Maybe? At first I thought it was oil but after looking and feeling around that is the only place I could see/feel it. The oil pan is nice and dry as well as the areas around it so I'm gonna say tranny unless it's oil and creeping down along the backside of the engine.
Not trying to change the subject from Jeffs mystery leak but...
Anyone find an upgrade for the rear P5 endlinks? I'd like to pick some up soon and will snag the Ford Escape front links but was hoping there was a good OEM style upgrade for the rears as well.
What's the problem Jeff? What are you trying to diagnose? Bad MPG's?
That looks very much like the axle seal, unless oil is somehow leaking down the back of the engine from the valve cover...
It's not the hardest thing to change, it'll probably take you an afternoon. For the time being you should check the level of your tranny fluid and top it up. I wouldn't drive the car much until you fix that.
Not trying to change the subject from Jeffs mystery leak but...
Anyone find an upgrade for the rear P5 endlinks? I'd like to pick some up soon and will snag the Ford Escape front links but was hoping there was a good OEM style upgrade for the rears as well.
Yeah....just going back thru my fuelly though and mpgs aren't really too far off persay but something just seems amiss. For example I filled the tank today when I ran out to the mall for lunch. Drove back to the office and then home, about 34 miles on the tank so far and the needle is now below the 'F'. When I left the house this morning for work, the needle was just above the 1/4 tank line and when I pulled into the gas station, again around 35 miles or so driven, the needle was on the second line below the 1/4 line???.
I need to get back under there and Phen-torque them bitches down.
Stupid question, but could you have a brake that's dragging?
I ask because my front driver side brake is dragging real bad, I can only imagine my mileage has gone to s***. Taking off from a stop feels like I've got 5 fatties in the car, but I suspect that you'd notice it less with a slushbox. Next time you take a 20min trip somewhere feel the temperature of all of your rims.
How do you torque something with a hammer? Zing! Just kidding, buddy.
Yeah, that's kinda why I want to stay away from AWR endlinks and stick with the OEM style. I've been on my OEM rear links and the bigass 22mm Progress bar for 3 years now without problems so I just went with another set from RockAuto.
And while I was under the car I saw this...
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Not stupid at all and I haven't checked the temps of the wheels but I have visually looked at the rotors and they all look good. Last year I had a rear caliper hanging up and it was easy to diagnose simply by looking at the rotor. Next time I drive to work I'll do just that.
lol....he does like his BFH! I just know he has always said he never had a problem with the AWRs as he torqued them down and then kept going. I got a good deal on them and the bar so figured I'd give them a try.
Put the supercharger kit up for sale. Picking up the SpeedCircuit turbo kit.
thats either an axle seal or the rear main seal is leaking. Axle seal is cheap and relatively easy to replace (depending on how much the rust hinders you) so i would start there first and clean the area off then recheck it
Yep... Impact guns are your friend for AWR endlinks. Even ask Rob. He ran them forever on his P5. That's who taught me. I think he called Tony at AWR and even asked him, and that was his response. Awesome endlinks, decent price, just for the love of God, install them right or yes, you will hear them clunk all the time. But, when you think of it... AWR builds parts for race cars... that really never see the street... so they don't have to worry about the bumps that we do.
Put the supercharger kit up for sale. Picking up the SpeedCircuit turbo kit.