Mazda5 Damper Recommendations?

[LittleTaxi5]

Hey Everyone,

From my post the other day I have decided to go with putting only the speed3 rear sway in my 2013 5. My car needs new dampers all around and this sent me down a hole. I'm curious to know anyone's thoughts on matching/ miss matching dampers on the front and rear of the car especially considering my rear sway bar. This was brought about because I also would intend to run the FCM/ 5x racing bump stops from the 3/speed3 on the 5 for some extra performance. Below is an email I sent to 5x, but I wanted to pose the question here to get some more opinions:

"I have a 2013 Mazda 5 that is in need of new suspension. It's a DD but coming from miatas and a lightly modded Mazda2 I'd like to tune up my 5 a bit. I ordered a Mazda speed 3 rear sway bar for the car. I was going to do Bilstein B4 shocks all around and give them a bit of help from your bump stop kit since the speed 3 and the 5 take the same parts in this case. I then stumbled across the Koni Special Active line of absorbers. I am wondering if you think that they will play well with your bump stops, especially considering my upgraded rear bar? I am thinking at the very least the Konis would be good/better in the rear because the upgraded sway will impact spring rates and the koni dampers will auto adjust to that rate change as opposed to the B4. I also then get concerned about mixing and matching brands of dampers if it would make the car worse. There are some mentions that the konis are picky about bump stops but your page about the 5x bump stops says they work well with Koni FSD dampers which were the predecessor to the Special Active Series. Thanks for your thoughts on this."

So yeah, I'd like to hear your thoughts on going what dampers will work best for my 5 with the speed 3 rear bar. With the speed3 rear sway should I do Bilsteins up front and special actives in the rear? Will I be okay with all Bilsteins? Is it worth the cash to go all Special Actives? How would the upgraded bump stops play into all this?

Thanks so much!
-J

 

[Silentnoise713]

Respect for calling it a Miata and not MX-5
Sounds like read/know some of Fatcat's discussions on bump stops (jounce bumpers)? Miss the Miata community.

I have B4s (twin tubed) all-around. Don't know your budget but I would typically recommend KYB all around, BUT make sure you opt for the Gas-a-Just (aka monotube) shocks for the rears, for stock replacements. Unfortunately they don't offer monotube struts for the front since this is a pedestrian vehicle. Dampers should be matched to the spring rate+travel. Koni FSD are nicer but money can be better spent elsewhere. Its an old car, I wouldn't put much money into it.

Seek and ye shall find... among others.

D

Thread 'Anyone regret getting Koni FSD for their car?'

Aug 7, 2014

Need something for my wife's car. Thinking of doing the FSDs, they are around $550. KYB are a little over half that, but the quality and warranty lean me more toward Koni -- last set I would have to buy. People have now had them for a while so looking for some feedback.

Shock mounts -- Raybestos Pro Grade $9, Doorman $18, KYB and Moog in the middle. They all the same or is something about the Dorman that much better?

Thanks!

• Dave88LX
• Replies: 18
• Forum: Mazda5 Forum

Do you ever need to use the 3rd row for passengers? Where are you located, I might interest you in a set of coilovers?

 

[LittleTaxi5]

Hey there Silent noise, thanks for the quick reply!

It's Miata... yeah it's an MX-5, but if someone consistently calls their Miata that they're just insecure (or from across the pond) lol.

Hows your experience with the Bilsteins? I thought about the gas-a-just in the rear but then I saw some negative thoughts on them from an experienced auto-xer over on grassroots so I nixed that idea. I don't use the third row all that much yet, but I have an infant who rides in the pilot seats and I do fear the gas adjusts would make the car more jarring and wake him up if he is asleep. Its the middle of the car so it wouldn't be worst case, but It is a thought...

Just read the thread you provided, thanks for doing that for me. It seems like an expensive gamble based on that. Last thing I would want it to pay a premium for a sub bar part. I really just want a smooth and controlled ride and have the dampers last a long time. The only "heavy" use the car sees is hauling stove pellets every other week during the winter, (gas-a-just would be nice for that).

Otherwise I'm just looking to have a comfortable ride in the front (will be adding a strut tower brace for some zip and precision) and a proportional ride in the rear given the speed 3 rear bar going in. Commuter driving with spirited back road use when I can is the intention.

So you seem to recommend kyb all around (with gas-a-just in the rear?) but some others think that Bilsteins are a bit more sporty and will last longer. Given your first had experience, tell me more!

