IMHO, the full synthetic WalMart-brand oil is the best bang for your buck. It's not like there making this stuff in some "Walmart-Factory", either. They contract out with different oil producers (depending on your region of the country) to make it for them.
Which Oil Filter????
- Thread starter Ride92
- Start date
IMHO, the full synthetic WalMart-brand oil is the best bang for your buck. It's not like there making this stuff in some "Walmart-Factory", either. They contract out with different oil producers (depending on your region of the country) to make it for them.
What I've read about Purolator Pure 1 Filters is that though they are as good as it gets for filtration, they can go into bypass mode more frequently than they should due to the higher resistance of better filtration.
Not sure if that's still true. Amsoil makes a new filter that is pretty cool:
I've never been a fan of the Amsoil Koolaid, but throwing in the extended drain oil and filter, and going 25k, is pretty attractive, and cheap too.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
QFT, lol
SocialStealth
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege ES, 120k miles
I use L&S JC urine lube and I change it every 50k miles, haven't had a problem yet (bow)
Rockin03mp5
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
and dino oil is how old?
(ohsnap!)
MonkeyBone
Member
- :
- Silver 2007 6 Sport
Well, diesel aren't nearly a stressed as, say, a MS3 or STi, right? So are you going to stick with the dino, or search for a synthetic with the properties you desire?
Wow, you ran 3 cars all the way out to 50k on Castrol with no issues? You don't say!
Dude, the anti-drainback valve in Fram's is cardboard, and they don't filter as well as other, just as readily available filters. Will your engine suck the cardboard in? Not likely, it's rare (but it happens). Will your car wear out prematurely from using Castrol instead of Chevron? Possibly not. But add an inferior filter which may attack your motor to 'OK' oil, and it leads to an important question: why buy the FRAM and Castrol, when right next to those on the shelf are Purolator filters and Chevron or Havoline oils at the same or lower cost, which WILL do a better job?
Your money, your car. You might enjoy this:
First, in canada we don't have those brands.
Second, your diagram compares 0w30 and 5w30. On the long term they do not compare.
Third, I have a freaking Protege5 whos got 30 whp. I can't go fast so I don't break my car!
SocialStealth
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege ES, 120k miles
whats the difference between 0w-30 and 5w-30 ?
First, in canada we don't have those brands.
Second, your diagram compares 0w30 and 5w30. On the long term they do not compare.
Third, I have a freaking Protege5 whos got 30 whp. I can't go fast so I don't break my car!
First, you guys have good weed, so I'm not so sympathetic to your lack of american oils.
Second, you are right and wrong. Theoretically a 0-30 should be les stable and robust than a 5 or 10-30; the chemical magic, additives, needed to allow the oil to thicken at temp make it less stable, all else being equal. But not all else is equal. You have 0-30's outperforming 10-30's, and there are 0-30's which outperfprm 5-40's under hard use. A straight 30 or 40 weight should be best, but it just doesn't work that way. Keep in mind some 30w oils are thicker than 40w oils. So your point is moot.
Thirdly, I have 30hp too, but I took a dump this morning and emptied my ashtray, it's feeling quite a bit faster today, 30hp be damned. All my redlining may break it! :lol:
Please explain this... lol Higher the number = the thicker the oil... The number you're talking about is the oil's viscosity at high temp (210 degrees farenheit I believe) And the higher the rating, the thicker the oil is at this temp. These numbers have NO relevance regarding their viscosity at cold temps. Viscosity at cold temps (at startup basically) is referred to by the first number in multi-viscosity oils. A 10w-30 oil is thicker than a 5w-30 when cold, but they have the same viscosity at running temps... So I'm not really sure what your entire previous post was trying to say, but it dind't really make sense. Except the part about the weed.
I'm no oil expert, but it's not exactly rocket science.
Each manufacturer has their own formula, and every 30w, or 40w, is not equal. Some 30w are thicker, almost 40w, some are thinner. So yes, a 0-30 is not necessarily like a 5-30, but all 5-30's aren't necessarily equal, so meh. It's just a general guidline. The German castrol 0-30 tested nearly as thick as a 0-40.
SocialStealth
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege ES, 120k miles
They're named after oatmeal. I wouldn't even try it. (doh)
