Hypertech Max Energy Sport CAI Update Now Available!

[Darth Vader]

OK, I'm in on this thing now, too. I just ordered it. Will report how it works on a more fully modded car.

I have an AEM CAI + TIP, a CS downpipe and RP, a Forge, and a manual boost controller and ITV 22s. Plus, I have a DH for datalogs.

This car blasts off like a bull with banderillas in its butt as it is. Power does tail off comparatively fast up high. Controlling spikes/creep has been an issue in the past and, smacking the load cap plus, the throttle only opening ~60% under WOT.

Here's a laugh, I think. The 135i can have a Dinan Tune flashed. It's admittedly very effective but, it's over $2000 for 20 minutes work where I live; it's a friggin' license to print money, that. Yeah, yeah, it's got a warranty but, re and re the stock tune with this box is easy, too.

 

[MAZDARacing2007]

Im anxious to hear how it goes, keep us posted

 

[spdjnke]

Hey Chris,

Are the units specific from brand of car to another?
Can I buy a unit say for a G35 and get the download from Hypertech site
and have it work on my MS3? or .....

 

[Jackis]

OK, I'm in on this thing now, too. I just ordered it. Will report how it works on a more fully modded car.

Wow, nice, I will be looking for a report from you then! Interesting, how it goes with MBC...

 

[spdjnke]

Wow, nice, I will be looking for a report from you then! Interesting, how it goes with MBC...

have you had luck with a MBC? all the people that I've read whom have tried a MBC on the MS3 had no success..

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

Hey Chris,

Are the units specific from brand of car to another?
Can I buy a unit say for a G35 and get the download from Hypertech site
and have it work on my MS3? or .....

Yes, they are brand specific. The hardware is different for each one. The Mazda programmer will only work on a Mazda. They are all priced the same, so no advantage to buying one for another make!

Chris

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

I Had it installed for 75 miles, or so. The change with the tune is really noticeable in 1st & 2nd gears, and very nice in the rest. You know that feeling you have that 1st & 2nd run out of steam very quickly - Gone !!
Car pulls very hard right up to 6k. I went passed that a couple of times, and it keeps pulling better than stock, but I prefer to shift there. the overall throttle response is greatly improved. which makes my next paragraph really irritating !!!

Now for the not so good news. Threw a P2188 dtc on the way home tonight. First code I've ever had on the car. Searched the forums, and found to rich at idle. Go out to the car start it up, and change my DH over to ltft & -17 -19 at idle. Remove the flash & drive around for 20 minutes, or so, and right back to -7 where it was before. I have the K&N Typhoon. It looks like there might be some kind of maf calibration issue maybe. Anyone else running this intake with the Hypertech ?

Mods are K&N Typhoon - Magnaflow CBE

Leadf00t,

I got your PM, see response. This is the first time I've run into any issues with our tuning having any type of DTC's. We don't change any of the tuning at idle. That usually affects emissions, and no effect on performance. I suspect it is something to do with the MAF calibration. We'll figure it out, and keep everyone posted.

Thanks.

Chris

 

[Darth Vader]

have you had luck with a MBC? all the people that I've read whom have tried a MBC on the MS3 had no success..

That's probably b/c they didn't work at it. An MBC hooked up in the traditional way, at the comp scroll port, won't work because that signal is restricted with a pill. The stock EBCS doesn't need a full signal b/c its boosted. Hook an MBC to one of these:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=TP&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=

at the hot side pipe or hook it to the BPV piping, which worked for me and didn't require a tap. The Turbosmart Boost T is the only game in town here, totally worth the money.

Now, Chris says I should not use an MBC with the item we're discussing...I'll probably take that advice when the item gets here.

What I love about the MBC is it ditches the low boost in low gears crapola on this car and once set, it calms down the boost spikes alot. Problem is, it doesn't do anything about the load cut I hit and I have to fiddle with it in changing atmo conditions, (not that it is hard to do that).

 

[spdjnke]

Yes, they are brand specific. The hardware is different for each one. The Mazda programmer will only work on a Mazda. They are all priced the same, so no advantage to buying one for another make!

Chris

I see, thank you for the heads up. I will be ordering my today.

 

[spdjnke]

Hey Chris,

Really quick, I was wondering since COBB recommends going with 1 step colder plugs with their AP because of the added 2 psi or so, do you guys think with your reflash we should go with colder plugs? are there benefits if I'm already running the colder plugs or should I go back to stock with the reflash.?

Thanks.

 

[Jackis]

Now, Chris says I should not use an MBC with the item we're discussing...I'll probably take that advice when the item gets here.

Yes, I've heard the same, that's why I was wondering about MBC+tune. I'm also thinking about going Hypertech, and tuners around here (who correct maps on the fly, not via COBB or smth similar) say that when you tune, you don't need MBC or EBC, just because tuning "ignores" their values... Not sure I'm totally correct, because I'm not a tech guy

have you had luck with a MBC? all the people that I've read whom have tried a MBC on the MS3 had no success..

