Sub woofer location for the MS3 Bose system?
- Thread starter Je5ter
- Start date
under the passenger seat.
Lol
I thought they did, I took it back to the dealer and those dumb puck didn't know where it was either they had to check with some body else. So then I had to call bose to find out what the ohms where.
Tweeters are 4 ohm's
Door speakers (all 4) are 2 ohm's
That little (((PLASTIC))) box under the passanger seat they call a sub-woofer is set @ a whopping 1 ohm.(hand)
Hell fire! if it wasn't for the climate control, I would just rip that crap right out of my car.
I thought they did, I took it back to the dealer and those dumb puck didn't know where it was either they had to check with some body else. So then I had to call bose to find out what the ohms where.
Tweeters are 4 ohm's
Door speakers (all 4) are 2 ohm's
That little (((PLASTIC))) box under the passanger seat they call a sub-woofer is set @ a whopping 1 ohm.(hand)
Hell fire! if it wasn't for the climate control, I would just rip that crap right out of my car.
mrlilguy157
Member
- :
- 07 mazdaspeed 3
we have a factory installed sub?
I don't get all this negative talk about the Bose audio system?? I'm in Canada and the Bose system is standard and it is a HUGE improvement over the stock stereo in my old 2005 Mazda3 GT. I am not a HUGE audiophile but I do have an ear for quality and I think the Bose system is very crisp and clean. No it doesn't have ear numbing, car vibrating bass but the clarity is tight.
^agreed. Being a BIG system buff ever since I was able to drive at 16. Having my 3rd car now with bass putting out 135+db (already had to replace my rear windshield once) I'm tired of the weight and room all the amps and subs take. I've sat in a MS3 and listened to the Bose system and it is fine for people who want a system feel inside their car without having everyone else hear it. You can still feel the slight bump with clarity.
1) Speaker impedance is irrelevant.
2) Climate control is not tied into the factory headunit.
3) Aftermarket gear can be easily integrated and/or run off of the "Bose' headunit.
I realize a huge improvement in sound quality by sound deadening the inside of the car. Sound deadening the doors made a huge difference in sound quality. Also, my biggest issue with the Bose system is the fact that there is not any low pass filtering on the factory midbasses. They are allowed to run full range and get harsh in the upper midrange.
-Mark
Yup, that little "sub" is quite a joke. I'm going to do a bunch of measuring to see if an ED SQ10 would squeeze under that seat. It needs 0.3 cuft, handles 250wrms and only has a 3" mounting depth. That would make me VERY happy! My old Alpine 9835 HU, an Alpine PDX4.150 under the driver's seat and some Rainbow Profi Kickbass components up front will save me from the unfortunate bose setup. That thing is so underpowered that it hurts my ears with distortion at moderate volumes. It has nothing to do with wanting earth shattering boom; the tweeters have crappy detail (cymbals don't sound like cymbals), the mids are so-so and the bass is muddy (regardless of what the bass on the deck is set at). All I want is a simple, clean and detailed system that can drown out wind/road noise on the highway without killing my ears. I don't want to sound like a complete asshole, the bose IS better than many premium stock stereos that I've heard in other cars, but that's not saying much.
EwingSpeed3
Member
Is it possible to run a slim self amped bass tube in the back that can be easily taken in and out keeping the stock HU? I would rather add more bass and some tweeters but would want to keep the stock HU.
Please see my post above.
I wouldn't buy new door speakers and try to run them off of the Bose amplifier. However, the headunit signals can be sent to aftermarket amplifiers without the use of a line output converter. If you want new speakers, I would feed the headunit line level outputs into a small and inexpensive amplifier. A small amp could easily be mounted under either of the front seats.
As far as a bass tube is concerned, feed two headunit outputs to the rear of the car and you're set. All of the signal connections can be made under the driver's seat. The wire colors are listed in other threads. You'll have to solder RCA connectors onto some bare wires, but it isn't that bad. You might also need a ground loop isolator, or line driver to keep the signal ground noise away.
So to answer your question, yes it can be done. Hope this helps.
-Mark
Sound deadening, sound deadening, sound deadening. Check out raamaudio.com Inexpensive and effective sound deadening.
Before I ripped the Bose stuff out, I sound deadened my car. So, was able to get a before and after comparison. It tightened up the midbass and lessened the midrange resonances considerably. The treble and upper midrange was still harsh, but this is due to the use of inexpensive drivers and the lack of lowpass filtering on the midwoofer. Disconnecting the rear door speakers also helped a little.
The issue with the Bose subwoofer is that it isn't really a subwoofer. There is almost nothing below 60Hz or so. It is there to compensate for the fact that most cheap door speakers don't play low midbass very well. So, it isn't a true subwoofer, because it can't even touch the lower octave.
-Mark
xcoldr1cex
Member
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed3 GT
cosign. i did this also and could hear a difference.
