Idea for Xede.... advice needed

palerider

Member
:
mazdaspeed3 black mica
OK I really want this thing and had an idea.

Hypothetically lets say that I was playing around with hydrochloric acid and dropped it all over the wires where Xede would be cut in. How would that be fixed?

Is there a part number for all the wires that come out of the ECU. What if the whole wiring harness could be replaced. My idea is that I would have one harness that has Xede wired in without PNP, and then for warranty work or if I ever trade the car.... Id have an entire backup factory harness to plug back into the car.

Where is my thinking convoluted here. I have to believe that if my wires fryed or melted that there would be a replacement part available to replace it. What if Xede could be ordered along with an entire new OEM harness on the side to swap in and out.

Thoughts?
 
I think you are correct, in theory.. but I would assume that the full wiring harness for the Mazda3 would be quite limiting in its expensiveness.

+ you would have to disconnect not only the ecu, but all the other ends of the harness to swap them out, and I don't even want to think about how long that might take...
 
I think you are correct, in theory.. but I would assume that the full wiring harness for the Mazda3 would be quite limiting in its expensiveness.

+ you would have to disconnect not only the ecu, but all the other ends of the harness to swap them out, and I don't even want to think about how long that might take...

I was thinking in terms of the wires AND the harness. Do the wires plug directly into the ECU? or is there some sort of harness on both ends? Ive never looked closely at this.... if you had to estimate the TIME involved, what would you say?

For now.... lets just say the cost of such a thing is irrelevant. I cant imagine that it would be more than a grand, and that I could stomach..... unless PNP is released a week later. Then that would hurt. If thats to be the case... then a PM wink from Ken would be appreciated. LOL.
 
I just realized that what your saying is that wires would have to be replaced all through the engine back to their sources. Am I correct? Doesnt Xede go in BEFORE the ECU to alter the signals. Now Im confused.

I know this is potentially a stupid thread, but some elaboration on what you said earlier would be appreciated.

Even if this was a massive undertaking.... knowing that Xede was in fact reversible, even if only once helps soften the blow. I keep fearing that if I do this than I would have to explain it when and if it ever got traded or sold. This could potentially devalue the car like crazy in the years to come.
 
well after the wires leave the ecu dont they spread out across the engine? that would take hours to grab all those wires
 
The Harness can only be purchased with the stock ECU. Tried that. The cost of the ECU is around $1700. We have had two ECU's replaced under warranty (on Miatas) that had wires spliced into them. Do not know how the owner presented it to the dealer though.
Stephanie
 
i swapped wiring harness on my MSP last year ... it's alot of work. In the proteg, there were ~3 big connectors under the passenger floor panel and behind the console. Then there's the wire that goes all the way back to the gaz tank (under the rear seat) for the fuel pump. + all the connectors in the engine bay for every sensor had to be disconnected. It was a pain but in the end it fixed my problem =)

Sooo ... i would suggest that, unless they make some kind of PNP harness, that you plan your install well to make it as easy as possible to remove and put the wiring back to stock.. Once you take out your piggyback and close the floor panel and everything else (assuming it's under there in the MS3), i am pretty sure the guys at the dealer won't go looking under there "just for the hell of it"
 
oh and btw, my mazda dealer wanted like 1400$ for a new harness so i picked one up from a Proteg ES from a scrap yard for 100$ and fixed up a few of the connectors to make it fit in the MSP
 
I thinks it would be cheaper and less labor intensive to just hide your work really good. I doubt the dealer tech would notice, depending of what kind of work he's doing.
 
well if they hook up to the obdII port, which i'm sure they do every time you bring the car in, he may see some things you don't want him to see. maybe it will record higher boost levels, different AFRs, etc, something that can make him want to dig deeper
 
It's already been discussed before in this forum that the ecu don't record any of those things. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
i never followed MS3/MS6 talks because i didnt think i would get one. but now i am...lol i have alot of catching up to do
 
well if they hook up to the obdII port, which i'm sure they do every time you bring the car in, he may see some things you don't want him to see. maybe it will record higher boost levels, different AFRs, etc, something that can make him want to dig deeper

Stuff like that can't be read thru the OBDII port. That would require a black box, I believe. The Xede leaves no trace of being there.
Stephanie
 
Stuff like that can't be read thru the OBDII port. That would require a black box, I believe. The Xede leaves no trace of being there.
Stephanie

If I recall correctly from our training, information can be read through the OBDII port like that, but it isn't recorded by the ECU (unless a problem occurs, triggering a code)

Basically there are many "monitors" in the OBDII system. These monitors look for deviations from standard operating parameters, and if one is out of spec for a certain period of time then it sets a CEL. This CEL can also turn off if the monitors do NOT see anything out of spec for typically 1-3 trips, but the code is stored in the ECU for later retrieval.

