Motor mount mod owners!! TRZ & AWR & any others...

A

AutoXRacer

Member
I've read here and there about engine components (tranny mount, etc) getting loose while having the modified rear motor mount...?

Can anyone comment on this...?

I am looking to buy one of these rear engine mounts for my MS3. While I've been reading the Delrin mount to be extreme for street use, does anyone have the Poly...? Can anyone compare the differences between the Delrin and Poly...?

I'm planning to autocross the car, which would be more appropriate? Daily driving comfort comes first though... What I'm really looking for is to transfer the power to the wheels and less to twisting the engine...

Any comments on the TZR vs. AWR and any other out there would be greatly appreciated... Seems like the TZR has a better design since its simpler and less bulky...

Thanks!!
 
I haven't read anything about the tranny mount being affected by the stiffer rear mount. The only thing I've heard was speculation about the stiffer rear mount exacerbating the failure of the pre-recall trans mount.
 
Thats it...? That would be a good thing!!

IIRC SwampAss, you have an upgraded engine mount? How do you like your mount? Which one did you get? Pros/Cons? Thanks!!
 
I've had two. I bought Corksport inserts and was very happy with the results. I scored an AWR 88 durometer off fleabay on the cheap and swapped it out thinking it had to be better still. Truth be told, I didn't really notice any difference between the 88 durometer AWR and the Corksport insert. I've heard from people who have switched from the 88 durometer AWR and gone with the TRZ and said there was a difference. I've never ridden or driven a car with the TRZ but am quite happy with my AWR. If I was to do it all over again, I'd probably go with the TRZ. For no other reason than not having experienced it.

Pros: Shifts better, much lessened wheel hop.
Cons: None. I experience almost no vibes at all. The mount is transparent during normal driving.
 
AWR 88 here. No complaints, only pros as Swampass stated. Very little additional vibration, and even less after 40, 50 miles. My girlfriend didn't even notice a difference in daily driving until I mentioned the vibrations to her. Shifting greatly improved as the engine does not rock like hell anymore. I also think it is suitable for autocrossing. The TZR would ultimately be the best mount for autocross/race setup, but you're probably only shifting into 2nd gear on a typical autocross course anyways (well atleast in my area you could only hit 2nd).
 
I have the TRZ Delrin. I had a few gremlins, but they were mostly unrelated to the TRZ mount. First I didn't have my intake filter tightened down all the way, and the added vibs caused the filter to fall off and drop down into my engine bay. Again, I cannot stress this enough, unrelated to the mount, its just something that happened because I didn't properly tighten the filter clamps and then noticed the problem once the TRZ was installed.

I don't know if other members were having this problem, but the dang delrin mount was rattling like crazy, so I put a thin layer of epoxy on the metal tube in the middle to keep it nice and snug in the delrin bushing. Once I did that the mount felt about 10000% better. Less vibs, no clunks / rattles... The way I would describe it is like when you start your car the engine is completely cold. You feel it vibrate a little bit until it settles down. With the epoxy in the delrin mount, it just feels like that a little bit at idle, and then driving is smooth as silk, and the shifting is just incredible, and the power gets to the ground so much better.

I cannot reccomend this enough. Get the TRZ mount, either delrin or poly, both are great, and then if the delrin one gives you trouble, do what I dide.
 
Poly will feel virtually identical to stock. Just barely noticeable vibration wise.

Delrin you will definately feel, but its VERY driveable for how stiff the mount is.
 
I've been looking at the trz delrin for a while now, was kinda hoping a group buy was coming or anything, but looks like imma have to get it
ill sacrifice vibrations for a better shift any day of the week
 
Well, I just ordered the poly... I called Protege Garage and they said their most popular version they sell is the poly...

He said there was not much difference between the delrin and poly other than the delrin is a slight stiffer bushing, provides less engine movement, and transfers a lot more vibrations... He basically said that the poly allows minimal engine movement, while the delrin basically does not let the engine move.
He recommended the poly since its the most popular choice...
 
i say stay awar from AWR... the only mount upgrades that i have seen fail are the AWR. i tore up both a 70 and 88 duro !! get the TRZ poly, you will be happy. i have both the poly and delrin mounts. i have dragged and beat the shiznit out of it on the street with both mounts. the delrin does add a little extra support, but the poly is a little more daily driver friendly. although many of the people out there use delrin for everyday driving and have no complaints.
 
Delrin + epoxy the hell out of the inside of the bushing. I promise you will love it, and I will not shut up about it until someone else tries it! The difference is AMAZING.
 
subparpunk03 said:
Delrin + epoxy the hell out of the inside of the bushing. I promise you will love it, and I will not shut up about it until someone else tries it! The difference is AMAZING.
Click to expand...

The difference is amazing...? Difference between stock delrin vs epoxied delrin...? Or Delrin mount vs stock mount?
 
With the stock delrin mount, at least on mine, I have no clue if others are like this, the metal tube that sits inside the delrin bushing has just enough space to move back and forth inside of the delrin bushing. This was causing a LOT of vibration at idle and low rpms and also causing HORRENDOUS clunking noises.

So Initially I removed the mount, but a small strip of duct tape on the outside of the metal tube, just enough so that it sat snug inside of the delrin bushing and would not move around. This worked great for about a day until the duct tape became compressed and the metal tube began rattling around again. So I removed it once more and slathered some epoxy along the inside of the delrin bushing, put the metal tube back in and let it cure.

I swear its REALLY close to stock vibration / noise levels. I'd really like to see someone else try this and see if it makes a difference for them, but I understand if you are hesitant to mess with your expensive TRZ mount. Maybe try the duct tape thing, its easy to remove.

Also, the difference between stock vs. delrin is pretty noticeable performance wise. Its hard for me to describe the performance difference, things just feel crisper, and more solid. The wheels don't spin quite as much during a hard launch and when they do, they don't bounce up and down, they squeal a bit then you GO.
 
subparpunk03 said:
With the stock delrin mount, at least on mine, I have no clue if others are like this, the metal tube that sits inside the delrin bushing has just enough space to move back and forth inside of the delrin bushing. This was causing a LOT of vibration at idle and low rpms and also causing HORRENDOUS clunking noises.

So Initially I removed the mount, but a small strip of duct tape on the outside of the metal tube, just enough so that it sat snug inside of the delrin bushing and would not move around. This worked great for about a day until the duct tape became compressed and the metal tube began rattling around again. So I removed it once more and slathered some epoxy along the inside of the delrin bushing, put the metal tube back in and let it cure.

I swear its REALLY close to stock vibration / noise levels. I'd really like to see someone else try this and see if it makes a difference for them, but I understand if you are hesitant to mess with your expensive TRZ mount. Maybe try the duct tape thing, its easy to remove.

Also, the difference between stock vs. delrin is pretty noticeable performance wise. Its hard for me to describe the performance difference, things just feel crisper, and more solid. The wheels don't spin quite as much during a hard launch and when they do, they don't bounce up and down, they squeal a bit then you GO.
Click to expand...

I'll probably give this a whirl, the epoxy thing, but I still haven't had the problmes you faced.... I have another project in line however....it starts with an "H" and ends with an "S".... lol

-J
 
I ended up welding my transmission directly to the car's unibody with a section I cut from an anvil.
 
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