noise from windshield?

Got back from the dealer a few hours ago. Just to recap a little:

The Service Manager (SM) ordered the 8 foam clips a few weeks ago and I finally had time to bring it in this morning. I had talked to her on the phone about the TSB and told her I was getting rattling noises from the area where the dash meets the windshield. She had no problems ordering the clips without verifying that I had the problem.

When I got there, she told me that even though the noise was barely noticeable and my VIN was out of the range covered under the TSB that she would still go ahead and have it done. She wanted to make sure she addressed my problem instead of saying, "Your car isn't covered under the TSB and we don't know what to do to fix it." She was VERY nice and went way out of her way to take care of my concerns. She later came out and told me that she found another TSB that she wanted to perform. See below (anyone know what I/P stands for in this TSB?):

LIGHT METALLIC RING/TAP NOISE FROM I/P ON ACCEL
Applicable Models
2004 - Mazda3 VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2005 - Mazda3 VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2006 - Mazda3 VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;

Symptoms

800 EXCESSIVE OPERATION NOISE
820 UNUSUAL NOISE(EXCL. PINGING,SQUEAKING,OPERATION,RESONANCE)

MTOL - 4740 Dealer Repair Information

A light, metallic ring/tap noise may be heard coming from the I/P. The
concern is a one time event only, during a harsh clutch engagement
and/or while quickly letting off or stepping on the throttle.

The source of noise may be coming from the shift cable bracket. The
bracket is mounted on the body tunnel, above the exhaust system flexible
pipe. The heat insulation must be pushed back in order to access the
bracket.

Two studs secure the bracket. The bracket was designed to be pressed
onto one stud with a nut installed on the second stud. Install a nut on
the stud without a nut. (Locally source the nut, thread size 6mm x
1.0mm with a 10mm head.)

***Published in Sept/Oct 2005 M-tips***
1/19/06 - MTO updated to include 2006MY.

Since my car already had the foam tips, she added the extra set of tips onto the existing one since she already ordered it for me. She thought this would create a even better contact point. She said even though the above TSB I posted wasn't directly affecting my Speed3, she wanted to have it done just so we've addressed another potential cause. Now I don't know if I experienced the symptoms in the the above TSB, but I was glad they did it. I will find out in the next few days if both of these TSBs have helped in eliminating or at least reducing the chatter. Last thing: she also wanted me to keep her updated on if the noise comes back as they're getting a new insulation material that keeps cars from having rattles. If the noise comes back, I'll go in to have them add this stuff she says should help. I'll update this thread on what happens.
I wish I had a Mazda dealer near me with a service department like that. All the sales departments are awesome (obviously) but the service is teh suxorz...fer reals. I doubt any dealer around me would ever say "I'd like to perform this to prevent problems" they have a strict policy of if you haven't heard it, it's not our problem. AND: If we can't hear it or recreate it, go f*ck yourself.
 
i be hearing dat clicky noise from the dashboard for a longtime....never figure it out what was the problem... so i think i got it now...well gotta give a try sometime soon..............
 
Incase you guys are wondering what the rubber tape is called to fix it yourself, its Rubber Mastic Tape. Find it in the electrical section of Home Depot. I just took out the two screws in the windshield cowel, then pryed that plastic piece up with a 2" putty knife. Then pushed the tape under the pryed edge ( with some sticking out) then i just cut the part that stuck out off with a razor blade. No more windshield squeak, even down to 20 degrees! =)
 
IP is most commonly Instrument Panel, as in the tach/speedo/fuel gauge area.

I added some foam stuff I got from a squeak & rattle repair kit at work to the hooky things under the windshield. The noise is gone and honestly I think you could use any number of things on there to fix it.

I did have a problem though. I removed the wipers and the cowl completely to get a good look at what was under there. When I went to put it back together, I pushed both halves of the cowl back into place simultaneously, but the passenger side wouldn't quite clip in properly. You guys who removed the cowl, did you have any issues replacing it? How did you press it back into place, like did you put one end in first, or one half in first?

I connected both pieces before putting it on the car. had to play a little to get it in place, but overall no problems.
 
