Who here actually blows through the MAF??

Super Matty P

Banned
:
2003 Supercharged Protege5
How many of you turbo guys have blown through your MAF and what (if any) problems did you incurr(sp?)

Due to the bottlenecks of our MAF and TB I'm going to try blowing through the MAF so I can run 3"-2.5" reducer to the MAF, 2.5" -2.25" on the MAF and 2.25" from the MAF to the TB. This should provide the least amount of bottlenecks from the blower to the TB. My local speedshop that blowing the MAF on the 1992 turbo miata didn't work for them. I tried explaining they are slightly different cars a decade apart.

So who has actually blown through the MAF and what was your experience?

Also, Do any of you aftermarket boosted proteges have problems "maxing out" the stock MAF's voltage? How much cfm does it take to max this out? How do you get around this if it's a problem? I know Juan ran 20psi on his car with the Maf and didn't have any problems...
 
I know Brian was using the blow through set-up at one point before his motor went south, and Im sure a search using his name would yield some info for ya...unless he throws in his own 2 cents in this thread..you could always run a larger MAF, MPNick sells one
 
KzA said:
you could always run a larger MAF, MPNick sells one
^^ not going to happen. Thanks for the input though. I'm just looking to work around the restraints of the stock MAF.
 
actualy, you really only need it to keep the stock ecu from tossing a CEL
just have it infront of the blower and everything should be fine
 
yea but im sure he wants to satisfy the stock ECU...CELs are obnoxious trust me..

The MSP guys were trying this quite often not too long ago hen they all realized that when they ran a BOV instead of a recirc. they would stall like a motha..

A bunch of dudes in this thread http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49109&page=2&pp=15&highlight=blow-through
seem to like their setups and run into no problems...

IIRC people have run up to 13 psi on a blow-through and havent ran into voltage max out problems...
 
how about, run a MAP, and make a "leaky" Y-shaped intake pipe before the blower. basically cut the air the MAF sees in half or so. the ECU wont pull the timing, and the MAP will provide the Haltech with fuel calibration
 
the haltech comes with a 2bar GM map sensor, it is a full stand alone unit for fuel, the only stock sensor it needs is the crank position sensor
 
I hear the MAF actually adjusts the timing tables also. The easiest way to verify this would be to have Ken disconnect his MAF clip from the sensor and try driving it. My car is down right now whileI get the piping plumbed but if it doesn't cause any problems for him I think I'll be fine.

Aric, not to argue but everything you've said totally disagrees with everyone else. How come no'one else running the hiboost kit has gotten rid of their MAF??
 
Aricjm15 said:
actualy, you really only need it to keep the stock ecu from tossing a CEL
just have it infront of the blower and everything should be fine
I can just quote my self to answer that
its all to keep the stock ECU happy, no maf = CEL
 
timing is controlled by a whole mix of shitI guess, starting with the knock sensor, moving to the crappy stock map sensor, the stock ecu probably just follows the map it has when looking at the MAF signal.
the ECU can only retard timing, it cannot advance it any more than what its map has specified
 
You need to keep the MAF sensor before the inlet of turbo or superchager to get the timing correction. Tha MAF does a big job in the timing control. You can vent the bov with no problem .
 
Juan, what kind of neative effect do you see me having if I were to blow through the MAF? I remember reading several trheads about people doing it with no problems.

Juan, have you had any problems maxing out the voltage on the stock MAF? If so what did this do to your driveability?
 
Super Matty P said:
Juan, what kind of neative effect do you see me having if I were to blow through the MAF? I remember reading several trheads about people doing it with no problems.

Juan, have you had any problems maxing out the voltage on the stock MAF? If so what did this do to your driveability?
You won't be maxing out the voltage until you're running ~220+whp
 
Kooldino said:
You won't be maxing out the voltage until you're running ~220+whp


what about the MSP's hittin spark cut at 10-11psi.....is that 225+whp?? I couldn't imagine it making that much power running as slow as they are....as slow as mine was.
 
the msp is hitting a fuel cut not a spark cut. my advice is to not blow through the MAF like juan said. put it right after the intake air filter before the blower. if you start trying to trick the MAF with resistors i think you are getting into ghettofab territory.
 
you can't hit "fuel cut" under boost. you'll destroy your engine. MSP's actually shut off spark to the plugs to keep the cylinder from combusting further.

Dana seems to think it'll be fine to blow through up until about 225whp. Which suits me fine since I'm shooting for 200whp only.

I'm going to try it this way (blowing through) and see what happens.
 
If the P5 ecu was never "taught" to see boost, does it act the same as a MSP when hitting the 5v's? I imagine it has to do something to protect itself and more than likely throws a code, but does it actually do the same thing?
 
natey's miata boosts through the MAF and he hasn't had a single issue.

slightly different car or not, an MAF is an MAF
 

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