Boostin Prob PLEASE HELP!!!!

engine bay, i run a K&N filter directly on the turbo
it could help to wrap my hot-pipe though, since it runs right next to the DP

and i doubt it would make much of a difference where the filter is located, since the air has to pass through the hot turbo regardless
 
yeah thats true, i might try it just for giggles.

i would try heat wrapping the portion next the the DP, i believe the problem could be that FMIC pipe routing always directly passes an exhaust piece.
 
i have a corksport rad and it made no difference other than coolor oil temps, the hesitation is still there on hot days. i was planning on routing the hot pipe away from the exhuast manifold, with most FMIC setups the hot pipe runs right next to the exhaust mani, possibly clocking the compressor side of the turbo and running it under or somehow route it around the driver side could eliminate the soak.

Do you have a water temp gauge? If so, what are your readings? Also, do you have the SSAFC because unfortunately it appears that if you don't you'll get hesitation. Lower or high intake temps will not cure/cause hesitation, poor afr's are what cause it. Only some form of air/fuel controller will fix that problem.

@ js protege - lol I just wanted to check... Some people do some weird stuff sometimes. What kind of readings are you getting on your WB when your car bogs?

After some research I've quickly decided against removing the t-stat but I might pick up a lower temp (170*F) one. Also I think I'm going to try to get some reflective heat wrap from home depot or something and see if that helps. Hopefully it does as this is only an intermittent problem for me.
 
id rather wrap the IC pipe to be honest, the DP is SS and i heard wrapping stainless makes it crack quick, results will be the same either way i beleive
 
Do you have a water temp gauge? If so, what are your readings? Also, do you have the SSAFC because unfortunately it appears that if you don't you'll get hesitation. Lower or high intake temps will not cure/cause hesitation, poor afr's are what cause it. Only some form of air/fuel controller will fix that problem.

@ js protege - lol I just wanted to check... Some people do some weird stuff sometimes. What kind of readings are you getting on your WB when your car bogs?

After some research I've quickly decided against removing the t-stat but I might pick up a lower temp (170*F) one. Also I think I'm going to try to get some reflective heat wrap from home depot or something and see if that helps. Hopefully it does as this is only an intermittent problem for me.

no i don't have a AFC and no water temp gauge but i assume the coolant temp dropped because the oil temp dropped. i could see how a cooler thermostat could possibly help. but what motor runs a 170 thermostat and fits the FSDE, at autozone they have OEM and 190.

i think this problem is a combination of heat soak and tuning, for me at least.
 
Do you have a water temp gauge? If so, what are your readings? Also, do you have the SSAFC because unfortunately it appears that if you don't you'll get hesitation. Lower or high intake temps will not cure/cause hesitation, poor afr's are what cause it. Only some form of air/fuel controller will fix that problem.

@ js protege - lol I just wanted to check... Some people do some weird stuff sometimes. What kind of readings are you getting on your WB when your car bogs?

After some research I've quickly decided against removing the t-stat but I might pick up a lower temp (170*F) one. Also I think I'm going to try to get some reflective heat wrap from home depot or something and see if that helps. Hopefully it does as this is only an intermittent problem for me.
i haven hooked up the guage jus yet, jus put in the sensor in exhaust lol but as soon as i do ill post up... im sure im rich as im on the stock tune until i get the afc in..
 
id rather wrap the IC pipe to be honest, the DP is SS and i heard wrapping stainless makes it crack quick, results will be the same either way i beleive

with the exhaust you wanna heat wrap... hotter exhaust gasses will flow faster... heat wrapping the ic pipe? why do you wanna keep the heat in... if anything put some kinda heat reflecting material or get it coated
 
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with the exhaust you wanna heat wrap... hotter exhaust gasses will flow faster... heat wrapping the ic pipe? why do you wanna keep the heat in... if anything put some kinda heat reflecting material or get it coated

he makes a valid point. (yes)
 
i may just save up the money and get the DP ceramic coated, i really dont like using heat wrap on exhaust parts...just a personal thing

and i would be wrapping a pretty small section of the IC piping, like 6in., to keep the heat of the exhaust from radiating to the IC pipe
 
i may just save up the money and get the DP ceramic coated, i really dont like using heat wrap on exhaust parts...just a personal thing

and i would be wrapping a pretty small section of the IC piping, like 6in., to keep the heat of the exhaust from radiating to the IC pipe

that may work... i do believe the heat wrap does keep the heat away also... i have a small section of my coolant hose wrapped because my dp keeps burning through it...

