iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread

[iracemine]

I don't want to talk s*** about anything 505zoom does as it is such a great thing someone/anyone makes anything for our 13 year old insignificant cars! BUT yes I also think the welds don't penetrate.

That said... he has saved me s*** tons of money (by not having to go ITBs, and I could not give a s*** to have a super high end metal shop re-weld the seam. After all it was my fault for not bringing out the jump battery in cold temps to start the car.

This was from mid summer. I never made the video for it. But as of the past couple days I cant sleep so here it is.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WnXIiwEgtrE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

also
wilwood seems to make the lightest BBK for the evo7/8/9 (damn close or under to the stock MSP weight).

Just need to finish crying before I buy 17" rims at $300 a pop (cuse 12.5lbs). Stats to come later.

 

[iracemine]

here is this 12.5 wheel. I know they make a 10 spoke but that looks just too fragile.
http://veloxwheels.com/wheels/pg-5s-forged

any help for finding this cars wheel in a cheaper lighter alternative would be appreciated!

 

[Circuit]

here is this 12.5 wheel. I know they make a 10 spoke but that looks just too fragile.
http://veloxwheels.com/wheels/pg-5s-forged

any help for finding this cars wheel in a cheaper lighter alternative would be appreciated!

What are your restrictions/requirements for width/offset? $300/wheel is really not that bad, especially given the weight.

17x7 +45 RPF1 = 14.9 lb - $250/wheel
17x8 +48 6UL = 16.6 lb - $230/wheel
17x7 +45 K1TS = 14.6 lb - $200/wheel

You're definitely not going to find anything that is actually forged in that price range. MAT/Flowformed like the RPF1, 6UL, or that Velox will be the best for the money. I'm sure you know the saying: Cheap, Strong, Light - pick 2.

 

[mspeedP5]

I don't want to talk s*** about anything 505zoom does as it is such a great thing someone/anyone makes anything for our 13 year old insignificant cars! BUT yes I also think the welds don't penetrate.

That said... he has saved me s*** tons of money (by not having to go ITBs, and I could not give a s*** to have a super high end metal shop re-weld the seam. After all it was my fault for not bringing out the jump battery in cold temps to start the car.

This was from mid summer. I never made the video for it. But as of the past couple days I cant sleep so here it is.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WnXIiwEgtrE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

also
wilwood seems to make the lightest BBK for the evo7/8/9 (damn close or under to the stock MSP weight).

Just need to finish crying before I buy 17" rims at $300 a pop (cuse 12.5lbs). Stats to come later.

Lovin' the video!

 

[iracemine]

Fixed.

Still deciding on brake situation. Need to re-plumb the rear brakes first, and go from there.

 

[mspeedP5]

I still see a problem....

There's no tap in that keg!! ;D

 

[iracemine]

Re-plumbed the rear brakes and lost my cool for a minute. Then bought a real tool for the job and tossed the harbor freight tool in the trash. I cant even begin to tell you how many hours I have wasted on that car with the last one. Brakes still feel the same. Bulsterd up the master cylinder with some steel stock I had and that helped realign the master cylinder and make the pedal feel a bit stiffer.

Also after getting the plumbing done I reinstalled the mani and found that I had a vacuum leak around the injectors. Must have had some warpage during that back fire. Put some spacers behind the rubber grommets at the top of each injector to help push them down and make a tighter seal. Will re-re-dial in the idle. With the ccv bypas and the extra tight intake it will need a re-tune to get out of the green, and lean it out a bit. So later this week I will start to move on to see if I can get race brakes on this thing or if its going to be for sale. To bad... Its a solid reliable build. A great tun-key race car for someone that has not the greatest mechanical ability. But will see.

 

[iracemine]

The 29.99 wonder tool you can find at your local car part store or harbor freight.

and then the 80 tool I found online from homdepot.com. Everywhere else I looked had the next best thing at close to 300 bucks. So i was glad to find this.

 

[mspeedP5]

I can see why you were contemplating throwing in the towel!! Don't give in!!

