don't need the non-fouler trick.
I've got all my cats too..
(I got the no activity code, not the below threshold code)
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If it doesn't stop pinging, you may need a new knock sensor.
Check the condition of your knock sensor.
They go bad over time and the gell turns to goo and starts running.
It's located right above the oil filter.
(there is a code for it, but it doesn't monitor performance, just the circuit itself.)
A new knock sensor may actually fix your pinging without having to use premium gas ?
(but I'm guessing)
The ECU is supposed to adjust ignition timing and such to stop pinging.
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katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
- :
- Dallas, TX
- :
- 2003 Protege5
Thank you for mentioning that.. I noticed a while back that it was a bit sticky to the touch. If I still hear pings while mounting my reference hill tomorrow this will be the next thing I replace. Also, I added a pic to my last post above in case you're curious. I can't find much out there on the "FS9" engine - if that's what it actually is.
I replaced my front sway bar end links two days ago with the genuine Mazda ones from eBay. They work great and they seem like a steal for $20 apiece.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...2&toolid=10001&campid=&icep_item=184123881996
While doing that, I noticed that my LCA and outer tie rod ends had cracked bushings/boots. They weren't completely split like the boots on my end links, but they will get there soon. Honestly, if I've eliminated the clunking by replacing all my end links, I may not worry about them.
I can't find much out there on the "FS9" engine - if that's what it actually is.I replaced my front sway bar end links two days ago with the genuine Mazda ones from eBay. They work great and they seem like a steal for $20 apiece.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...2&toolid=10001&campid=&icep_item=184123881996
While doing that, I noticed that my LCA and outer tie rod ends had cracked bushings/boots. They weren't completely split like the boots on my end links, but they will get there soon. Honestly, if I've eliminated the clunking by replacing all my end links, I may not worry about them.
... Also, I added a pic to my last post above in case you're curious.
My engine has the same "FS9" on it. I don't know what it means?
I've got a bracket with a connector in the way?
I bought a grease needle that plugs onto a grease gun.
I poke it through the boot and fill it with grease.
That way water has no place to go inside, and the ball joint won't start to rust.
The needle hole is small and closes up on itself to keep the seal.
I fill all my boots with grease.
The boots on the slider pins on the brakes are packed full of grease too.
The boots on the P-brake cables too. Everything...
It might add a bit of resistance to the movement, but its a lot better than seized up with rust. Lol
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This is the chart that BenjiHoggi was referring to...
I remember it from 10 years ago.
I'm pretty sure it's accurate.
The only difference between the engines is the horse power and torque, everything else is exactly the same.
That's why I was thinking the only difference is in the tuning of the different ECU's.
I don't get it ?
I remember it from 10 years ago.
I'm pretty sure it's accurate.
The only difference between the engines is the horse power and torque, everything else is exactly the same.
That's why I was thinking the only difference is in the tuning of the different ECU's.
I don't get it ?
Fortunately, the downstream O2 sensor does nothing but monitor the condition of the Pre-Cat, and doesn't affect driveablity in any way.
I actually ordered the sensor more than six months ago, but didn't want to install it because it was too cold out.
Then the CEL turned off, so I thought I was good. Then it turned back on, so I decided to install the new one.
It doesn't even matter. We here in Ontario don't even have to get smog tested anymore, so I could have dozens of codes and a flashing CEL, but I wouldn't do that.
I am going to procrastinate a bit longer though...
Maybe I'll do it tomorrow, or the next day... lol
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
These are my 3 downstream O2 sensors...
The one in the middle is my original one from my DD.
They get REALLY seized and can be brutal to remove.
I stripped the hex with my open ended wrech, so I cut it with a grinder and cutoff wheel so that I could get a socket on it.
They have O2 sensor sockets, but I don't have one. They have a slot in them for the wires but the socket can open up and strip the hex too. (O2 sensors are nasty!)
You can install the new sensor with an open ended wrench, but put antiseize on the threads so it doesn't seize.
Regular grease can cook from the heat and glue it into the bung.
I think I'm just going to remove the resistor and capacitor from the wiring of the O2 sensor that was just on the car and reinstall it.
It's the easiest way to do it.
I can always rewire my new one if it doesn't work.
Or I could cut all the wires off of it and install it to plug the hole and put some tape over that damn CEL. It really is annoying. Lol
The one in the middle is my original one from my DD.
They get REALLY seized and can be brutal to remove.
I stripped the hex with my open ended wrech, so I cut it with a grinder and cutoff wheel so that I could get a socket on it.
They have O2 sensor sockets, but I don't have one. They have a slot in them for the wires but the socket can open up and strip the hex too. (O2 sensors are nasty!)
You can install the new sensor with an open ended wrench, but put antiseize on the threads so it doesn't seize.
Regular grease can cook from the heat and glue it into the bung.
I think I'm just going to remove the resistor and capacitor from the wiring of the O2 sensor that was just on the car and reinstall it.
It's the easiest way to do it.
I can always rewire my new one if it doesn't work.
Or I could cut all the wires off of it and install it to plug the hole and put some tape over that damn CEL. It really is annoying. Lol
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