Project Pay2Play: My Eunos Cosmo has arrived!

[blindy85]

Yummy!

Nice color!

That car is clean...

I sure wish I could find one in California. (naughty)

which mazda was your favorite to own

 

[Antoine]

Insane Pictures like usual Antonie .. must be a damn blast to live in a country like Japan, thats my dream right there, to visit Tokyo or the best places of Japan someday. Atleast me i love their culture, food, Technology ive never being in Japan before but i sure would love to live there some day..

Thanks! Glad you're a fan of Japan (thumb)...Driving here is definitely an adventure with tons of interesting sites to see and great driving roads...Plus most roads are in REALLY good condition!

As for living in Japan...It's not for everyone...Visiting yes but living here is a "love or hate" situation for most "foreigners"...I happen to love it...

Let me know if you ever visit!

Nice shots bro. I've got to get me one of those hoodies someday.

Thanks Josh!

Lookout for the next hoodie GB and be sure to grab one...My Family and I wear ours all the time...Super comfy and it always gets complements! (woowoo)

I have the exact same strut brace in mine, except mine is white. Does yours rub on the hood lining? I know mine does because the white paint shows everything. (pissed)

(cool)...As for rubbing on the hood lining...It seems my hood lining comes in contact with the bar in two small spots on either side but it just creates a small super thin patch of lining dust...No big deal...Easily cleaned...I may remove a little lining material where in comes in contact with the bar if it starts to bother me.

Just remove the hood lining then. I always remove mine in my cars. Just another item that keeps heat trapped in your engine bay allowing air and fluids to become heat soaked. That may be good in the winter, but not the rest of the year.

Interesting advice...Considering the 20B engine bay can get extremely hot...Especially in the summer...Although, in winter...It takes a good 5 minutes or more to properly warm up.

I'll keep this in mind...

Brake pads.......

Fr = BA-323 (V6 version)
Rr = HC-929 (V6 version)

Fuel filter = DB-121 (1300cc EFI version)

Thats what I use here in Oz as they are the same parts.

Air filters are unique so cant helpat this stage

REgards

Thanks for chiming in Dave!

I know that Cosmo from somewhere..............(lol2)

Paint code = D2

VIN = JCES-100190

Production date = 31-JAN-95

REgards

I need to find out my paint code!

Strut bar is GORGEOUS!
And you KNOW its well made too.

Thanks man!

Thanks Antoine,
the 2 Cosmo's are in stock factory condition and we have no plans to modified the cars, just like our other Mazda's,
the link to the website is www.everyoneweb.com/mazda
Best Regards, Erwin and Hans
( Hans is my son and he drives the 13B Cosmo)

Greetings Erwin and Hans...Thanks for posting more info. Wow...Two stock Cosmos as "Family" rides...That's awesome! (2htumbs)

Cool website as well...Do you have more pics of your Cosmos?

As for your son...Talk about lucky...How old is he?

Thanks DMRH,
I had already some information about brake pads and fuel filter from http://eunos.com.au/cosmo/parts.html
it's very difficult to find the original part number for the air filter, and don't know if it's used in other Mazda models,
Best regards, Erwin
www.everyoneweb.com/mazda

I wouldn't be surprised if the air filter is the same one used in other Mazda Models from the same era...The next time I'm at my local Dealer...I'll check!

Let us know if you find out though...

 

[Antoine]

I picked this Option (Japanese Tuner Magazine) DVD set while in Okinawa and I love it...Even though it's only in Japanese and difficult for me to fully understand the details.

It's a great deal as well...A 3 DVD set chalk full of max speed trial footage, land speed racing clips and open road racing coverage...All for around $20!

I've always had a fascination with this flavor of motorsports and one of my dreams is to participate in these types of events with the Cosmo! (laugh)

Someday...

 

[Antoine]

Took the Cosmo for a quick spin last night after work...Ran like a champ as usual...Ran like a BEAST when driving in "hold" mode which should be called "drag" mode because it basically acts like a drag racing auto tranny.