 

[iracemine]

like I said this thing runs great.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jSL-pUQGOO8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[iracemine]

looks like I might be able to get a MX5 BB inside the 15" rims. These huge 6 pot brakes are 1lbs lighter than stock, and the rotors are slightly lighter than 3lbs each too. Getting me back to stock protege weight. I am hoping that all the aluminum in this kit will dissipate the heat instead of absorbing and holding on to it like the cast iron. Also in theory the larger pad will have to work less to stop the car than the msp pad thus creating less heat. I also like that the rotor has a lot more room in towards the hub allowing more forced air (from the ducts) into the cooling veins.

Just have to customize the hats and get brackets made up from my local guy.

So I have a quite a few high end brake pads for the Protege's and MSP for sale. I will make a for sale thread if anyone thinks this crowd would be interested.

 

[mspeedP5]

Who you getting the Willwood stuff from?
I've been talking to http://store.revolutionbrake.com/ about a 4 corner set-up. Waiting to hear back with a quote.

 

[iracemine]

Neat web site. I am basically doing what he is doing for our cars. I am buying the MX5 kit from summit racing (cheapest I could find, no tax, no shipping) and then having my local machine shop make the brackets and fill and re-drill the hats.

The clearance from mounting surface to inside spoke is .71 for my kit and I have close to 1inch with the rota slipsteems, and then 13.24 for interior diameter where I have about 13.5. So this BB fits in there.

To get this done I will be bringing the machinist both corners of the car. That way he will have everything to line up and make perfect. I have thought about getting rear wilwood calipers, but really would like to keep my parking brake. When I look at wilwood calipers that have the parking brake feature they seem to be exactly whats already on our car. HOWEVER, if you are putting 4pot calipers back there let me know what its like and I might go for it.

 

[704_mazdaguy]

If you are having the centers re-drilled and the brackets made, wouldn't it be cheaper/easier to just buy the calipers and rotors?
That way you can buy the centers for something thats already 5x114.3 so you can just skip that step.

 

[The_big_dill]

I was wondering, what were the greatest contributors to weight in this car while you were pulling parts to make it lighter?

 

[iracemine]

If you are having the centers re-drilled and the brackets made, wouldn't it be cheaper/easier to just buy the calipers and rotors?
That way you can buy the centers for something thats already 5x114.3 so you can just skip that step.

wilwood does not make anything 5X114 for their 11" rotors. the next best thing that has that same offset and bolt pattern is for their 13" rotors.

I was wondering, what were the greatest contributors to weight in this car while you were pulling parts to make it lighter?

unsprung weight soo wheels and tires, then pass driver seat, then crash bars and door parts, then everything after that was just little bit by little bit adding up.

like; I dont have seatbelts, front drivers pass windows, heater core, ac everyting, power steering everything, full size battery, interior, exhaust, ect... it all ads up.

 

[iracemine]

If you are having the centers re-drilled and the brackets made, wouldn't it be cheaper/easier to just buy the calipers and rotors?
That way you can buy the centers for something thats already 5x114.3 so you can just skip that step.

Also kits are always cheaper. Comes with all the hardware, pads, and a price reduction on the stuff. I did think about just getting the calipers and reusing the stock msp rotors. But just could not pass up the weight savings, heat propertys of the rotors, and that larger intake area for the rotor veins.

also look into fastbrake.com He said he might have something, but would need to know the exact specs.... so I am pretty confident in my local guy. He is rather inexpensive. He doesn't add a %300 margin because it has racing written somewhere on it.

 

[rally2003]

What is the curb weight of the car? Just curious. I weighed mine 2 years ago at 2545lbs and have taken a lot of things out since then. It is almost impossible to legally get down to the min weight for my car class in SCCA.

 

[iracemine]

What is the curb weight of the car? Just curious. I weighed mine 2 years ago at 2545lbs and have taken a lot of things out since then. It is almost impossible to legally get down to the min weight for my car class in SCCA.

Its been forever since I have corner weighted the car, but at that time it was 2170 w/out me in it. I would say w/ me and all the bs I have put into it since I would be closer to 2500.

 

[iracemine]

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd.aspx?itemno=120-5081

Should work with the Stock MSP rear rotors. Will look into this when I hear back from the machinist with my front brake application. First race of the year is looking closer than I want.