ECU reflash by ECUnleashed review..

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2012 Touring MT
I have been gathering data about the Reflash to make sure that is something safe and reliable for me and everybody in this forum.

The reflash is amazing gives the car a great amount of torque gain in the low end also increases the HP as well. Like Derrick said the higher rpm limiter is awesome. This reflash also over rules the speed limiter and the electronic mechanism that kills the car when you press the gas and brake pedal at the same time is gone. So I can now learn how to left brake ;) . Also changes the throttle response, way earlier than factory.

The people in charge of this product have a great reputation and their costumer service is amazing. The way it works once you contact them, you file up a form with your car information so they know what kind of reflash suits you better; either you drive your car to one of the dealers they have around the country and get it done there like I did (2hrs process) or you mail your ECU to them.

Dyno sheet on June 14th 2013 (same day of the reflash) shows Numbers 1- with some mods (headers exhaust ,intake) before reflash : 96.99 HP and 97.85 Torque
1- after reflash 99.35 HP and 99.31 Torque

What I see very important is the huge increase of torque on the low end almos 7 lbs. of torque at 4000 rpms, ist feels really awesome



Fuel Efficiency : City: Factory 29 MPG after reflash 29.4 MPG average
Highway: Factory 35 MPG after reflash 33.7 MPG to 37 MPG based on driving style

Contact information:

http://ecunleashed.com/

or at info@ecunleashed.com
 

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Oh yeah, other states get 93. That redline is nice. Their sites show a lot of motorcycle stuff. I assume your location would have to get in contact with the location near me (Millbrae, 30 mins away!!!) and let them know what they did to your car?

Also, would you mind revealing the cost? PM if necessary.
 
Looks good. Any reason why they started the Dyno pulls so high up? I usually start at 2K. I would love to see the improvement from 2K-4K for daily driving.
 
Oh yeah, other states get 93. That redline is nice. Their sites show a lot of motorcycle stuff. I assume your location would have to get in contact with the location near me (Millbrae, 30 mins away!!!) and let them know what they did to your car?

Also, would you mind revealing the cost? PM if necessary.

They started years ago with motorcycles became very popular and then added the car products.

Cost is $449


Looks good. Any reason why they started the Dyno pulls so high up? I usually start at 2K. I would love to see the improvement from 2K-4K for daily driving.

The assistant doing the dyno , I was not happy , it was too late to re hook the car. I will do another dyno with the new CAI soon, before the new exhaust coming up ... ;)

It feels really powerful plus the change to the throttle response helps a lot...

Andres
 
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Their sites show a lot of motorcycle stuff. I assume your location would have to get in contact with the location near me (Millbrae, 30 mins away!!!) and let them know what they did to your car?

Most of their dealers are motorcycle shops, mine actually was the first M2. I brought my car they hooked it up to read the ECU 50 seconds later they send the file to the main center. Two hours later the hook the car again for 15 minutes and Listo !!

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Andres
 
Just took a look at their map of locations. I'm about equidistant from their Florida, Virginia, and Texas locations. :(

Oh, well. Not like I had the dough to do it, anyway.
 
I have 2 more questions. 1 How much was it. Doesn't really say anything on their site. 2. Any reason why your car was doing 15:1 A/F up to 5500 after the tune? That kinda scares me.
 
You know I can't wait to do this. I've already told my friend he's coming with me for the drive down lol. Too bad it won't be for another 2 months....patience...I don't know if I have enough to wait for this. =)
 
I have 2 more questions. 1 How much was it. Doesn't really say anything on their site. 2. Any reason why your car was doing 15:1 A/F up to 5500 after the tune? That kinda scares me.

The cost is shown above on a previous post, I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to tuning, I know though that power gains can be found by leaning the mixture, you should email them with your concerns.

Andres
 
Sounds good man. I'm glad you finally got tuned. I wonder how it compares to the dyotronics tune. I wonder what my A/F mix is at right now. The car has been acting fine, but yea i think the norm would be between 12:1-14:1, so you are just above that. Peaking at 15:1 i think would be ok but the fluctuation should be around 12-14 if i'm not mistaken. I think you'll be ok. Good job on providing info and contact info for everybody to see. Another option for us all.
 
Hmm I wonder, Piasini which is what Dynotronics uses and the Texas addresses are in the same town as Dynotronics - what are the odds?
 
If you are doing a dyno pull your tune should hold a pretty constant A/F ratio. My miata fluctuates maybe +/- 0.1 when I am doing pulls so it should be consistent which is what it is in Andres dyno plot. But for a NA car 13:1 is about right unless you have some special stuff done to the engine to handle the heat like the 1st gen Honda Insight. 15:1 on full throttle up to 5500 is rather lean. If/when I get my car tunes I am going to have a meter in it so I can monitor the stuff.

I am not claiming to be a tuning expert, but this just seems really off to me.
 
Hmm I wonder, Piasini which is what Dynotronics uses and the Texas addresses are in the same town as Dynotronics - what are the odds?

ECUnleashed is its own company separate from the others, uses Piasini software. The have been using it for many years with an immaculate reputation; not sure which company is doing the reflash for Mazdasports B-Spec but is using Pisiani as well.

Andres
 
ECUnleashed is its own company separate from the others, uses Piasini software. The have been using it for many years with an immaculate reputation; not sure which company is doing the reflash for Mazdasports B-Spec but is using Pisiani as well.

Andres

No it's not

Then Piasini file was what we were using up until about 1.5 years ago. We had a wonderful relationship with them, until the MX5s started blowing rods out the side of the block . Further investigation showed huge amounts of detonation under full load. Once we started dissecting the rom here at our office, we found that what they were doing was a bit questionable.

Suffice to say, we don't offer the file for the Mazda 2 from them (or any other), and all our tuning is done in house.
 
If you are doing a dyno pull your tune should hold a pretty constant A/F ratio. My miata fluctuates maybe +/- 0.1 when I am doing pulls so it should be consistent which is what it is in Andres dyno plot. But for a NA car 13:1 is about right unless you have some special stuff done to the engine to handle the heat like the 1st gen Honda Insight. 15:1 on full throttle up to 5500 is rather lean. If/when I get my car tunes I am going to have a meter in it so I can monitor the stuff.

I am not claiming to be a tuning expert, but this just seems really off to me.

Here's what's going on...

The two runs have different starting rpms. The AFR changes when the ECU decides to go open loop, which is based on a number of factors, one of which appears to be time at wide open throttle. I played with this a LOT on my car. The reason this is important is that the 2 makes best power close to 13:1, which is richer than the emissions-optimal 14.7:1(or higher) that it runs in closed loop. Closed loop means that it is varying the fueling based on the O2 sensors outputs to achieve that 14.7:1. Open loop means it ignores the O2 sensor and simply calculates the fuel based on what's specified in the ECU maps. This is where the tune has a chance to make more power (plus more aggressive ignition timing and cam timing).

What this means is that to correctly compare two dyno runs, you need to be extra careful in starting them at the same rpm and punching the throttle the same way every time. Two runs in a row should be made in each configuration to verify this. Your AFR plot should have the same basic transition point in each one, or you weren't consistent.

Since the "after tune" run had a higher transition point, you might actually be making more power down lower when compared to the "before" graph which started lower.

Hope that helps.

Edit: Hey Joe...are you doing the B Spec approved tune? or is that someone else?
 
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