I drove around in second for a little while and it kept the revs at a healthy 2-4k...It put a whole new spin on the Cosmo...Normally, it's both Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde which is how I like it but now when I just want to bust out the heavy artillery...I can hold 'er in gear and the Cosmo turns into a RAGING BULL...Ready to conquer the road and anything in its way BUT if I want to resume sitting back and cruising in style and comfort...The auto is there to provide a super smooth ride...(2thumbs)

On a related note...Despite the higher sustained revs (which should be a good thing for the ol' 20B)...Temp fluctuation was minimal:

Winter temps while driving if I recall correctly (around town / no highway)...

OIL - 86~88c (187~190f)
WATER - 80~85c (176~185f)

That said...I'm sure the tranny got heated up...Maybe it's time to consider a temp sensor for the tranny..? I wonder if there is a sensor that will read auto tranny temps and hookup to the Defi Link Display unit..? I believe I can get one for exhaust temps which maybe needed in the future...

 

[wannabe]

lol @ Bonneville being in UTHA, USA.


As long as your oil and water temps are ok, then I wouldn't worry about the tranny, unless thats known as the weak spot for the 20b (not much of a rotorhead)

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

If you're really that concerned over the temps your tranny is reaching you could invest in a bigger/better auto tranny cooler. That will probably help a lot.

 

[bbrich57]

What he said!!!
Also, 190*F oil temp seems awfully low to me. I'm used to it taking longer than water to come up to FOT, but when it does, it's usually 20-30*F higher than water temp??? Why oil temp gauges usually read to 300*f and water temp to no more than 250*f.
Also, 180-190* is low for water temp too?

 

[wannabe]

What he said!!!
Also, 190*F oil temp seems awfully low to me. I'm used to it taking longer than water to come up to FOT, but when it does, it's usually 20-30*F higher than water temp??? Why oil temp gauges usually read to 300*f and water temp to no more than 250*f.
Also, 180-190* is low for water temp too?

after a long drive in the middle of the summer my scangauge tells me my water temp is 190 in the speed6, so thats a normal range.

 

[Antoine]

lol @ Bonneville being in UTHA, USA.


As long as your oil and water temps are ok, then I wouldn't worry about the tranny, unless thats known as the weak spot for the 20b (not much of a rotorhead)

I knew someone would notice the "UTHA"

I'm more curious than concerned about the tranny temps...I believe the tranny is quite durable and I would assume only needs upgrading if I plan on substantialy increasing power output (something I may do in the future).

If you're really that concerned over the temps your tranny is reaching you could invest in a bigger/better auto tranny cooler. That will probably help a lot.

True indeed...Although as I mentioned above...It's more a curiousity at this point...I would like to know what sort of temp range the tranny is happy at and if I'm ever exceeding that temp during spirited driving on the street, highway or moutain roads.

If I increase power output quite a bit and or do some weekend racing at a track (both very possible)...Then I would seriously consider installing a proper tranny cooler.

What he said!!!
Also, 190*F oil temp seems awfully low to me. I'm used to it taking longer than water to come up to FOT, but when it does, it's usually 20-30*F higher than water temp??? Why oil temp gauges usually read to 300*f and water temp to no more than 250*f.
Also, 180-190* is low for water temp too?

During what month/season did you see those temps?

In my case...During the summer...I recall seeing a temp range of 88c/190f~105c/221f for water and 95c/203f~110c/230f (113c/235f peak during heavy traffic last August) for oil.

after a long drive in the middle of the summer my scangauge tells me my water temp is 190 in the speed6, so thats a normal range.

After having the Defi unit installed...I noticed just how much of an impact maintaining airflow (aka driving at consistent speeds) has on the 20B...Even being stuck in summer traffic..It doesn't take long for the temps to drop rapidly once up to speed...On the other hand...It's painful to be stuck in traffic (espcially during summer) and watch the temps rise...

It seems the 20B is most "comfortable" at highway speeds in terms of opertaing temps.

 

[Vocko]

It seems the 20B is most "comfortable" at highway speeds in terms of opertaing temps.

