Keep in mind, these are OEM from MAZDA. Way OVERPRICED!
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Colder plugs in the MS3, whose using them?
- Thread starter silverspeed03
- Start date
Keep in mind, these are OEM from MAZDA. Way OVERPRICED!
Ok, so we have TR6a installed. These are one stage colder than what came with my Lightning.. Im assumung the "A" stands for iridium. So, this means, that you could try NGK TR6 as those are COPPER.. If you need to go to a stage 2 colder plug, NGK BR7EFs are the copper ones.
So you think my issue sounds like a plug problem and not a fuel cut problem? (confused)
After thinking more about this, I really doubt it's plugs. When my plugs were bad, my symptoms always went away at higher RPMs like 5K. With all your mods, it could be fuel cut, but PG has a MS6 at 329 whp on the stock fuel system. Other threads I've read indicate the stock fuel system can support up to 350 whp, so don't know. It's easy to check the plugs and look at the ceramic for cracks and carbon trails in the cracks.
Sorry bud but I dont think your blowing out spark. My guess is its the same thing me and laloosh have had problems with many times. Once the the ecu senses the fp losing pressure it does something to the car that feels like spark blow out. Its pulling timing and closing the throttle plate. You need more fuel. Are you running over 22psi? If not its no way spark blow out. They are gapped at. 28-32 from the factory.
Why do you insist that the main cause of this sputtering everyone is experiencing is from loosing fuel pressure??? reason i ask is because while dynoing my car at nearly 18psi it showed no signs of running out of fuel pressure and neither did your dyno as i recall. just curious what makes you believe that more fuel will fix the problem when these cars run pig rich as it is.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
So Mazda specifically calls out Iridium plugs? I have always read that Iridium plugs were bad for turbo engines due to getting hotspots and causing pre-ignition!?
Iridium are fine for high boosted applications as long as your tune is dialed in. The reason is because Iridiums crack so damn easy at the littlest form of detonation. I think NGKs are better plugs than Densos and ive been using them in high boost applications for years. Platinum is probably what youre referring to in your experiences of hearing bad things with turbos. I prefer a copper plug. They are cheaper and can be tossed out and replaced with new plugs during every other oil change. Just remember if you plan on going with copper, they have to be resistor plugs, or else they wont work properly with COP. The TR6 and BR7EFs are ok to run with COP.
Why do you insist that the main cause of this sputtering everyone is experiencing is from loosing fuel pressure??? reason i ask is because while dynoing my car at nearly 18psi it showed no signs of running out of fuel pressure and neither did your dyno as i recall. just curious what makes you believe that more fuel will fix the problem when these cars run pig rich as it is.
your car is not making enough power. what do u have to fool the map clamp, if nothing, ure not holding 18psi. Also this happens when the weather is cold, like 40 and under, the colder it gets the more it happens. sputtering IS the fuel pressure dropping. look up my posts and look at the datalogs ive posted with just i/tbe/15 and 17psi. Maybe youl change your mind.
your car is not making enough power. what do u have to fool the map clamp, if nothing, ure not holding 18psi. Also this happens when the weather is cold, like 40 and under, the colder it gets the more it happens. sputtering IS the fuel pressure dropping. look up my posts and look at the datalogs ive posted with just i/tbe/15 and 17psi. Maybe youl change your mind.
(mswerd)
your car is not making enough power. what do u have to fool the map clamp, if nothing, ure not holding 18psi. Also this happens when the weather is cold, like 40 and under, the colder it gets the more it happens. sputtering IS the fuel pressure dropping. look up my posts and look at the datalogs ive posted with just i/tbe/15 and 17psi. Maybe youl change your mind.
where are your data logs please?
top right hand corner, hit advanced search type in my name and serach for fuel pump, you will see it all
or click this lol
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123689668&highlight=fuel+pump
or click this lol
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123689668&highlight=fuel+pump
just so everyone know before they go out and try to gap there plugs. YOU CANT RE-GAP IRIDIUM PLUGS BECAUSE THEY WILL BE DAMAGE, THEY ALL COME PRE GAPPED!! so if your gonna try this you must by copper plugs instead.
u can gap them....u just have to not be an idiot and break them. Did it all the time with my neon
Iridiums are used by OEM because of ther long life. They are not commonly used in boost applications especially with the aftermarket.
