Throw Down! MS3 260whp 300wtq

there's only one way to find out. Go to the track :D

I've been to the track 3 times in about two months. I dare say that I've got more track miles than any other Speed3 in the country! going again in two weeks (naughty)

but if you mean the 1/4-mile strip, that's not my cup of tea. Besides, the Speed3 is a byotch to launch hard. I much prefer "real" tracks where I can open it up for miles on end without fear of cops.
 
you perfer real track but yet do 120-140 regulary on streets? Am i reading this right lol. Anyway as i said before, the power you are making is because of your a/f ratio. Why its perfect? Who knows. You posted a high dyno for your car, did u expect anything else but doubt. Go down to the 1/4 track do 3 runs or whatever u get, with those kinds of numbers you should be easily in the 103-105 range mph. If your in the 99-101 range, than u got a bogus dyno
 
what type of dyno was it ?

Mustand vs. Dynopak's are wayyyyyy different.

Dynopaks are the most acurate in my opinion !
 
yeah. go to the 1/4 mile. Even if you hate it, do it once to see the results. as laloosh said.
 
Hi guys, this is Paul L. from Yimi Sport Tuning. I dynoed ZooZoom's car as well as a bunch of others this past Saturday. We usually deal with Subaru's and Evo's, but since I'm actually a former Mazda6 owner, so I figured I check in here.

Anyways, ZooZoom's car was certainly very impressive. I really cannot explain why his car did as well as it did on the first 2 runs. 255-260 whp and 300wtq was well beyond what I would have expected to see out of that car. A typical stock Evo or STi puts down about 245whp on our Dynojet, so for ZooZoom's car to exceed that with nothing more than a TMIC upgrade was very surprising. The car was warmed up prior to the run to get the fluids up to temperature, and we sprayed down the TMIC and radiator with water to help keep them as cool as possible during the run. I made all the runs in 4th gear and with the hood closed. I will note as ZooZoom did, that the 3rd run (done after a 5 minute cool down with the engine off) dropped off significantly in both whp and wtq. Torque in particular fell off pretty dramatically.

If I were a betting man, I'd say that the operating conditions for the first 2 runs were optimal for the ECU to supply all the timing advance and boost allowed in the maps. The subsequent runs probably had coolant temps and/or air intake temps higher than a threshold point where the correction tables in the ECU calls for boost and/or timing to be pulled. Judging from the big loss of torque we saw on later runs, I'd say that the ECU trimmed back the wastegate duty cycles to reduce the amount of boost. I did also put my hand on the ETS TMIC after the last run, as I was wondering if the IC was heatsoaked and remarkably the portion closest to the throttle body was still cool to the touch, so I don't think that high manifold air charge temps (and the usual resultant detonation/timing pulls) caused the reduction in power on the last runs.

One last note that I feel should be addressed is that by nature Dynojets are pretty dang consistent from unit to unit. They calculate power from acceleration of a known mass (the rollers). There are no user definable variables such as you will find on a Mustang dyno, Dynapak, Dyno Dynamics or other dynos out there. What you see is what you get. The only correction factors are the different worldwide industry standards. We use SAE and it compensates for temperature, elevation and humidity differences. In the case of ZooZoom's car, I believe it added 5% to his numbers due to the ambient temps being 100* and the shop being at 1000ft above sea level. Of that 5%, 1% is due to elevation and the other 4% was for the ambient temp.

I'm headed to the shop now, so I'm going to pull the runfiles and the jpg's from all the runs from the dyno computer and send them over to ZooZoom.
 
Go down to the 1/4 track do 3 runs or whatever u get, with those kinds of numbers you should be easily in the 103-105 range mph. If your in the 99-101 range, than u got a bogus dyno

I would fully expect ZooZoom's car to trap in the 103+ range with the numbers that he put down, since my personal car is an 05 Subaru Legacy GT that made 255whp/288wtq on the same dyno and I trapped at 100mph. This was at LACR which is one of the slowest tracks in the nation, and my car weighs about 300 lbs more than an MS3.
 
I'll drag ZooZoom's butt out to the track so I can see what his car will do! (laugh) If he doesn't want to run it himself, he's more than welcome to toss me the keys and I'll do it for him!:)
 
Sorry in me asking roughly howmuch would it cost for a single dyno and anyone know any place in Fort Lauderdale FL area where i can get a Dyno
 
I've usually gotten a few pulls without tuning for around $50 bucks.