Every car is

 

[Antoine]

Well, some cars are

It depends on what type of vehicle and engine...I've driven a kei (mini) car on the highway here in Japan and I had to max that poor engine out just to keep up with everyone else...I'm sure that in the case of vehicles with a poor power to weight ratio, underpowered engine or weak cooling system...Highway speeds do not provide comfortable operating temps for the engine.

The Cosmo is a Grand Tourer...Designed to cruise and perform at speed with ease (high performance rotary = speed = increased airflow = happy engine)...More so than your average commuter car that is designed to get around town with ease (comfort and economy = moderate speed = moderate airflow = happy engine).

Hope that makes sense...

 

[Vocko]

Apsolutely agreed.
My point was that every engine likes to be driven at constant rpm on an open road... After that it depens of the engine (size,power,transmission...bla bla bla) if that speed is gonna be 50kmh or 150kmh

 

[bbrich57]

During what month/season did you see those temps?
In my case...During the summer...I recall seeing a temp range of 88c/190f~105c/221f for water and 95c/203f~110c/230f (113c/235f peak during heavy traffic last August) for oil.

To be honest, and as much as I want a working gauge in my 3, I haven't had an oil temp gauge in a while. But in my Volvos (an 1800S Coupe w/factory gauge and a highly modded 144S w/an AM) and Civic 1500GX (AM gauge, mildly modded) 230-240*f was not unusual for oil once fully up to operating temps no matter what the season.

 

[Antoine]

Apsolutely agreed.
My point was that every engine likes to be driven at constant rpm on an open road... After that it depens of the engine (size,power,transmission...bla bla bla) if that speed is gonna be 50kmh or 150kmh

Very true...

To be honest, and as much as I want a working gauge in my 3, I haven't had an oil temp gauge in a while. But in my Volvos (an 1800S Coupe w/factory gauge and a highly modded 144S w/an AM) and Civic 1500GX (AM gauge, mildly modded) 230-240*f was not unusual for oil once fully up to operating temps no matter what the season.

Just got back from a weekend trip to the countryside...On the highway I was seeing water temps from about 65~80c (149~176f) and oil temps from 75~90c (167~194f).

 

[Antoine]

Here are some pics from last weekend...Have a look...

<label for="rb_iconid_2">

</label> Cruising the Countryside in the Cosmo

 

[DMRH]

lol @ Bonneville being in UTHA, USA.


As long as your oil and water temps are ok, then I wouldn't worry about the tranny, unless thats known as the weak spot for the 20b (not much of a rotorhead)

Actually the 4AT tranny is easily overstressed & prone to failure if too much power is pumped through it. Typically from 400KW I have seen them failing but thats all in big-single turbo territory.

The oil cooler can capture the crud from the transmission as the JATCO unit lacks a filter. The cooler requires a reverse flush to clean it out becuase if clogged up, the tranny overheats & fails.

Always use the best synthetic trans oil available to ensure longevity & change it every 30,000km - 40,000km

REgards

 

[Antoine]

Actually the 4AT tranny is easily overstressed & prone to failure if too much power is pumped through it. Typically from 400KW I have seen them failing but thats all in big-single turbo territory.

The oil cooler can capture the crud from the transmission as the JATCO unit lacks a filter. The cooler requires a reverse flush to clean it out becuase if clogged up, the tranny overheats & fails.

Always use the best synthetic trans oil available to ensure longevity & change it every 30,000km - 40,000km

REgards

Thanks for chiming in David...That's what I figured...If you're pushing serious power and putting that power to use on a frequent basis...You will likely bust the stock tranny...That's safe to assume...In my case, if I were planning on pushing serious power, I'd include upgrading the tranny in the budget as well.

BTW 400KW for those in the States = Around 536 hp...Why wouldn't you upgrade the tranny at that level...lol!

Interesting point about the cooler...Do you really recommend getting a tranny cooler for the Cosmo or is that not necessary unless you plan on racing and or running high hp? If so...What would you recommend?

+1 for proper tranny maintenance...Had that done along with an oil change not long after I first got the Cosmo.

 

[Antoine]

Time to get back in it...

