Mazdaspeed 3 / 6 K04 Turbo Upgrade - 330WHP!!!

weight....w/out my fat ass
 

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with respect to those that disagree - i'm sticking to my guns here - reducing backpressure on this car will get you bad turbo oil seals - the more you take out the faster they will go - most folks don't know they have the issue because they don't let the car set at idle long enough to tell or they have retained 1 high flow cat and it is filtering out the smoke - this isn't just something i've come up with over night - i'm on this forum and 3 others and to be honest of all the fourms that i've seen msf has the most detailed and technically complex threads and posted articles (unfortunately they don't have the most friendly people) but if you do some heavy reading on k04 service bulletins and users experiences they will confirm what i'm saying - if you call ken at pg he will too - so will the folks at su, cpe, and cobb - which is why almost all of them recommend using one of the dps with a high flow cat - if anyone is interested i had a long conversation on my experience with bad seals with ken and i would be happy to email the details about it to you - but trust me - is part of the smoke pcv - yes it is = can your cure some of it with a catch can - sure - will bad oil seals function ok on your car for a pretty long time - its all in the luck of the draw on just how crappy your k04 is - i toasted a brand new one fresh from the dealership replaced under warranty after driving around 100 miles
 
ok. I am just an opinion about the turbo. I have had a biggest top mount. the one that is too much for the stock tune with TBE 3.5. a mscai, And the Corksport full deal. No cats. no catch can. 43000. about twenty k with the exhaust. I drive the snockers out of the car. I am still waiting for smoke. i mean i have expected it for well twenty thou. this is moving further off track. but i still have no smoke, besides rich fuel, and never add oil. I am i an anomaly? So lets not talk about seals on a these any more.i think it is fear mongering. I know there are tons of failure out there. well at least the forum sure reports that to be true. But i will still consider it to be a manufacturing defect. Whether it be a scored shaft, a material weakness or a tolerance issue. I am the perfect candidate for oil smoke. I have let the car idle for great lengths after running super hard. i really did try to get it to smoke, short of a no cool down or proper warming before boost. i do respect everyone else's exp on this, but i am being honest as can be on this.
 
i have a buddy close by that i often talk to b/c he's further along then me in the mods - and he went for a very long time w/out smoke and the same amount of mods you have and more - it's really hit or miss and to tell you the truth it's not fear mongering unless you're the one selling car parts - it is true a total discussion on smoke from catless exhaust is getting off the point of this thread, but i will say i brought it up initially because it was my concern that the same thing would happen on this upgraded turbo b/c it's a journal bearing turbo
 
And rightly so. A justified concern. Something we all should be prepared for with this style/design of turbocharger. The fear factor i referred to was not based upon this thread but what i have seen since mid 2007. A turboback exhaust( low to no back pressure) = oil smoke. Thanks for your response and patience. I will back off as to get back to the theme of the positive side of a turbo upgrade.
 
Since we're in full thread jack....

Car weighs 3100 pounds full of fuel, w/o driver. Dragstrip certified scale.

Accelerometers? I have an older G-tech Pro. I can move that mph around 5-8 mph easily just by playing with the car. Is it really going 5-8 mph differently each time? Nope, again dragstrip verifies it reads more than 1 mph high, that's for sure, more like up to 8 by my testing and, it always reads high. ET's a bit more in the ballpark of dragstrip experiences but, mph is way off, most of the time, even though G-tech made the same 1 mph claim back then.

Useful as a tuning aid, to a degree but, like the dyno, best not make bragging points out of the absolute #s.
 
to me in car electronics are for data logging, engine management adjustment, and entertainment -
the dyno is for tuning and the drag strip is for measuring performance
 
Since we're in full thread jack....

Car weighs 3100 pounds full of fuel, w/o driver. Dragstrip certified scale.

Accelerometers? I have an older G-tech Pro. I can move that mph around 5-8 mph easily just by playing with the car. Is it really going 5-8 mph differently each time? Nope, again dragstrip verifies it reads more than 1 mph high, that's for sure, more like up to 8 by my testing and, it always reads high. ET's a bit more in the ballpark of dragstrip experiences but, mph is way off, most of the time, even though G-tech made the same 1 mph claim back then.

Useful as a tuning aid, to a degree but, like the dyno, best not make bragging points out of the absolute #s.

Hoping to end the jack! The G-Tech Pro RR I use is a current gen model and is a huge improvement over the older models. But you are correct that like dynos, absolutes should be treated with caution. Some of the absolutes like time, distance traveled are accurate and can be verified by stop watch, tach and speedometer. I'm seeing one or two mph trap speed difference, always higher on the G-Tech. Everything else is very close. It is a good tuning tool.

And the new gen models produce very consistent readings from run to run, unlike older ones. Even drag strip slips have limited use because of changing track condition, the lane you run in and whether you happen to hit your launch perfectly, get every shift in at the best shift point, etc. Very few guys post anything except what they think is their best effort under the most ideal conditions. That may not be very helpful for tuning purposes either.

But close correlation between a good accelerometer set up correctly and your drag strip slip will really build confidence in knowing if your mods are going in the right direction and producing the results you are looking for. That's because you get so much more data from the newer accelerometers.

Sorry about the jack. You may now return to your regularly scheduled programming -- comparing turbo upgrades!
 
Interesting discussion. Something to think about for upgrading the MS3.

R
 
The short answer is reliability... the K04 with the 5mm shaft is never going to push that much power as easily as the upgrade.

The idea is to bolt on a reliable upgraded snail that can better make use of all the other mods you are going to install or already have... no matter how you cut it this turbo flows more than the K04 - so if you wanna turn up the boost and exceed BNR's specs - and your willing to take the risk; then have at it.

5mm shaft????????????????

wow, to survive that stock shaft must be made of unobtanium
 
This is exactly what I did to my MKIII Supra turbo. K04E upgrade in the stock housing. But it only cost me a couple of hundred bucks to have a local turbo specialist do the work. In fact, it was his idea to upgrade- I was just there for a rebuild.

Mind you, this guy was well beyond the R&D phase for the Toyota unit, so he could churn them out quickly at minimal expense.

Could be a good option, especially for those who want to upgrade & either not blow the warranty, or just get some stealth power nobody will spot under the hood.

How would this not potentially affect the warranty? You don't think the dealers would be able to figure this one out the minute they take a look at the computer? This turbo would be doing something very different than an unaltered stock one.
 
How would this not potentially affect the warranty? You don't think the dealers would be able to figure this one out the minute they take a look at the computer? This turbo would be doing something very different than an unaltered stock one.

Chances are people putting a bigger turbo already have gone into no warranty land with all the other bolt ons that come before big turbo.
 
Yep, tough to imagine bolting a stock downpipe to your new big turbo and, I expect the wastegate actuator setup is proprietary to the MS3.
 
Yep, tough to imagine bolting a stock downpipe to your new big turbo and, I expect the wastegate actuator setup is proprietary to the MS3.

wastegate actuation from factory is a boost/vac bleeding system controlled by the ecu - it's got it's advantages and disadvantages - it's control can be manipulated with either of the most popular tuning devices
 
Would you give a little pro and con? also there is some adjustment on our acuator rod isn't there? any one played with it?
 
I understand how the wastegate control works, I just said it's probably proprietary to our KO4, thus giving away the switch if the car returns to the dealer.

The wastegate rod is NOT adjustable. The old MSP one was but, not the new car. You could do some creative bending, like we did in the bad old days but, good results are hard to get.
 
I would have sworn that i saw some threads turned on that A rod when i was installing my downpipe. Are you sure?
 
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