That is really cheap. The going rate in the SoCal area is $80-$90 for 3 pulls with no tuning. Our group dyno day rate is $60.

BTW, as requested, here are a couple of graphs of ZooZoom's cars. I picked the runs 2 and 3. 1 and 2 were about the same, but I forgot to put in the wideband on run 1, so I figured you guys would want to see the difference in AFR's between a run when the coolant and air temps were decent. Run 3 was after a brief 5 minute cool down, but obviously the ECU saw operating conditions it did not like and ran the car much richer, with less timing and likely with less boost as well (especially in the midrange).

With SAE correction:
Run2vsRun3SAE.jpg


Uncorrected:
Run2versusRun3NOcorrection.jpg


For reference, here is a bone stock EVO9:
stockEVO9.jpg
 
Some dynos do read higher than others... no secret there... doesn't mean something is wrong or his numbers are BS. But on one car that I owned and built and dynoed many times (not the MS), I did find that Dynojets were fairly consistent from one to the next.

I'm not surprised at all.... Sport Compact Car mag tested a stock MS3 and got 250 whp and 280 ftlbs, and then tested one with the Mazdaspeed CAI and cat back and made 264 whp and about 300 ftlbs of torque.

I know I've heard of others picking up over 20 hp and 20 ft lbs from the better TMIC. All in all I think his results are completely legitimate and TMIC is definately up there on my list of things to do.
 
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thanks Paul for coming to the board and sharing the uncorrected dyno plots along with your wealth of knowledge.

I'm just very proud and very satisfied to own a virtually stock Speed3 that beats out a stock EVO on the same dyno. Sure, the EVO would get a jump out of the hole in a drag race. But from a roll over 30 mph I dare say that my Speed3 would surprise a few stock EVO and STI guys. Probably not toast them. But just to stay + or - a car length up to triple digit speeds would be a kick in a car that cost $10 grand less. (wow)
 
thanks Paul for coming to the board and sharing the uncorrected dyno plots along with your wealth of knowledge.

I'm just very proud and very satisfied to own a virtually stock Speed3 that beats out a stock EVO on the same dyno. Sure, the EVO would get a jump out of the hole in a drag race. But from a roll over 30 mph I dare say that my Speed3 would surprise a few stock EVO and STI guys. Probably not toast them. But just to stay + or - a car length up to triple digit speeds would be a kick in a car that cost $10 grand less. (wow)

No problem Kev, glad to help. You would indeed give any stock Evo or STi a very good run, but you know you'll just be staring at my ever shrinking taillights when I get my motor back in the car and get it fully tuned out (nana)(rofl2)
 
of that I have no doubt. you Legacy with around 500 whp would give 99.9% of cars on planet earth a beating, at least up to 150 mph when you run out of 5th gear (need to start thinkin 'bout a 6MT swap).
 
of that I have no doubt. you Legacy with around 500 whp would give 99.9% of cars on planet earth a beating, at least up to 150 mph when you run out of 5th gear (need to start thinkin 'bout a 6MT swap).

8500 rpm redline on the fully built motor FTW! I just ran the numbers through a calculator and I theoretically have enough gear as is to run 210 mph(hitit) Of course that's not realistic, but the 175 mph a little over 7000 rpm doesn't seem that unreasonable to me... not that there is any kind of road available to me out there for me to test that theory.(wrc)
 
PISADONG, Is there something that allow you to keep the wastegate open? Is that Dangerous? What are the risks?

"Judging from the big loss of torque we saw on later runs, I'd say that the ECU trimmed back the wastegate duty cycles to reduce the amount of boost."

The TMIC as I have always stated is one of the best upgrades under $550!!
 
PISADONG, Is there something that allow you to keep the wastegate open? Is that Dangerous? What are the risks?

"Judging from the big loss of torque we saw on later runs, I'd say that the ECU trimmed back the wastegate duty cycles to reduce the amount of boost."

The TMIC as I have always stated is one of the best upgrades under $550!!

We did not make any changes to ZooZoom's car. You could in theory bypass the factory boost control system with either an electronic or manual boost controller, but I have no idea if that is safe on an MS3. If the ECU will not add sufficient fuel to compensate for the increases airflow, then you will lean out the air/fuel ratio to unacceptable levels. You will have pinging and detonation which can cause very serious damage.
 

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