Twiggy Sticks Install, tuning and results thread

Not sure why they didn't do them all that way anyway.
You cant just tap it though..It wont have a seat to seal to.you would have to have it machined for a seat..and then tapped.
 
Not sure why they didn't do them all that way anyway.

To make matters more complicated - my set of cams have been at THREE different machine shops before they were within spec to bolt up to a head. I have no idea when those hex bolts were installed, I'll have to dig through some photos ...
 
To make matters more complicated - my set of cams have been at THREE different machine shops before they were within spec to bolt up to a head. I have no idea when those hex bolts were installed, I'll have to dig through some photos ...
See..this reason alone is enough for me to go with the JDM's.
I mean...Cams aren't somthing you want to play with and not be right.
At least the JDM's are OEM parts and will work flawlessly.
 
as long as neither end is comletely wide open you are good to go. Its ok for it to have a little material removed from the middle, but you shouldnt be able to put, say a screwdriver, or toothpick, anything small in diameter and long down in there very far. One of the machine shops that bala's cams have been to might have done the alteration, i havent seen any of these cams. If someone had some original pictures from the sale thread where they were sold however long ago it might help out. But as i said as long as neither end is open you are good, dont worry about anything.
 
I run the SRMotorsports version of the JDMs.
See..this reason alone is enough for me to go with the JDM's.
I mean...Cams aren't somthing you want to play with and not be right.
At least the JDM's are OEM parts and will work flawlessly.
 
See..this reason alone is enough for me to go with the JDM's.
I mean...Cams aren't somthing you want to play with and not be right.
At least the JDM's are OEM parts and will work flawlessly.

I agree. That's why I'm holding onto my other set of OEM JDM cams until these prove themselves. I almost put them up for sale when I got the Twiggy sticks in my hands, but I think it's a good idea to hold off until I get this beast dialed in.
 
I run the SRMotorsports version of the JDMs.
Thats fine and all..if you want to pay twice as much for a non OEM cam with the same specs.
Now how does that make sense either...Why not just get the JDM's?

I mean the SRM's are what..about $750...JDM's cam be had for about $400.
 
ok just got to look at my cams and the welch plugs. looks like im going to have to get some dry ice or something to try and get the welch plugs in becuase theres no way they are going in as they stand they are too big
 
ummm no i dont have a hex bolt but i have 2 welch plugs that are different lengths wtf. so do i need to get another set?

Fear not! Mystery is solved.

Welch plugs are a Ford standard size .389 aka .39

And stil stick to my previous statement...as the answer is still not there.
How long have these been out again?
Kinda makes you wonder how many sets are actually in Use and not sitting on a shelf somewhere.
What a waste.

I have wondered that myself.
We should refresh the list as many sets change hands many times.

Why would you tap the cam?
SO you can install a hex head plug?

Or hold it on your lathe?
 
I just bashed the plugs in with a punch and hammer. Through my own fault, one of the dowels fell out, but the washer on the cam pulley holds it in. The length is perfect.

I've gone back to stock cam gears now and grown to really like the angry idle (NA).

The only very minor issue now is an occaisional stumble when lightly accelerating through about 2,500rpm if the engine is cold. My car is weird and goes closed loop as soon as the WBO2 provides a signal. EM is an emanage ultimate.

The little FP screams it's way to 7,500rpm every day.
 
Thats not a check valve, if you notice the ball is crimped in there to keep it from coming out, and yes its sole purpose is to keep oil from coming out of the end of the cam. The oil is instead forced out the holes to lube the journals. Try moving it i guarantee it wont budge. I worked in a machine shop here in atlanta for a few years. I know a little about cylinder heads and the top end since thats what we specialized in. Alliedmotorparts.com, also if you notice in the picture of your cylinder head it has two of them as well. Same purpose, to keep oil from coming out. If my memory serves me correctly since i dont have a complete head in front of me to look at, the passages that those plugs block (on the head) feed oil to the lifters.

Forcefed, this pertains to your other thread about the "ball bearings" in the head. like i said, seals the oil galleries.
 
1. LordWorm (NA)
2. AusOrion (NA)
3. MZ_Zoom (FI)
4. Kayman (FI)
5. Sleepy (NA)
6. Crazee D (NA)
 
1. LordWorm (NA)
2. AusOrion (NA)
3. MZ_Zoom (FI)
4. Kayman (FI)
5. Sleepy (NA)
6. Crazee D (NA)
7. ctt 1982 (FI)
 
I just bashed the plugs in with a punch and hammer. Through my own fault, one of the dowels fell out, but the washer on the cam pulley holds it in. The length is perfect.

I've gone back to stock cam gears now and grown to really like the angry idle (NA).

The only very minor issue now is an occaisional stumble when lightly accelerating through about 2,500rpm if the engine is cold. My car is weird and goes closed loop as soon as the WBO2 provides a signal. EM is an emanage ultimate.

The little FP screams it's way to 7,500rpm every day.


thanks i think thats what ill do just hammer them in with a punch
 
1. LordWorm (NA)
2. AusOrion (NA)
3. MZ_Zoom (FI)
4. Kayman (FI)
5. Sleepy (NA)
6. Crazee D (NA)
7. ctt 1982 (FI)
8. mazdaspeedweerx (FI)
 
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