Life has been so busy since last fall but as things are settling down...I'm eager to get back into giving Pay2Play some much deserved TLC...The desire is even stronger now after having such an awesome drive last weekend! (laugh)

A while back I was unsure if the next big project/stage was going to involve coilovers or the sound system...Now I know...It's time to give some much needed attention to the sound system.

Why? After having the front strut bar installed and having immediate access to mountain roads...I'm quite satisfied for now with the Cosmo's current handling prowess...It's real solid and part of my sound system upgrade plan includes having the rear strut bar installed which should help keep the rears planted especially in the corners.

Now...First step is to establish a basic battle plan...

Goals...

** No rattles
** Functional design
** High quality parts
** Tight & balanced sound
** Strong & durable materials
** Cool, Classy and Complimentary theme

Breakdown...

** Sound Deadening

* Dynamat (or equivalent product in Japan) trunk, doors, and rear deck


** Front / Door Speakers

* Replace the current front speakers and tweeters with a modern high quality set of component speakers

* House speakers in custom enclosures in the doors

* House tweeters in stock location (in the dash) or custom pods opposite the side view mirrors


** Rear Deck

* Replace original (and now cracked) 6x9 speakers with modern high quality units

* Install rear strut bar...Question: Does this mean I have to remove the rear seat belts?

* Customize rear deck to match and compliment the strut bar, new speakers and overall interior (decide color and material)

* Possible custom but subtle OLED signage to add a little spice...


** Trunk

* Add high quality woofer and amp/s to the new system

* Custom trunk enclosure (decide color and material)

* Custom removable speaker box to match enclosure and house amp/s, woofer and related gear


What happened to "stage" II and III?

** Mods that need to be completed

* Ashtray/Defi mod
* Glovebox could close a little tighter
* Replace front tires to match the rear Bridgestones

** Mods that I would like to do in the near future

* Re-Paint and weather coat side view mirrors
* Re-Paint aero kit mesh areas to match body color
* Continue with plan to replace existing "Cosmo" aero kit signage with a custom OLED setup
* HIDs!!!

** Possible Mods for the future (aka stage IV)

* Coilovers!

** Shiz that needs to be fixed/repaired at some point

* Passenger side step panel nicked (just noticed this the other day )
* Check quarter window weather stripping...Time to replace?
* Check window and side mirror weather stripping...Time to replace?

** Time for some maintenance?

* Change oil soon
* Preventive maintenance...Check the plugs, oxygen sensor, fuel filter and brake pads


Timeline...

* Hopefully starting in May or June...I'm really looking forward to attending Round 1 of the next RX-7 Meeting at Central Circuit (in the Hyogo countryside) on May 2nd...The day after my Bday!

　　　　2009年関西RX-7meetingｽｹｼﾞｭｰﾙ
　　Rd.1　5月2日(土）
　　　　　Rd.2　7月11日（土）
　　　　Rd.3　12月予定
​

　　　　　　 　 ？？ 　　　 　　
セントラルサーキット　　 　　 MAZDA　RE40周年記念ｻｲﾄ　　　　　RX-7マガジンOnline​

 

[Antoine]

Finally got some stuff I've been waiting for from Amazon (Stateside)...Guess it got stuck in customs...(notcool)

I've been in the mood recently for some tangible reading material since most of my content and media is digital these days.

Picked these up to enjoy on the couch with a favorite beverage when time allows...


* Big fan of Landspeed Racing & Bonneville (https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned))

* One of my first orders on Amazon back when they started was https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (a classic and must have for all car/FI enthusiasts). I've been wanting to pick up a boost related book again and came across this one...Published in '08 with a foreword by Gale Banks...(thumb)

* On a related note...I've subscribed to Grassroots Motorsports ([URL]http://grassrootsmotorsports.com)[/URL]
About time! Can't wait to get my first issue!!! (woowoo)

 

[Shadow102]

If you want the end all turbo book pick up "maximum boost" by corky bell. Some of it may be over the head of somebody who knows the basics but as you get more in depth with the harder stuff it all makes sense.