I ran iridiums in my turbo mazda3 and seen a few hairline cracks in them and heard a few horror stories about them. Switched to copper plugs after that and never had any issues with them.
Besides copper plugs are alot cheaper than iridium or platinium plugs and are usually found at any autostore.
I haven't had any type of fuel/boost/maf cut on my MS3 but I'm also curious how it is labled to be fuel cut.
I have experience fuel cut on other vehicles as others have and it doesn't sound the same as what many here are describing. The way it does sound makes it seem more like it is spark blow out or maxing out the MAF.
Fuel cut would make the car run lean right and I haven't seen anything that supports this in one single bit. We have people saying the fuel pump is maxed out and I can believe it if they are still untuned and running 9afr at WOT.
I haven't checked what the gap was on the stock plugs but all of the replacements I have seen are labled as .051 - .052 usually they are pretty close to what you need....did say usually.
I know you can gap iridium plugs and it is not as hard to do as some are making it out to be. Just don't touch the electrode.....simple as that.
I ran iridiums in my turbo mazda3 and seen a few hairline cracks in them and heard a few horror stories about them. Switched to copper plugs after that and never had any issues with them.
Besides copper plugs are alot cheaper than iridium or platinium plugs and are usually found at any autostore.
I haven't had any type of fuel/boost/maf cut on my MS3 but I'm also curious how it is labled to be fuel cut.
I have experience fuel cut on other vehicles as others have and it doesn't sound the same as what many here are describing. The way it does sound makes it seem more like it is spark blow out or maxing out the MAF.
Fuel cut would make the car run lean right and I haven't seen anything that supports this in one single bit. We have people saying the fuel pump is maxed out and I can believe it if they are still untuned and running 9afr at WOT.
I haven't checked what the gap was on the stock plugs but all of the replacements I have seen are labled as .051 - .052 usually they are pretty close to what you need....did say usually.
I know you can gap iridium plugs and it is not as hard to do as some are making it out to be. Just don't touch the electrode.....simple as that.
top right hand corner, hit advanced search type in my name and serach for fuel pump, you will see it all
or click this lol
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123689668&highlight=fuel+pump
hmmm ok so is it the blue line representing the fuel pressure drop or what? im confused from your graphs. please explain. just dont see how the fuel pressure dropping would cause this when the afr's are get richer and richer before redline. wouldnt you see the afrs began to lean out some when the fuel pressure drops??
Sorry bud but I dont think your blowing out spark. My guess is its the same thing me and laloosh have had problems with many times. Once the the ecu senses the fp losing pressure it does something to the car that feels like spark blow out. Its pulling timing and closing the throttle plate. You need more fuel. Are you running over 22psi? If not its no way spark blow out. They are gapped at. 28-32 from the factory.
He has the proper gap from the service manual, all those other number people ar thowing out are wrong.
He has the proper gap from the service manual, all those other number people ar thowing out are wrong.
what? I pulled them out and checked thats how I know. Im not sure what your are saying here.
The reason is because Iridiums crack so damn easy at the littlest form of detonation.
No, the main reason they are bad for boosted applications is because the irdium portion on the electrode with say glowing hot at cleaning temps in between sparks. this can can cause the fuel to ignite before its supposed too under high cylinder pressures from the boost. thats the main reason people upgrade to coppers, to eliminate that issue.
No, the main reason they are bad for boosted applications is because the irdium portion on the electrode with say glowing hot at cleaning temps in between sparks. this can can cause the fuel to ignite before its supposed too under high cylinder pressures from the boost. thats the main reason people upgrade to coppers, to eliminate that issue.
Never seen that in my experience, just the porcelain cracking.
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