I experienced this same sort of problem today. It seems to be somewhat intermittent though. It happened today (34*C) but didn't happen on days that were even hotter than today.
After driving for a little over 20 minutes, I was boosting as I was getting on the highway and couldn't even get past an 18 wheeler! It bogged pretty hard and my afr's were a dead 10 ofcourse... And then even in 5th gear if I hit boost quickly it would be pretty much powerless and it would read 10 afr. It shouldn't be hesitation because I have an SSAFC running the superstock map right now. Thinking it was heat soak (although it shouldn't be since I have a FMIC) I was feeling how hot the pipes were, so: at the bottom of the cold pipe it was only warm but up higher near the TB the cold pipe was almost as hot as the hot pipe!
So I'm thinking that must have a lot to do with this problem. But how do we cure it? These cars run so damn hot! A ron davis rad would probably help a lot but thats a lot of $$.
sparks and wires are brand new, coilpacks are fairly new, bout a year old ill say...Electrical components can function perfectly fine cold, but when they get too hot, they can experience problems. How new are all of your coil packs, plug wires, etc...? Any cel?
i don notice that sometimes the pipe connecting to the throttle body is really hot but even at night when its real cool out side and the car is fully warmed up, it still does it!!! and the pipe is cool...check coils then look into wrapping your cold pipe. if you touch the exit pipe from your intercooler and then touch the pipe conected to your throttle there might be as much as a 80 degree differnce. thats 1 hp for every 10 degrees..
thats my same question!! lol everyone i talked too is lost on this one..my car does this too, but my pipes get pretty hot inside the engine bay, i really have no idea why they do this
ive never heard of another car having these problems, why do proteges?
even when i have the code cleared and there is no check engine code, it still does it.. and even if it was in limp mode... why would the car be perfect on a cold start up? do we run on an open loop system when cold?? and i have the stock msp turbo and runnin stock boost at the momentum...hey people do you want your answer? here it is: YOU DO NOT PUT THE WIDEBAND IN PLACE OF YOUR O2 SENSOR! sorry to come at you like that. look your ecu still reads from the o2 sensor and when you get a CEL from an o2 sensor, the ecu goes into LIMP mode which dumps excess fuel into the cylinders. now what im getting at here is this...you could be dumping far too much fuel into the cylinders, even with the ssafc. take the wideband out and put your o2 sensor back in there. the reset the ecu. let us know if that fixes the problem. your supposed to have a bung welded in atleast 36 inches from the turbo. you still use both 02 sensors.
OR
what turbo are you running with what psi? you could be suffering from fuel cut, but im almost 100% sure its the o2 sensor.
um...hey people do you want your answer? here it is: YOU DO NOT PUT THE WIDEBAND IN PLACE OF YOUR O2 SENSOR! sorry to come at you like that. look your ecu still reads from the o2 sensor and when you get a CEL from an o2 sensor, the ecu goes into LIMP mode which dumps excess fuel into the cylinders. now what im getting at here is this...you could be dumping far too much fuel into the cylinders, even with the ssafc. take the wideband out and put your o2 sensor back in there. the reset the ecu. let us know if that fixes the problem. your supposed to have a bung welded in atleast 36 inches from the turbo. you still use both 02 sensors.
OR
what turbo are you running with what psi? you could be suffering from fuel cut, but im almost 100% sure its the o2 sensor.
okay so that throws out the possible o2 being the prob.. what r yur afr's? and mods??Erm, what about me? I'm not running a wideband. I have the O2 sensors in place. I also reset my ECU today and changed the plugs. No difference.