Down pipe

mclovinspeed3

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MazdaSpeed3
Hello everyone i have question for mazdaspeed3 driver who have a down pipe and a aftermarket intercooler

i was wondering if anyone has problem with this moddfication and also am going to tune my car after get the down pipe stage two
 
I've had enough issues with my soul patch, I sure as hell don't want to have to deal with the extra hair on my back the stage 2 downpipe has to offer.
 
you could run into problems, fuel/boost cut, and then your turbo will probably start smoking, you will have to take the pipe off and take your car in for dealer visit. Hopefully get your turbo replaced if not youll need to install a cc or change oil type to help with the smoke.

- with intercooler you wont run into problems, fitment issues MAYBE
 
ok thanks for the advices so now what should be my next modd for my car because downpipe is out of the question i have a mscai, turboxs hybrid bov/bpv, and a cb-e magnaflow
 
motor mounts, There are quite a bit of options now(side mounts, traction bars, rear tranny mounts. pick one?) get the shifter bushings. Intercooler upgrade would also help. Fmic gets you the best temps (costs more) TMIC is easier to install but will still fall victim to heat soak
 
motor mounts, There are quite a bit of options now(side mounts, traction bars, rear tranny mounts. pick one?) get the shifter bushings. Intercooler upgrade would also help. Fmic gets you the best temps (costs more) TMIC is easier to install but will still fall victim to heat soak

Hmm very interesting i like your style of thinking any other advices you can give me

as u can notice am a novices to modds
 
ok thanks for the advices so now what should be my next modd for my car because downpipe is out of the question i have a mscai, turboxs hybrid bov/bpv, and a cb-e magnaflow

There's honest debate here about whether a DP causes the smoking or just allows the engine crankcase fumes (recirculated to the intake by the PCV valve) to pass through without being burned up by the heat of the cats.

I think the "smoking" turbo thing is just a part of running high boost turbos with free flowing exhaust. I think nothing of it.

Look at the attached accelerometer chart and tell me if you think the gains from simple CAI intake and catless DP/RP and one step cooler plugs are worth it and whether there is better bang for the buck than these two mods. No tune, no BOV, no aftermarket BPV, no bigger IC, no pipe replacements, no stiffer mounts, no shifter bushings, nothing else. And yes, I power shifted 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5 shifts. Just curious about the response.
 

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ok thanks for the advices so now what should be my next modd for my car because downpipe is out of the question i have a mscai, turboxs hybrid bov/bpv, and a cb-e magnaflow

after you swap out the dp, its possible to run into problems. after reading about people experiencing problems with cut and having to deal with smokey turbos. i decided my route to take, im going to leave the stock dp on and put a electronic cutout in the midpipe. when i race ill open it up. when i drive it will be nice n quite. For now, i want to keep the car easy to drive with no headaches dealing with tunes or worrying about warranty getting voided.

Simple bolt ons(motor mounts, intake, turbo inlet, intercooler, bov, catback exhaust, suspension.) will get you good results without serious problems.

keep it simple unless you got time and some extra cash incase s*** happens\


after you install a mod, drive the car easy for about 100 miles. let the ecu "learn" what you jsut did to it. then beat on it if you like.
 
+1 On the Race Pipe/ Test pipe, I was happy with the results when I put mine.

Cool am enjoying the advices everyone giving me so with a race pipe i dont need to get a dp right because if i dont then that will be my next modd with mounts as well
 
I guess I'm in the minority, I have a TurboXS Stealth kit (DP/RP) with stock CBE, CP-E nano SRI, Turbo Inlet Pipe, Forge BPV, (not related but I also have rear MM, and solid shifter bushings, boost gauge, Dash Hawk) and I have no smoking turbo, or any other serious issues. Nothing but a big smile on my face. I do get some boost cut in cold weather but that's a relatively easy fix which I'm working out as we speak. Personally I like playing with my car and modding it. Not everyone has the same philosophy on this. Playing with and modifying your car leads to a host of possible issues, you either enjoy messing with your car or you need to be in your safe zone and call it a day. I love the tuning process and I am definitely hooked on it, and driving/racing my cars. Sometimes you just have to jump into the pool to figure out how to swim, if you don't like to get wet then better find a new sport you will enjoy... (eekdance)
 