Nope, that's why I asked Darth Vader, cause he is one of the guys who has solid MBC set-up w/o any problems, and about week or two ago I was asking him about how to make solid MBC set-up... But when you tune - seems that MBC is just not needed.

 

[leadf00t]

Leadf00t,

I got your PM, see response. This is the first time I've run into any issues with our tuning having any type of DTC's. We don't change any of the tuning at idle. That usually affects emissions, and no effect on performance. I suspect it is something to do with the MAF calibration. We'll figure it out, and keep everyone posted.

Thanks.

Chris

I replied to your pm. Just wanted everyone else to know it looks lik a stripped bolt on my bpv is the likely culprit for my dtc. I had a spare cold pipe on hand, and re-installed the tune. Everything seems ok, but I am still seeing ltft's at -12.5 -13 at idle. So not exactly where we would like them to be, but not going to cause a check engine light. will keep everyone updated on my progress.

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

Hey Chris,

Really quick, I was wondering since COBB recommends going with 1 step colder plugs with their AP because of the added 2 psi or so, do you guys think with your reflash we should go with colder plugs? are there benefits if I'm already running the colder plugs or should I go back to stock with the reflash.?

Thanks.

The Hypertech tune was developed using the stock heat range plug.

The reasoning for going with a colder plug is to reduce the chance of detonation. This typically happens at the higher RPM ranges, with tunes that hold the boost pressure steady out to redline. The stock turbo reaches it's peak efficiency around 6,000 RPM. Holding the boost steady beyond this point overspins the turbo, and superheats the air. This can cause detonation, and the ECU will attempt to control it by retarding the timing (knock retard). By running a colder plug, the theory is that it will help reduce combustion temps, and reduce the detonation, and subsequently the knock retard.

The Hypertech tune optimizes the turbo airflow by adjusting the boost level in the higher RPM's to maintain efficiency. Peak boost with the Hypertech tune is around 17-18 psi, but we roll it off at the higher RPM's to around 14 psi. This keeps the exhaust gas temps in a safer range, which reduces the chance for detonation.

More info here. .

 

[spdjnke]

Hey Chris,

Thanks for the quick reply, I guess for the time being I will just leave them in since they seem to be working out okay with no negative effects, I should be getting my HyperTech unit by the end of the week so after loading it, I'll see if it does anything "weird" if not then I think I should be okay running the 1 step colder plugs? But based on your answer above, it's up to me to either keep running the step colder plugs or go back to stock, since that's what you guys used to setup the tune.

 

[Darth Vader]

Ok, a colder plug relieves the chances of pre-ignition but, not necessarily detonation.

Pre-ignition comes from the mixture lighting off before the plug fires it, because of hot spot in the chamber, sometimes the plug itself, or a chunk of red-hot carbon on a piston top or WHY. Colder plugs allow more heat to be transferred to the head and eliminating the plug temp as the source of pre-ignition.

Detonation is a spontaneous explosion of end gasses AFTER the ignition of the mixture by the plug. It is caused by heat and pressure that the remaining end gases lack sufficient octane to resist and blammo, up they go. Colder plugs MAY help this, by not providing another hot spot in the chamber but, mostly, it's the heat and pressure of the normal combustion process that sets det off, not the plug so, no help there with colder plugs.

Detonation isn't necessarily destructive, engines can often live for long periods with light det, some are even designed to accept this, like the oft used "fast burn' combustion chambers that used to be popular on smog motors. Turbo cars generally don't use such tricks, because they are compressing the intake charge far above atmo before it hits the intake valve anyway. An engine like this one has the processing power in the ECM to constantly adjust timing on the fly so, little dashes of KR are going to show up all over, as it tries to make the most out of the situation.

Pre-ignition murders engines fast, because all the way through the compressive stroke, the motors trying to push a ball of rapidly expanding gas. This super-strains rotating assembly bits and bashes ring lands down, etc.

I think it's important to understand the concepts involved, with all these words flying about.

 

[spdjnke]

So based on this statement, I wonder if it's better that I go back to the stock plugs, I would hate to have warped heads caused by excess heat being transferred to the heads by the plugs.???

Colder plugs allow more heat to be transferred to the head and eliminating the plug temp as the source of pre-ignition.

 

[Darth Vader]

There's no risk of that. Head warpage requires sustained high temps from coolant loss, for example. The head's built to take the heat transfer from any plug without issue. Keep your eye on the big picture and the details will work out. Get lost in trivialities and you can miss the main point entirely.

Run the hottest plug you can run without pre-igniting the mixture or having them melt will net you best power.

 

[meicalnissyen]

So based on this statement, I wonder if it's better that I go back to the stock plugs, I would hate to have warped heads caused by excess heat being transferred to the heads by the plugs.???

Colder plugs allow more heat to be transferred to the head and eliminating the plug temp as the source of pre-ignition.

(braindead

 

[meicalnissyen]

"plug temp" is nothing more than grduated differences in the ability of the center porcelain to transfer heat to the plug body,

with the goal being a goldilocks finale


not to fouled, not to eroded


period

 

[spdjnke]

I see, well just checking to make sure, never used them before in any of my turbo cars, so wasn't sure how much heat transfer really is involved..