 

[Silentnoise713]

So you seem to recommend kyb all around (with gas-a-just in the rear?) but some others think that Bilsteins are a bit more sporty and will last longer. Given your first had experience, tell me more!

I've had them for ~60K now and the rears have gotten progressively soft and I feel are in need of replacement, prob ~10K ago. I'm about to email Bilstein to better understand how their 'limited lifetime' warranty works...

Impression when things were bright, shiny, and new.

S

Thread 'Bilstein B4 and OE strut bearing'

Apr 12, 2019

Installed new Bilstein B4s. Awesome ride, definitely stiffer not just b/c they are new compared to tired old struts.
Couple of devil in the details for future reference, which Im surprise no one has mentioned before

-The design of the OE strut base is superior to B4s. The OE base has a raised ring/lip to fit square into the knuckle. The B4 has a tiny bead weld that you must make sure dont get tucked into the knuckle. If not careful, you may install them lower into the knuckle then intended that little nub serves a purpose.
-OE strut uses a longer alignment tab with a curved/hook...

• Silentnoise713
• Replies: 11
• Forum: Mazda5 Forum

• 

Don't let the namesake guide your decision. While it has merit, I find the B4s really are afterthoughts.

Front:
-The strut body diameter is smaller and not the same as the OE, therefore the dust boot does not fit right. Rule of thumb for shocks/struts is no replacement for displacement. More area = more liquid/gas and more surface area to cool but this is extreme cases.
-The B4 strut alignment hook (slips into the knuckle's passthrough/alignment bolt) is a half/open ring, whereas the OE/KYB is a closed loop. In theory, if you forgot to tighten the bolt (or not tight enough), the OE closed loop ensure the bolt WILL keep the strut in the knuckle. With the B4 they could, in theory (likely never to happen), come loose or out.
-OE/KYB lower body design has a nice thick collar/ring that fits square/flush into the knuckle. The B4 have a tiny pinch weld to let you know that is the depth it should be.
-Otherwise I think the front dampen well.

Rear:
-Don't recall too much issues with the rear other than the overall height was slightly longer than KYB GR2 (twin tube), which came with the car (acquired at 55K, replace at 115K). I never had OE rear struts but did procure OE MS3 struts (I did not use, not appropriate) and they were comparable in overall design.
-Currently I feel the rear B4s have gotten really soft and need to be replace. I haven't check if they may be leaking or not.

Overall, the thing to be mindful of is the EXTRA rear weight of the Mz5. Stock, it is has a few hundred lbs more than the Mz3. On top, you might carry a heavy load/passenger in the 3rd row on the soft OE springs, hit a few bumps/humps/rough patches at speed and it'll give the rear shocks a real workout. Hence, I would say go with the Gas-a-just in the rear.

 

[LittleTaxi5]

Id say you've convinced me to go gas-a-just in the rear. Thanks for your advice on that! I'm gonna do the Koni Special actives up front unless you tell me it really isn't worth it vs KYBs. Any insights on bumpstops?

 

[LittleTaxi5]

I want to put these on this setup, sounds like it would help

5X Racing Mazdaspeed 3 Bump Stop Kit

5X Racing Mazdaspeed 3 Bump Stop Kit

5xracing.com

 

[LittleTaxi5]

I want to put these on this setup, sounds like it would help

5X Racing Mazdaspeed 3 Bump Stop Kit

5X Racing Mazdaspeed 3 Bump Stop Kit

5xracing.com

I just bought them , gonna order the shocks/struts this week if not tomorrow. Ill make a post when I have everything together and get some time in on them

 

[Silentnoise713]

I want to put these on this setup, sounds like it would help

5X Racing Mazdaspeed 3 Bump Stop Kit

5X Racing Mazdaspeed 3 Bump Stop Kit

5xracing.com

What a blast from the past! Those are famous but I believe they are intended to be used by stock MS3 owners to get a little more travel from the damper before hitting a more forgiving bump stop. In case you didn't know, Shaikh started FCM with the Miata community. He is truly passionate about suspension.

If you have time, highly recommend you watch his channel. It will greatly expand your knowledge and understanding of suspension and demystify a lot of hearsay. He is also a great communicator and educator.

I just bought them , gonna order the shocks/struts this week if not tomorrow. Ill make a post when I have everything together and get some time in on them

FYI, Bilstein offer the B6 for the Volvo V50 ('closest' weight distribution to Mz5). Fronts are direct fit but the rear's lower bushing is smaller in width and will need spacers to mount into Mz5 trail arm. Both are monotubes but the fronts have a much ticker piston shaft and do not require bump stops (internal). A few past members have gone this route.