Idea for Xede.... advice needed

[palerider]

That is great. You wouldnt need the "bypass" that comes with the standback if you wired it this way would you? And after taking the EMS out the only thing left in the bay would be just the clip you posted... you need like 20 wires for the standback right? You could probably do it with just one clip.

One of my neighbors is an electrician whose semi retired.... Im gonna have him look at this.... I hate jerryrigged s***. I want this to look factory and be able to be swapped out in under a minute.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[fourthmeal]

I don't know how many wires, but I imagine 1/2 of them go to the ECU, and 1/2 come from the ECU. As an interceptor, of course. So it makes sense that a single connector per wiring bunch could do it. My suggestion would be to do it yourself (it will still be PRO...but you can verify it was done right), one pin at a time. You cut a wire that you know you need to cut, and pull a little insulation off each side. Then crimp or solder on the pin. Then slide the pin in the connector, and it is complete on that side. Do the other side, one at a time again...you've got it in no time. Maybe an hour with a solder iron, if that? I recommend the Butane powered soldering irons available at Radio Shack. I've got a few of them, and they work in any condition.

Once you have the factory wiring pinned out, and wired properly, then you can reconnect the halves together again and verify perfect function as if you've not touched anything. From here, you can install the pins to the connector on the Xede harness, not even being installed in the car. From here, its a matter of truly plug-and-play.

 

[palerider]

That does sound easy.... holy cow.

Has anybody else done this?
Why isnt everybody doing it this way. This sounds like it would be the obvious method for everyone.....

 

[fourthmeal]

Perhaps if someone had a wiring breakdown I could get it more detailed. I'm merely going by experience in other fields involving wiring. Since this type of wiring doesn't depend on a signal like component video cables do (like 75 ohm coaxial issues), it makes sense that this type of connector should be doable. Meaning sometimes a connector could affect the signal in some way...but this time with this type of wiring I doubt that. I think the only time it could turn into a problem is if you use a non-outdoor connector, which could be a cause for corrosion and failure. Molex connectors are typically A-OK for outdoor or at least somewhat abusive environments.

 

[redrocketz]

Hey Palerider it wouldn't be that hard to wire in with some sort of removable harness but it would take some time because of the way the systems are wired in. You have to make sure the connectors are very good quality and have NO way of coming apart on their own. The ECU on your car is right next to the battery so not hard to get to at all.

 

[fourthmeal]

I think using these Molex-style connectors with each pin soldered in place should prove to be durable. You can also order these types of connectors in weather-proof versions. Problem potentially solved, IMO.

 

[StephanieT]

The black connectors pictured above would do the job well. The harness includes male/female spaded so that it can be unplugged rather fast. But they are slightly bulky and not as nice looking as the black connector.

It really is not hard to wire these in. The process spelled out above would work well. I would just add some heat shrink over all the connections, if possible.

If you swapped ECU's at a later point, you only remove the old and plug in the new. No new wiring to the engine bay is needed.
Stephanie

 

[JimmyMac]

Where can I get those black connectors in the picture? I need those for my XEDE. I've been wanting to do that for some time now.

I'm having trouble with one of my "T-taps". I think it's the power wire for the XEDE. Sometimes I'm driving the car and it'll stumble and stall out. Very dangerous while driving. I had no clue what was causing my car to do this randomly for the past several months. A few weeks ago it caused me to stall out in the middle of the road while pulling out of a side street. Luckily the car restarted and I pulled into a parking lot and found the problem. One of the T-taps is barely making a connection to the XEDE. I guess over time, the clamp on the wire either wore down the wire or the slot where it's suppose to make contact with the wire. So if you wiggle the wire/t-tap, the car will stumble and/or cut off. The XEDE looses power.

My temp fix for this was to get a piece of yarn/string, and kinda tie it around the wire and T-tap so that the wire doesn't move around in the t-tap/clamp. So far it has worked. But I need a more permanent solution. I was gonna solder in the wire. But I was hoping the XEDE would become PnP by now. I guess not. So my other option will be to use these connectors.

So does anyone have any links to buy them? Thanks for any help.

 

[fourthmeal]

you've gotta use the power of the internet, my man! Dig around and look for places that sell connectors and such. I found a few of them at www.partsexpress.com, but there are other places too.

I need to know how many wires go where for the standback, so we'll know what connector to get.

 

[JimmyMac]

I know I can use search. But I figure fellow Mazda members would know off hand and help out with answers. Saves me trouble looking for that specific one. Thanks for the link.

 

[fourthmeal]

I'm powerless to help without understanding where the wires go, and how many need to be connected. If someone has that information, I'll work for a solution.

 

[mooserov]

Painless makes aftermarket and custom built harnesses. They have a 12 circuit weatherpack pigtail connecter kit for less than 10 bucks. Built for conditions under the hood. Link goes to 6 circuit, but i think the pic is of a 3 circuit.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70406