heat wrapping the dp isn't a bad idea though... i'm the 3rd person to own the kit i have and the dp is doing fine wrapped with no cracks... can't say the same thing for my manifold though... it's ceramic coated and it's starting to crack... that's with out heat wrap
 
wrap3.jpg

her my 19.99 wrap from orchards lol..
but it works as far as wrapping the exhaust dont do the mani i warped mine due to bad wrapping..
I would wrap the j pipe though..
 
oh and most of the heat is from the fan pulling air through the engine bay. at one point was going to make a heat shield that would split the engine bay in 2 but that would be one big project. easier to wrap the pipes. also a plus is my maf is no longer being cooked and is getting turned brittle due to heat. you can see the wires comeing out..my biggest embaresment is my warped mani she screams till she gets hot then she closes off and is good to me. I also orderd my new muffler the aero-turbine muffler. can I use the stock resenater.. I cant see why not?
 
i tried spacing the hood to releive some heat, turns out there are clearance problems with the fenders so thats out
took out the rubber seal at the end of the engine bay to hope to create a suction so that the hot air is sucked out and cool air sucked in

i really want a vented hood!
 
no i don't have a AFC and no water temp gauge but i assume the coolant temp dropped because the oil temp dropped. i could see how a cooler thermostat could possibly help. but what motor runs a 170 thermostat and fits the FSDE, at autozone they have OEM and 190.

i think this problem is a combination of heat soak and tuning, for me at least.

Aparently this 170*F thermostat should fit. Napa part #154-1305

with the exhaust you wanna heat wrap... hotter exhaust gasses will flow faster... heat wrapping the ic pipe? why do you wanna keep the heat in... if anything put some kinda heat reflecting material or get it coated

Definitely reflective heat wrap on the IC pipes. Home Depot should sell some for around $10 thats good for up to 260*F and I believe DEI makes some thats good up to 1100*F I think its around $35. And if you really want to go all out many of the EVO guys are using gold foil reflective heat wrap, which goes for $150 for a rather small portion.
 
ok so today it was 103 and i was driving around, i have this problem my car does, kinda stutters, like only 2 cylinders are firing, but it only does it when its really hot and right when i take off from a light
i have a 12" slim fan wired to a switch inside the cabin so i can turn it on/off when i get in traffic

i noticed that when i turned it on to keep my car cool, the car would stutter VERY bad,
but on the way home, i didnt turn it on at all, i never really stopped at a light for too long, and the car didnt stutter at all

so what im getting at is, when the fan kicks on, it blows hot air at the pipes, the pipes get hot and hot air enters the cylinders, which doesnt combust very well causing my stuttering and everyone elses "hesitation"

so ceramic coating the pipes or heat wrapping the pipes will def. help alot
 
ok so today it was 103 and i was driving around, i have this problem my car does, kinda stutters, like only 2 cylinders are firing, but it only does it when its really hot and right when i take off from a light
i have a 12" slim fan wired to a switch inside the cabin so i can turn it on/off when i get in traffic

i noticed that when i turned it on to keep my car cool, the car would stutter VERY bad,
but on the way home, i didnt turn it on at all, i never really stopped at a light for too long, and the car didnt stutter at all

so what im getting at is, when the fan kicks on, it blows hot air at the pipes, the pipes get hot and hot air enters the cylinders, which doesnt combust very well causing my stuttering and everyone elses "hesitation"

so ceramic coating the pipes or heat wrapping the pipes will def. help alot

Gonna get my turbohoses IC pipes coated when they get here. I'm also getting a greddy flange welded on since I've just got this Greddy type S sitting on my desk :p

I didn't wanna remove my exhaust mani AGAIN to get it coated, so I had my friend put some ceramic header wrap on. I didn't really notice a change.
 
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