mazda = thinnest paint on earth?

Water color

SwampAss said:
I drive the same freakin road to work every day that I drove when I had my 1.8T GTI. I had a few boo boos from rocks over the course of 2 years but not like I do with this car. Anyone else getting the s*** kicked out of them from road debris and rocks? These are to the primer.


16 days old and 3 chips already..
 
BTW, mazda is proactive in some way by atleast sending out touch-up paint to their customers, I know even my VW didnt get that treatment (although I did get a cool wool washmit...)

Well I have the same problem with rock chips in my hood. Service mgr says thats normal, I have had my car only 5 mo. and the hood looks awful from the rock chips. And as far as the touch up paint, it doesn't match right. I have a silver m3 and the touch up paint the sent me dries more of a white silver, so now I have spots on my hood, and they even matched it up w/ my VIN.

Maybe if enough people call Mazda Cust solutions and complain they might look into a fix or repair.
 
wow a lot of miss information in this thread
1) paint thickness doesn't cause stone chip problems. it has more to do with the areodymics of the car and the bond between the sealer and base coat. the problem might be closer to the flash time between sealer and base at the factory also it has a looott to do with driving habits i don't have any chips.. don't ride peoples ass.
2) another coat of clear will not do anything but will cost a lot.. actually 1 coat of clear is stronger than 5
3) orange peal it self has nothing to do with prep work. that would be suck back which is where the paint actually falls down in to the previous coat as it drys, orange peal on the other hand it when its applied either some peal, perfectly glass which would happen about 1% of the time, or a run. its depends how heavy the coat is applied ,gun distance, over lap and pressure.. you can see it better on a black car if you don't like it sand and buff it back

i work at a Toyota dealership and they have been paying to repaint the fj cruisers because of the 2 tone where the white over lap is the paint chips really easy but the only true fix would be to sand it down to sealer then seal base and clear, or touch them up with color then clear and cut and buff it, i have also seen some people air brush them in but any metallic color wont look good as the metallics have to be sprayed to orient them self
 
Regarding #44: I've attached a pic of gravel road damage (note: same on both sides of the car) that wouldn't have occurred if the body side moldings for the lower edge of the doors had been installed above the curtain molding. Anyone care to guess how much I can expect to pay for this to be fixed professionally? (I'm gonna do something about it before we hit the snow season, even if I have to get out my Dremel to surface it and hit it with some Bar Keeper's Friend and touch-up nailpolish^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hpaint afterward. (nailbyt) Will post update pics then.)
 

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I'd be willing to pay $500 extra for a car if they'd put the 3M on at the factory. My car only had 2069 miles on it when I found it and it's chipped up pretty nicely. I guess someone enjoyed tailgating gravel trucks.
 
if i did the repair on that i would sand it down and prime it keeping the area small then back tape that edge by the molding and tape a hard line in the jamb then paint it then put a piece of the 3m protective tape on it since u prob don't have the stuff to do that i would sand it down prime it and brush touch it very lightly with many coats then put some clear spray paint on a brush and apply a couple coats then put your tape over IMO
Bar Keeper's Friend= bad idea
use 80 grit sand paper then work up in grits till at 220 for prime
ya might be able to get a shop to fix it for cheap if ya tell them how ya want it done



Regarding #44: I've attached a pic of gravel road damage (note: same on both sides of the car) that wouldn't have occurred if the body side moldings for the lower edge of the doors had been installed above the curtain molding. Anyone care to guess how much I can expect to pay for this to be fixed professionally? (I'm gonna do something about it before we hit the snow season, even if I have to get out my Dremel to surface it and hit it with some Bar Keeper's Friend and touch-up nailpolish^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hpaint afterward. (nailbyt) Will post update pics then.)
 
my first winter coming up with the mazda. hoping rock salt and sand doesn't have a holiday with the car. getting nervous now since i've been hearing about the bad paint
 
I drive 100 miles a day roundtrip for my job. They recently redid a 3-5 mile section in both directions. Doesn't matter how close you are to the car in front of you at ~70mph the gravel comes from all directions. my car got peppered, wish I would have gotten the 3m clear bra when I got it
 
I searched the internet, an i found a way to make the paint on our cars stronger... they say to put alcohol in the hood area, on a hot day, right after the hood is real hot from all that driving around... make sure you put a good amount too.. then let it stay there without rinsing it ... all day long.... the next day, you'll be happy to drive around your car with alcohol written all over it ... enjoy.... you guys can thank me later ;-)
 
Coming out of a 06 Honda Civic EX Sedan to my 3 Sedan is like night and day. The paint on our Hondas is awful thin. The Mazda paint is a lot thicker. Its even thicker than the paint on our 05 Accord sedan.

No rock chips on the Mazda3 yet at two months of ownership. With the Civic it was chipped up bad in a month. I drive 80 to 95 miles a day. The paint is a orange peeled mess. I don't think there was enough paint on the Civic to peel bad. It was there but the car was silver. The Mazda being phantom purple will show the peel.

Other than the peel,,, Ive been impressed with the paint.
 
I was searching around for the thread about Paint Chipping. Mine is horrible. I brought it to the dealer today, the Floor Manager understood where I was coming from. The hood has about 100 dings down to the primer, the front bumper alot as well, and even the sides and back. i drive less then 10km a day, and not even highway, furthermore its Montreal, and the streets are swept once a week. Very little highway driving, the manager agreed that he could see the issue I was having if it had around 100k, as opposed to 40k, and it was a 5 year old car, and not a 2 year old car. Then he sent out this little dipshit service manager "ahh thats road rash" "me no s***, its also bad because there is virtually no clear coat to protect the paint on it"

So as of right now, the floor manager agrees and they are gonna see what they can do about it.
 
I had this put on my MS3 the day after I brought it home from the dealership: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotchgard_Paint_Protection/Film/

Before I had bought the car I had read about how terrible the paint is. It's slightly less terrible on my wife's '09 3i Touring Black Mica but she still has a ton of chips. Nonetheless it might be something worth looking into if the dealership fixes the paint for you.
 
Got a good size rust spot underneath my rear hatch window...They won't fix it..Told me it was gonna be $400-$500 to fix...I have extended warranty for mechanical only they told me. I've had the car for just over 2 years....It's an 07 MS3 white...It's never been used in the winter (by me)...I use my Subaru in the winter....Just another sucker gettin ****** by Mazda!!!!!
 
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