Cool am enjoying the advices everyone giving me so with a race pipe i dont need to get a dp right because if i dont then that will be my next modd with mounts as well

No you dont, for now i have an CAI, BPV, Test Pipe, Rear MM and im happy with the car for now, it def. changes it ALOT in a positive way. Maybe I will add more power later, after I figure out my situation with the rims and tires for more grippy because 1st and 2nd I cant floor the car.
 
if you have a cat on your DP you get you will probably not smoke.... most that smoke are running catless.. it has to do with the journal seal in the turbo and how the k04 us made. there is even a TSB on the turbo now.. and if you have a mod friendly dealer you should have a problem with the turbo being replaced. that what i did and now i will be getting a new turbo..
but if you want a DP, which is way worth it i sell SW DP.. I would recommend the catted one. I throw in a free race pipe so you can switch to catless whenever you want.. so far no catted i sold are smoking..
 
Tell us more about the turbo TSB, please.

SMOKING FROM EXHAUST HOT ENGINE AT EXTENDED IDLE
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N Model Spec
MAZDA3 2007-2008 000000 ZZZZZZ
CX7 2007-2008 000000 ZZZZZZ
MAZDA6 2006-2007 000000 ZZZZZZ

Related Category/Subcategory/Symptoms
ENGINE / MECHANICAL / WHITE SMOKE,BLUE SMOKE
ENGINE / EMISSIONS / EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
ENGINE / EMISSIONS / BLACK SMOKE


MTOL - 5505 Dealer Repair Information
Symptom and Conditions

Vehicles equipped with DISI engines may experience a hot engine extended idle smoking out of the exhaust condition. This condition may also occur while driving in traffic at very slow speeds.


Repair Procedure

To correctly identify this concern have the tech drive the vehicle to insure it is fully warmed up a road test of 5 miles should be adequate.
Once the engine is fully warmed up allow it to idle for an extended period, this could take up to 30 minutes to produce any type of smoke from the exhaust. Once the smoking has started shut down the engine and perform a compression test and a cylinder leak down test. If both tests results are ok, have the tech remove the precat from the turbo outlet and inspect the exhaust impeller in the turbo for any signs of oil on or around the impeller. The removing of the cat should only be done with a cold engine. Quiz the tech as to the oil change history (time & mileage) what weight oil is being used during vehicle services on vehicles with DISI engines. If there is any sign of oil in the turbo, have the tech replace the turbo, and recheck using the same procedure to confirm the concern is gone.



Standard compression is 185PSI @ 250 RPM
Leak down less than 10%
DISI Engines require 5W30 weight oil.
 
Thanks. This is really useful info.

I guess Mazda is not concerned if the source of the oil around the exhaust impeller is coming from the crankcase through the PCV valve? That would produce the same oil on the exhaust impeller, would it not?

I guess Mazda is not looking at the turbocharger oil return line size, a known source of excessive pressure on turbo bearing seals in many different brands of high performance turbo engines when that return line is undersized.

I would have thought they would have the tech first check to see if there is any oil on the inside of intake tubes to and from the intercooler. Quick, simple, inexpensive thing to check. If they are oily, then it's more likely to be unburned crankcase fumes passing through.

If those tubes are dry and the turbo exhaust impeller is oily, then the TSB starts making sense. But disconnecting the "precat" (the DP) is a pretty major service procedure. Most of us would just rub our index finger back and forth inside the exhaust tip and see if the "soot" is oily. Maybe that's just too simple or not sufficiently diagnostic.

Assuming the turbo is replaced, I'm left wondering whether the issue will come back and am wondering if there is some actual change in the design of the replacement turbo.
 
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