How To: 2.0 Header Installation
- Thread starter Captain KRM P5
- Start date
on the sedan, 2.0 is standard, 2.3 available
on the hatch, 2.3 is standard
If your talkin bout the spring bolt from the header to midpipe, cut it with a dremel (cutting wheel) buy a new spring bolt set at the dealer, I replaced all the old s*** when I put header on. Do it right the 1st time bro.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
It's a pretty common problem. I used a butane torch and a bar to heat the tube and force it to line up. It was a lot of work, that's for sure. I think an easier solution is to loose the EGR tube on the other end to give some play. The best way to do it is to thread the tube on before tighening down the header to the block.
Please listen or read. I put my header on no probs at all.
1. You should use the springs (they're designed for flex in the system)
2. Stuck o2; pb blaster the s*** out -of it mine came out real easy
3. no torches needed!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: if you get frustrated walk the **** away and return in a bit or you will **** something up! It's easy if you think it out.
- Don't mount EGR nut before attaching header to head, you have a better chance this way of stripping the header mounting bolts in the head from misalignment and then you'll really be ****** (aluminum head remember), steel header/EGR Nut much less easy to strip and easier to die if it does.
4.insert header/ exhaust mani. bolts until they are almost all the way in(but not tight)
5.remove EGR tube bracket bolt with a long ext.10mm socket
6.use a long 12" or more screwdriver/pry bar
7.insert pry tool between EGR tube and strong part of housing on trans
housing and pull toward you (w/right hand) while aligning the EGR Nut to EGR header fitting and screw it on (w/left hand) . make sure threads are real clean. You can use a little lube on the header threads.
8. tighten header bolts to head.
cross tighten bolts ( DO Not overtighten they will strip or break if you do!)
9. recheck bolts after hot cold engine cycle.
1. You should use the springs (they're designed for flex in the system)
2. Stuck o2; pb blaster the s*** out -of it mine came out real easy
3. no torches needed!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: if you get frustrated walk the **** away and return in a bit or you will **** something up! It's easy if you think it out.
- Don't mount EGR nut before attaching header to head, you have a better chance this way of stripping the header mounting bolts in the head from misalignment and then you'll really be ****** (aluminum head remember), steel header/EGR Nut much less easy to strip and easier to die if it does.
4.insert header/ exhaust mani. bolts until they are almost all the way in(but not tight)
5.remove EGR tube bracket bolt with a long ext.10mm socket
6.use a long 12" or more screwdriver/pry bar
7.insert pry tool between EGR tube and strong part of housing on trans
housing and pull toward you (w/right hand) while aligning the EGR Nut to EGR header fitting and screw it on (w/left hand) . make sure threads are real clean. You can use a little lube on the header threads.
8. tighten header bolts to head.
cross tighten bolts ( DO Not overtighten they will strip or break if you do!)
9. recheck bolts after hot cold engine cycle.
Last edited:
Feel any difference?
- :
- 2016 GT ST 47A
I'll be installing the Ractive header soon on mine and thanks to living in the NE I am sure I'll be losing a few bolts to the torch. That said, I decided to buy all new gaskets, bolts, nuts, springs, washers etc from Jason at http://www.onlinemazdaparts.com before I started.
Here's a rundown of the items and their part #'s along with quantity I bought for others who may need them:
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (1) - FS0113460A
Bolts (8) - 9YA010801
Spring Bolts, these are a different animal as you'll have to buy the following parts seperately to 'build' them
Studs (2) - FP3920WA1
Springs (2) - BP4840582A
Nuts (2) - 999401000
Washers (2) - 999521030
Donut Gasket (1) - BP4840581A
The following items I purchased as I will also be swapping my stock midpipe for an MSP midpipe:
Gasket To Pre-silencer (1) - FSB840305
Cat To Pre-silencer Bolts (2) - FP1320WA4
Cat To Pre-silencer Nuts (2) - JE1040355
I also chose to buy the O2 wire extension vs splicing my own so I can re-route the 2nd O2 sensor to the midpipe:
Mid Oxygen Sensor Harness (1) - BPY167020
Here's a rundown of the items and their part #'s along with quantity I bought for others who may need them:
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (1) - FS0113460A
Bolts (8) - 9YA010801
Spring Bolts, these are a different animal as you'll have to buy the following parts seperately to 'build' them
Studs (2) - FP3920WA1
Springs (2) - BP4840582A
Nuts (2) - 999401000
Washers (2) - 999521030
Donut Gasket (1) - BP4840581A
The following items I purchased as I will also be swapping my stock midpipe for an MSP midpipe:
Gasket To Pre-silencer (1) - FSB840305
Cat To Pre-silencer Bolts (2) - FP1320WA4
Cat To Pre-silencer Nuts (2) - JE1040355
I also chose to buy the O2 wire extension vs splicing my own so I can re-route the 2nd O2 sensor to the midpipe:
Mid Oxygen Sensor Harness (1) - BPY167020
Last edited:
between OBX and Ractive?
Slightly better top end power
OBX mated to the Magnaflow sounded straight beastly in town, and noisy at highwayspeeds
Ractive is much.......less beastly??..lol..around town and MUCH better at highway speeds
Where did you get that O2 wire extension from?
i'd like to help but i can't make out thewire coming off the O2 . What's all the brown frayed stuff around it?
okay guys, im having problems with the 1st o2 sensor... it comes into contact with the brake slave cylinder, and blows a fuse. any ideas how to go around this? pics:
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