New to the MSP game...
- Thread starter 93MazdaSP
- Start date
The MSP has a very weak block, you can search over countless blown motor threads and regular protege thread. The stock turbo is more than enough to blow the engine. The ECU tuning is very important to not blowing the engine. Get a high flow mid pipe and a WGA to start out with, I think those two parts are the leading cause to blow the engine.
HondaEat-R
Member
Get a boost controller and gauge, just those, and turn up the boost to like 18 psi. Siiiick. J/k. Get a modest front mount, full exhaust, and turn the boost to 8psi. Get a wideband O2 and boost gauge!!!
- :
- MSP 1145
pmed.
bradboyd80
Member
- :
- '12 Velocity Red MS3
+1.....I don't know how many zoom zoom boom threads I've come across researching that same question. And scary thing is, half of those stories consist of stock engines, stock turbo, and stock boost. So I honestly wouldn't recommend increasing boost until you have plenty of supporting mods. Just my .02 cents. Good luck with the FMIC search though. I've seen mixed reviews on just about all of them.
+1. I got two Boost controllers and i refuse to put them in until its forged.
Outlawstar98
Member
- :
- 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege / 2013 BRZ
What do you plan to do with your car? any preference on AutoX, Drag, Ect.? that might help us help you aswell 
protegerider
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed Protege
if you really dont have enough self control then (eek2)
Outlawstar98
Member
- :
- 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege / 2013 BRZ
I would allow a boost controler, if they have every bolt on they can get LOL, besides that just stick to the bolt ons untill u go forged.
I got the BCs cheap on this forum. I rely on the car a lot at the moment while im in shcool. As soon as im done, in a year, its getting forged.
HondaEat-R
Member
Then why do you own two boost controllers ? I'm not trying to be a dick, and I understand your logic.
There's a crapload of people on here that aren't forged, and happen to run boost higher than 6 psi. He just needs to do full 3" exhaust, decent size front mount intercooler and then up the boost a LITTLE BIT. These cars run so god damned rich stock, it's not like he's going to lean out....
A lot of people break rods, smoke bearings, etc...because they're not paying attention to oil level/ pressure, or they just have no supporting mods at all and think turning the boost up is a great idea....it's not. That's why I said to do other mods, then up the boost. To each his own. I think he should sell it and buy a car that doesn't have to be forged to take 12psi from a small frame turbo...
Last edited:
HondaEat-R
Member
Read past the first sentence. It was a joke.... (2thumbs)
Last edited:
definitely get the exhaust and front mount, they will transform the car. for now, i wouldnt recommend going over the boost its set at (8 psi).
look into an awr front motor mount (reduce wheel hop and helps save the lsd) and look into shifter bushings (kartboy, they may not make them anymore or TWM), transforms the gear box.
vibrant exhaust
shifter bushings
awr front motor mount
custom front mount intercooler (if you have the know how)
look into an awr front motor mount (reduce wheel hop and helps save the lsd) and look into shifter bushings (kartboy, they may not make them anymore or TWM), transforms the gear box.
vibrant exhaust
shifter bushings
awr front motor mount
custom front mount intercooler (if you have the know how)
bradboyd80
Member
- :
- '12 Velocity Red MS3
+1 on the motor mounts. Found out the hard way mine were shot, when my exhaust snapped in half. So I'd recommend mounts first....then the rest.
SeR_Cyclops
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed Protege
You can not run just the front AWR mount and not the rear. i did this for about a year and i had a klunk that sounded like my rear motor mount was bad, well when i went into change the rear because it was finally getting on my nerves i started looking at the motor mount and it was fine (i put it off so long because it was a b**** to change) but i started looking and the AWR front mount with out the rear will change the pitch of the motor and cause it to hit on the cross bar that runs long ways under the motor (front to rear.) i know this because it actually left a little wear spot on my tranny and my cross bar. but all in all you CAN do it but it will rub. just a little warning.
dont know what to say, i ran just the front awr motor mount (softest durometer) for quite some time without any issues.
