Maxx Mazda's 2011 Build Thread

Got the engine together today. Picked up all my Mazda parts, basically every gasket in the engine is new, new oil squirters, valve shims, and some other stuff:

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Even though the block was clean, I wanted to clean it again for good measure. Outside it went for a good scrub:

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Once inside, the block was meticulously dried with a blow gun. Took me about 20 minutes - no joke. This is about halfway through:

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When building an engine, you can't be clean enough. The garage floor was wet to keep dust down, and I put on a fancy pants clean lab coat and rubber gloves. I use Federal Mogul for my assembly lube of choice:

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With the block clean and dry, i installed the bearings and thrust washers, lubed everything profusely, and installed the crank:

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Using ARP moly lube, the main caps were installed and torqued using a 3 step procedure, in the proper sequence. I checked to make sure the crank spun freely - it did! Also checked crankshaft thrust play, it was within limits.

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The rings were installed onto the pistons, and the bearings into the rods:

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Hard to see, but when installing the wristpins, make sure the circlip opening does no coincide with the opening:

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Pistons installed onto their rods, ringed, bearing'd, ready to go in.

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The pistons were given an oil bath:

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Using a ring compressor and the tail of a plastic mallet, the piston is tapped into the cylinder. I don't know why, but everytime I build an engine, I find the feeling of this step to be very satisfying when the piston finally drops into place.

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All 4 pistons in, and torqued onto the crank using PLENTY of assembly lube. Excuse the gunk left from the mallet handle. It's cleaned later.

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4 new oil jets, ready to be pressed into place:

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#1 oil jet pressed in, and clearanced properly from both the piston and the crank.

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Jets #1 and #2 in position:

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All 4 jets pressed in and clearanced:

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Next, I like to button up the bottom end before putting the head on. I started with the oil pump. New O-rings were used, and a new main seal was installed. Silicone applied and torqued down:

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I was able to sneak the rear main seal on with the engine still on the stand:

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Next up is the MBSP, silicone applied:

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MBSP torqued down, oil pickup installed. Although I am using the AWR oil pan, I DO NOT use the spacer as it's too long and will end up smooshing the pickup. As it sits, the screen JUST touches the bottom of the pan.

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Oil pan installed and torqued down:

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Topside all cleaned up:

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Cometic head gasket installed over the ARP studs

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Final look at the head:

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Head on and torqued following a 3 stage process, using the sequence described in the shop manual. I'm glad I went with a silver block!

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That's as far as I got today, didn't end up starting until noon. Tomorrow I should have all the ancillary stuff bolted up, and the engine done.
 
looking great! keep up the good work. is your turbo oil return line bung something special made by you? its much different than the basic bung on my awr pan.
 
looking great! keep up the good work. is your turbo oil return line bung something special made by you? its much different than the basic bung on my awr pan.

Yes. I didn't feel comfortable threading into the thin pan, so I fabbed up a block, which is bolted through to the other side, and sealed twice. Now I have a full 1" of thread to go into. The other return on the side is for the oil pressure regulator. The brass sensor by the drain plug is my oil temperature sensor. The most accurate oil temp reading is taken from inside the pan, not from an adapter block.
 
Well, I'm STILL waiting on valve shims, they didn't come in today. The parts guy forgot to order them on my long grocery list I guess, so the engine sits unfinished... Piss me off! Anyway, I decided to bolt up what I could.

Bolted on the water neck, thermostat housing, water pump, A/C bracket...

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Timing belt tensioner and pulley, crank position sensor...

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And on the backside, the oil to water MSP oil cooler, alternator bracket, knock sensor, oil pressure sender, and oil filter adapter plate.

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I was going to have my Signature oil catch can powdercoated, but I decided to paint it instead. One of the better jobs I've done, the pics don't do it justice! It is SHY-NEEEE!!!

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For those that don't know this can is a sealed unit, with a built in check valve, that will allow blowby to enter the can under vacuum only. This is why I went with an AN fitting in place of the stock PCV valve, as this in essence now becomes my PCV valve. This is NOT just a vent can.

Hopefully my parts are in tomorrow, so I can get this head all done and get the engine timed!
 
Man if you were closer to SFL you would have a engine building job. Nice work!!
 
Only had a bit of time to work on it today, my valve shims are STILL not in.

Decided to remount my Haltech RA-10 reluctor adapter on the firewall. The RA-10 takes the analog reluctor signals from my cam position sensor (home) and crank position sensor (trigger) and converts the analog sine wave signal into a much cleaner square wave "digital" signal, that is now output directly to my Haltech E6X standalone as a hall effect signal. The Haltech can use a reluctor signal directly, but having the RA-10 will provide a very clean interference free signal at even extreme RPM's.

You'll notice I changed it from the ugly silver that Haltech sells it in, to a much nicer matte black. All wires were crimped into new pins, and then heatshrinked individually:

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Then the bundle was loomed, and one big piece of heat shrink was used to seal it all off:

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Yes, this is probably more work than is ever nessicary, but there is no such thing as "too good" for me. I'm keeping this build top-notch. A ground wire was run to a standoff directly below the unit. I made sure to strip the paint to ensure a good connection. The ground wire was heatshrinked as well.

The finished product. Can't hardly notice it? Good. That's the point.

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Man, that block looks nice painted silver like that. Got me rethinking whether I want to chuck the can of black paint that came with my kit and get some satin aluminum instead. Just looks so clean.
 
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