I would like to replace that Bose subwoofer with something fairly cheap. Around $100-$200 without adding an Amp (self amped sub?).
I'm not looking for car thumping or major vibrating bass, I just want something a bit deeper and warmer sounding than the current subwoofer in that car.
I have a stock 2006 Mazda 3 GT with the 6-CD HU / Bose sound system.
Can anyone direct me to any recommendations? Or what I should be looking for? Keep in mind, I don't want anything major, I just want a sub that would fit under that passenger seat so that I can just swap it out with the Bose subwoofer that is there now and get a bit of an improvement in Bass without having to worry about wiring an amp, etc.
Thanks for any and all help in advance.
I'm not looking for car thumping or major vibrating bass, I just want something a bit deeper and warmer sounding than the current subwoofer in that car.
I have a stock 2006 Mazda 3 GT with the 6-CD HU / Bose sound system.
Can anyone direct me to any recommendations? Or what I should be looking for? Keep in mind, I don't want anything major, I just want a sub that would fit under that passenger seat so that I can just swap it out with the Bose subwoofer that is there now and get a bit of an improvement in Bass without having to worry about wiring an amp, etc.
Thanks for any and all help in advance.
uhhhh
speaker impedance is very important actually. amps and subs are rated for different impedance levels. if you want to replace the sub without changing wiring and stuff, you need to get a sub that is configured to work properly at 1 ohm impedance. also, just fyi, amps are rated at different power levels with different levels of impedance. that is why they often seem over rated. the circuit that you use to plug the speakers into the amp can change the impedance level, and thusly, the amp rating of the amp. check this out for more (but still simple and easy to understand) info.
http://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
as you can see, you can hook amps with different numbers of outputs to different numbers of speakers in different configurations to create different impedance levels. the amp will tell you the output level at each impedance rating.
I hope that made sense.
speaker impedance is very important actually. amps and subs are rated for different impedance levels. if you want to replace the sub without changing wiring and stuff, you need to get a sub that is configured to work properly at 1 ohm impedance. also, just fyi, amps are rated at different power levels with different levels of impedance. that is why they often seem over rated. the circuit that you use to plug the speakers into the amp can change the impedance level, and thusly, the amp rating of the amp. check this out for more (but still simple and easy to understand) info.
http://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
as you can see, you can hook amps with different numbers of outputs to different numbers of speakers in different configurations to create different impedance levels. the amp will tell you the output level at each impedance rating.
I hope that made sense.
At low volumes, I find the Bose Sounds good, but anything above 15-18 Range just sound terrible. I am trying to figure out a way to keep the HU stock and just get some better sound.
Would this work?
Could you Remove the Bose Amp and Sub woofer and put an amp with line level inputs under driver seat. Then put some good quality 6x8's or 6 1/2's in both front and rear. I'd do a little sound Deadening to the doors while I was at it. I think 4 Good quality 6x8's or 6 1/2's with around a 250 Watt Amp would allow us allot more volume and Bass then we have with the crappy sub under passenger seat and the stock door speakers. I'd Probably just disconnect the Tweeters as they wouldn't be able to handle the power and Volume I like to listen at, Unlesss.... Anyone know of a tweeter that would fit in there and has either a built in or separate Crossover that may work there. The staging of the Bose is pretty good actually but I don't think I'll be able to use a tweeter there without the tweets running off a different amp or something to give me better control. I'd prob just ditch the tweets and run 3 ways in doors.
The biggest question I have is can we use the Bose Amps Power, Ground and speaker wires so basically all we would need to do is throw 4 speakers in, pull the drivers seat, remove the Bose amp and wire in a nice new Amp with real power and adjust-ability and be done with it, if the amp has speaker level inputs?
Tom
Would this work?
Could you Remove the Bose Amp and Sub woofer and put an amp with line level inputs under driver seat. Then put some good quality 6x8's or 6 1/2's in both front and rear. I'd do a little sound Deadening to the doors while I was at it. I think 4 Good quality 6x8's or 6 1/2's with around a 250 Watt Amp would allow us allot more volume and Bass then we have with the crappy sub under passenger seat and the stock door speakers. I'd Probably just disconnect the Tweeters as they wouldn't be able to handle the power and Volume I like to listen at, Unlesss.... Anyone know of a tweeter that would fit in there and has either a built in or separate Crossover that may work there. The staging of the Bose is pretty good actually but I don't think I'll be able to use a tweeter there without the tweets running off a different amp or something to give me better control. I'd prob just ditch the tweets and run 3 ways in doors.
The biggest question I have is can we use the Bose Amps Power, Ground and speaker wires so basically all we would need to do is throw 4 speakers in, pull the drivers seat, remove the Bose amp and wire in a nice new Amp with real power and adjust-ability and be done with it, if the amp has speaker level inputs?
Tom
