AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

i got some 565s and it pegs 10.0 during warm up. i never let it warm up enough to see if it fixes itself after closed loop.. but im just wondering it i can tune the warm up afr. i guess ill find out tomorrow
 
you can tune anything, just hook up the lap top when the car is warming up, and look at which cells the car is running at (rpm/vac)
and then lean those out a few points
 
got it. afr is in the high 13s warming up now. i tried to make it a bit leaner but the car would stall out
 
got it. afr is in the high 13s warming up now. i tried to make it a bit leaner but the car would stall out

With my 440s the stock ecu is capable of pulling just enough fuel to keep the afr just right by itself. The short term fuel trims are almost maxed out at around -20-25% (ecu range is +/- 25%), though. So with the the 565s I'm assuming that the ecu will not be able to cope by itself.

From personal experience, one has to make the change to the closed loop AFC table in a very fine and gradual manner; small to bigger from idle to open loop switch over point. Starting at idle, you should pull fuel by only .1 or .2 points and gradually pull more towards whatever you have the open loop switch point set at (default of 1.1 psi)
 
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I thing I'm using a modified version of your 440 map.

Running good but idle is lean. Like 17-18. I just changed the coils, wires, plugs, injectors-to 440s, not sure what else to look at.
 
I thing I'm using a modified version of your 440 map.

Running good but idle is lean. Like 17-18. I just changed the coils, wires, plugs, injectors-to 440s, not sure what else to look at.

What are the AFC map values at 500 rpm cells?
 
Well, what I recommend is to let the ECU control the 440s in closed loop by leaving all of those cells unmodified with a value of 10. It does a great job with them after a few days of learning.

I've switched to a NA ecu since then and think that I've created a very smooth and clean 440cc map for it. Once I work out an "inconsistency" problem the map will be posted here for all to try.
 
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If your primary O2 sensor hasn't been changed yet, have you already tried soaking it in brake cleaner? Also, check all of the grounding points under the hood, the ECU is very sensitive to changes with grounding.
 
I have a grounding kit. I'll try and clean and test the o2 sensors. Thanks.

Pm me if you have any more ideas.
 
A USB OBDII diagnostics scanner would be a very good investment if you can afford one. It'll tell you everything that you need to know about all of the sensors. One can be had for about $60 these days. Pair it with the PCMSCAN software and you have a very powerful diagnostics tool.
 
If I were to run a map with all 10s should I expect the car to run like there was no afc installed or is it still going to have some influence? I'm trying to figure out if my unit is working correctly and thought this might be easier than actually uninstalling it. Any input?
 
If I were to run a map with all 10s should I expect the car to run like there was no afc installed or is it still going to have some influence? I'm trying to figure out if my unit is working correctly and thought this might be easier than actually uninstalling it. Any input?

all 10s should effectively cause it to be inactive, assuming it is operating correctly.
 
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