Fiji Mazda3
Member
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- 2014 Ford Focus ST
The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working
- Thread starter THE Phen
- Start date
princess peach
Member
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- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
haven't been able to work on it?
No speed bleeders - just the stock fittings. I use a Motive pressure bleeder and I've brought the pressure at the resevoir anywhere from 5-25 psi. Because of the positive pressure there shouldn't be any way for air to get sucked back into the lines. The Motive bleeder usually works great and allows me to bleed all four corners by myself in under 30 minutes. I went from a generic fluid ti ATE super blue so I knew when the lines were flushed so I'm not sure how air is still in there. I didn't check after the first but after the second MC bleed I could move the piston <1/16" usually all my strength with the ports capped. With the MC back on the car and the ports capped I was still getting good resistance. Only when I reinstalled the lines does the pedal get squishy.
This is what I'm afraid of as there's always horror stories of new, aftermarket MC's being bad. I would think that since the MC is holding pressure once bled this isn't the case though.
I've got a bunch more theories (see my build thread).
I can see that going very badly.Tow it behind the Escape.
Nope, too busy with moving and house stuff. Probably not until after Mid-Ohio.
princess peach
Member
- :
- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
its just sad that you want to get rid of it
99% my fault but I just feel even with taking it back to stock it's still going to be somewhat unreliable for a DD. Plus I've decided to stick with the Camaro as my only project car.
Old fashioned way works well. If you have a helper, no need to spend the money on equipment if you don't have to.
I'm going to try once more with the Motive bleeder. I'm going to get the car off jack stands and only raise the corner being bled, bring the reservoir pressure to 15 psi, let it sit for a few minutes (to check for leaks), and then very slowly bleed that corner until the reservoir is half empty. I'll do that for all four corners and if the pedal is still mushy I'll get my wife to help and do it the old fashion way.
I never messed with speed bleeders. I like the Motive pressure bleeder. Think of a pressurized lawn sprayer but instead of the sprary attachment it has a tube that connects to a cap that replaces the one on your MC reservoir. You fill the tank with brake fluid (or you cna leave it empty - just watch the reservoir!) and then pump it to add pressure. The pressure forces the new fluid into the MC and pressurizes the system. Then bleed each corner as usual. Before all this crap I could fill the tank, bring the pressure up to 15 psi, and bleed all four corners by myself in under 30 minutes. If you're creative you can probably make one of these things yourself but they're only like $30.
I'm looking into getting a power bleeder. I rarely have a helper so the ability to do it by myself would be awesome.
I need to do a full flush of the brake fluids and get some new fluid in there. I know the ATE Super Blue can be purchased in 2 colors so you know when the old fluid is completely flushed. Does anyone know if Wilwood EXP 600 brake fluid has the same? I'm not sure how I could tell when the old fluid is completely flushed without it being a different color. Anyone know of a trick to easily tell this?
I also need to install my Corksport SS lines first. Last time Evan and I tried to install them, we almost stripped the flare nut because it wasn't coming loose. I think some people have suggested using a torch to heat it up a little bit. If that doesn't work, they say use vise grips and pray LOL
I need to do a full flush of the brake fluids and get some new fluid in there. I know the ATE Super Blue can be purchased in 2 colors so you know when the old fluid is completely flushed. Does anyone know if Wilwood EXP 600 brake fluid has the same? I'm not sure how I could tell when the old fluid is completely flushed without it being a different color. Anyone know of a trick to easily tell this?
I also need to install my Corksport SS lines first. Last time Evan and I tried to install them, we almost stripped the flare nut because it wasn't coming loose. I think some people have suggested using a torch to heat it up a little bit. If that doesn't work, they say use vise grips and pray LOL
Like I said in your build thread, Jon, double check the clutch line if it's connected to the MC as well.
#2, I thought of you when doing my brake lines a couple weekends ago, the first one started to strip. Son of a! I just put some Visegrips on it and all is well. Soak the fittings with some PB Blaster for the rest of the week before trying them this weekend.
#2, I thought of you when doing my brake lines a couple weekends ago, the first one started to strip. Son of a! I just put some Visegrips on it and all is well. Soak the fittings with some PB Blaster for the rest of the week before trying them this weekend.
Haha I may try the visegrip/pb blaster method
Maybe the old fluid would look almost dirty or off-colored compared to the new fluid.
The new Wilwood 600 is almost clear. The old fluid will look more yellowish. Get some clear tubing and you'll see the difference when the old fluid is being flushed and the new fluid is coming through.
Will, does the ATE change color over time, like a darker blue or anything?
I went with the Wilwood 600 since it's available locally at Summit on the shelf if I get another seized caliper and have to swap them out and re-bleed that line.
Will, does the ATE change color over time, like a darker blue or anything?
I went with the Wilwood 600 since it's available locally at Summit on the shelf if I get another seized caliper and have to swap them out and re-bleed that line.
Sorry, missed your post in my thread. The clutch MC is a completely separate unit so no luck there.
I've always used the "box" end of a wrench to do brakes. It may not be possible on other cars but on the RX-7 I slip the wrench over the fitting, then slide my brake bleeding tube over the port.
