MAF Relocate

I bought a set of hardpipes cut for relocation. I've run my MAF relocated to the pressure side for 2.5 years now with no problem whatsoever.

A word to the wise: DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC MESH SCREEN INSIDE THE MAF HOUSING. Trust me on that.
+1 Not only will this protect the filament but it also serves to straighten the air before it hits the filament to allow for a better reading. If you've ever been inside a wind tunnel the same principle is used.
 
Try a search, this is a subject that's been discussed extensively in the Protege community.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105437
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123662940
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123666332

I personally just cut up my cold pipe (intercooler to throttlebody) and popped the MAF right in there. I've been running it that way for almost three years and it's still doing fine.

this gives me hope, 3 years and no problems, i may be doing this soon then :)
 
this gives me hope, 3 years and no problems, i may be doing this soon then :)
I sometimes wonder if the only reason that I haven't had any problems is because I bought a backup MAF as soon as I relocated my original one .. Sometimes I feel like these cars purposely break parts cause they know we'll have no immediate way to fix it.

But my MSP .. it saw that extra MAF .. and said 'WTF, she just ruined my fun, no point in blowing the original one now!' .. (evil)
 
Aw, my P5 loves breakin' stuff. It's like as soon as I put the turbo in it went "Oh, hell no!". Now she'll run well for about a month then something will break, etc. etc. I guess it likes to keep me guessing...
 
t3/t4 at 17-18 psi.... no problems.

Atta boy....I think i may do it. We shall see though.

I guess there is no reason not to. I did a pretty good search and no one seems to have an issue doing it i just didnt know how much boost they were acutally running.
 
I remember a few discussion about the lil diffuser, but i dont remember anything about it and MAF relocate. It seems like u would need it after u relocate, because of the pressure. I hope I didnt throw mine away!

17-18 psi?????? Holy Crap!!!!!!
You Gotta be forged!!!
 
I sometimes wonder if the only reason that I haven't had any problems is because I bought a backup MAF as soon as I relocated my original one .. Sometimes I feel like these cars purposely break parts cause they know we'll have no immediate way to fix it.

But my MSP .. it saw that extra MAF .. and said 'WTF, she just ruined my fun, no point in blowing the original one now!' .. (evil)


Sounds like my kinda luck!
Also seems when i install or fix one thing, something else minor pops up.
 
Does anyone know the specific output voltage of the IAT? Is it linear, etc.? If you want to put the IAT on the pressure side, there are others out there like GM, and I found a boosted NSX that had an IAT that had a a threaded metal housing. If you could find one that outputs the same signal, you could use that. Let me know what you find, because I want to move both my MAF and IAT before getting my Unichip tuned.
 
i'm curious as to how (or even if) an Injen CAI would fit together properly without the MAF inbetween the two pipes. is there enough play in the "vibra-mount" for it to reach the pipe on the turbo? or do you just have to convert it to a SRI?
 
or do what im doing and buy a defective maf off a forum member.
 
Ok, this might be a really dumb question...... But pretty much since I've owned the vehical I have never ever ever had that IAT in the filter or pipes. I just shoved it in the closest convenient place. What the hell does it even do, theres no way it can be essential at all if my car works perfectly. Just one more crazy useless OBDII sensor in my mind. Does anyone have a logical explaination to actually keep it where it was "Suppose" to be?
 
If I'm not mistaken, which I could be, the MAF reads air density by the voltage needed to keep the hot wire at a certain temperature. The more air that goes past it, the more voltage is needed to keep the temp up. The IAT is used to correct the readings so that the actual temperature of the air isn't affecting the reading.
 
The Ford Lightning uses a threaded IAT sensor find one and the bung and have it welded on your cold pipe. Since mazda and ford use the same parts it will work. Not ALL Lightnings use this threaded IAT sensor so research it
 
i didnt read he whole thread and this might have been answered but did anyone relocate the MAF on stock pipes? I want to relocate it to add a forge bov or a hks to kill the turkey and run a bit smoother...any ideas?
 

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