Incase you guys are wondering what the rubber tape is called to fix it yourself, its Rubber Mastic Tape. Find it in the electrical section of Home Depot. I just took out the two screws in the windshield cowel, then pryed that plastic piece up with a 2" putty knife. Then pushed the tape under the pryed edge ( with some sticking out) then i just cut the part that stuck out off with a razor blade. No more windshield squeak, even down to 20 degrees! =)

This ABSOLUTELY works; 15 minutes and $9 -- worth it to not worry about pulling off my CP-e SRI and two trips to the dealer for a solution which may or may not work.

tape;
tapevk4.jpg


tape inserted (with backing still on for photo purposes);
insertxz1.jpg
 
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I had the creeking at the base of the windshield issue. Took it into my dealer, along with the part numbers from this post, and he said he had seen the issue before. Ordered the parts, installed them, and the noise is gone.
 
Since we have such mixed opinions...
Which method actually works better...taking it to the dealership to do or just throwing tape under there yourself?

I don't want to deal with any of my Mazda dealerships if I don't have to but I don't want to get blamed for breaking anything if (god forbid) I actually do.
 
Since we have such mixed opinions...
Which method actually works better...taking it to the dealership to do or just throwing tape under there yourself?

I don't want to deal with any of my Mazda dealerships if I don't have to but I don't want to get blamed for breaking anything if (god forbid) I actually do.

Has anyone just ordered the parts, and installed them ?
 
from what i've read, removing the cowl completely in order to install the new parts is a PITA. either have your car ready for warranty work or do the double sided tape trick.
 
Well, I gotta take it up for some rattles and minor things to see if the dealer can fix them (doubt it) I guess they can take a shot at fixing this while it's there too.
 
How do you remove the windshield wipers? i removed the 12mm bolt from the wipers but the wiper arms are held by something and won't budge.
 
So glad I found this. My dealer is 70 miles away (like DaleNixon) and I love her too much to let some lackadaisical chump touch her. At least I know how much treating her right means to me...
 
Well it's been over a month now and the rattling has not come back (yet). Keep in mind I have two sets of the padding installed. Read my original post below for details. It's supposed to be pretty chilly here this week so that'll be a good test.

Got back from the dealer a few hours ago. Just to recap a little:

The Service Manager (SM) ordered the 8 foam clips a few weeks ago and I finally had time to bring it in this morning. I had talked to her on the phone about the TSB and told her I was getting rattling noises from the area where the dash meets the windshield. She had no problems ordering the clips without verifying that I had the problem.

When I got there, she told me that even though the noise was barely noticeable and my VIN was out of the range covered under the TSB that she would still go ahead and have it done. She wanted to make sure she addressed my problem instead of saying, "Your car isn't covered under the TSB and we don't know what to do to fix it." She was VERY nice and went way out of her way to take care of my concerns. She later came out and told me that she found another TSB that she wanted to perform. See below (anyone know what I/P stands for in this TSB?):

LIGHT METALLIC RING/TAP NOISE FROM I/P ON ACCEL
Applicable Models
2004 - Mazda3 VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2005 - Mazda3 VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2006 - Mazda3 VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;

Symptoms

800 EXCESSIVE OPERATION NOISE
820 UNUSUAL NOISE(EXCL. PINGING,SQUEAKING,OPERATION,RESONANCE)

MTOL - 4740 Dealer Repair Information

A light, metallic ring/tap noise may be heard coming from the I/P. The
concern is a one time event only, during a harsh clutch engagement
and/or while quickly letting off or stepping on the throttle.

The source of noise may be coming from the shift cable bracket. The
bracket is mounted on the body tunnel, above the exhaust system flexible
pipe. The heat insulation must be pushed back in order to access the
bracket.

Two studs secure the bracket. The bracket was designed to be pressed
onto one stud with a nut installed on the second stud. Install a nut on
the stud without a nut. (Locally source the nut, thread size 6mm x
1.0mm with a 10mm head.)

***Published in Sept/Oct 2005 M-tips***
1/19/06 - MTO updated to include 2006MY.

Since my car already had the foam tips, she added the extra set of tips onto the existing one since she already ordered it for me. She thought this would create a even better contact point. She said even though the above TSB I posted wasn't directly affecting my Speed3, she wanted to have it done just so we've addressed another potential cause. Now I don't know if I experienced the symptoms in the the above TSB, but I was glad they did it. I will find out in the next few days if both of these TSBs have helped in eliminating or at least reducing the chatter. Last thing: she also wanted me to keep her updated on if the noise comes back as they're getting a new insulation material that keeps cars from having rattles. If the noise comes back, I'll go in to have them add this stuff she says should help. I'll update this thread on what happens.
 
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