The software I present to shops has this info within it, so that should be correct (thought I might have phrased it wrong slightly)

Through OBDII CAN-BUS technology, virtually every sensor can be read off the OBDII port provided you have a device that can read it, but it is live datastream, and not constantly recorded forever (unless it runs out of spec and throws a code as mentioned above)
 
The Harness can only be purchased with the stock ECU. Tried that. The cost of the ECU is around $1700. We have had two ECU's replaced under warranty (on Miatas) that had wires spliced into them. Do not know how the owner presented it to the dealer though.
Stephanie

Sorry to revisit this.... but for 1700 you are saying that it could be done right? How long to swap Xede, or CPE standback, in and out if I purchased a second stock ECU. What would be involved?

Is the 1700 dealer cost or retail? Ive decided tonight that I want the first PNP EMS in MS3 land. $1700 seems reasonable. Im tired of waiting....
 
Sorry to revisit this.... but for 1700 you are saying that it could be done right? How long to swap Xede, or CPE standback, in and out if I purchased a second stock ECU. What would be involved?

Is the 1700 dealer cost or retail? Ive decided tonight that I want the first PNP EMS in MS3 land. $1700 seems reasonable. Im tired of waiting....

Thats a lot of work Pale. Youre better off making yourself a quick connect bypass like what CPE offers.
 
Sorry to revisit this.... but for 1700 you are saying that it could be done right? How long to swap Xede, or CPE standback, in and out if I purchased a second stock ECU. What would be involved?

Is the 1700 dealer cost or retail? Ive decided tonight that I want the first PNP EMS in MS3 land. $1700 seems reasonable. Im tired of waiting....
I would have to send it to the harness maker to ensure that is it working properly. Once he returns the harness, we can wire in the Xede harness. $1700 was retail. OR, just hard wire one ECU and save the other for warranty issues.
Stephanie
 
I would have to send it to the harness maker to ensure that is it working properly. Once he returns the harness, we can wire in the Xede harness. $1700 was retail. OR, just hard wire one ECU and save the other for warranty issues.
Stephanie

I just got back from the dealer for some stuff and I think I'll wait on the 2nd ECU for now. I want EMS and I can always spend 1700 later to replace whatever I cut up.

So my last real question is how long would it take to replace the ECU with a new one, if for whatever reason I needed to? Can the ECU be replaced itself or would the entire engine bay need to be rewired? One seems quick the other looooong!!

Sorry Im acting like such a puss.... but cutting up my ECU seems like such a big step. Which is stupid because my warranty is basically gonna be shot within the next month or two anyway....lol. I still just want to know what I would be up against to return to stock if I HAD to.
 
I just got back from the dealer for some stuff and I think I'll wait on the 2nd ECU for now. I want EMS and I can always spend 1700 later to replace whatever I cut up.

So my last real question is how long would it take to replace the ECU with a new one, if for whatever reason I needed to? Can the ECU be replaced itself or would the entire engine bay need to be rewired? One seems quick the other looooong!!

Sorry Im acting like such a puss.... but cutting up my ECU seems like such a big step. Which is stupid because my warranty is basically gonna be shot within the next month or two anyway....lol. I still just want to know what I would be up against to return to stock if I HAD to.

Well, here's an idea based on what you're wanting:

Take a wire (from the harness leading to the ECU that the standback needs) and cut it. Now, install a connector that is water-resistant (like molex type or something from Radio Shack) and wire one side of the connector on one side of your cut wire, and the other connector on the other side of your cut wire. This means you can reconnect those two wires back together simply by plugging the connector together, right?

Now, take the Xede or other standback wiring and take the same type of connector attach to each wire the appropriate male or female connector end. This means you essentially can plug the standback in, or disconnect it entirely. Do each wire carefully and one at a time, with either a different color connector or at least some sort of identifier like wrapped colored electrical tape. Match up the colors, and voila! You could even take this a tiny bit further and install a connector designed to run multiple wires at the same time.

By doing this and mating the correct "In" wires to the correct "Out" wires, you'd easily be able to plug in the standback and remove it, within minutes.

092-516m.jpg

092-514m.jpg

mx150l_intro.jpg
 
Back