What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
no, if your stalling, your prolly leaking air. Check that the valve isnt stuck.
Ive run the reflex and with proper install (proper nipples and placement) you shouldnt have turkey. Ive never had turkey with any upgraded recirc ive had.
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
Received CELs P2006 and P0660 today.... I guess I need to check my WGA again and vac lines.
Why? Neither of those are a "System too Lean" code.
TheDirtyGoatee
Member
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- 2008 Mazda MX-5 5MT PRHT
P2006 is what I have been throwing for a while. I replaced my WGA and it didn't fix that. However, what I have found is that the P2006 is actually a VTCS issue. Intake manifold, is yours stock?
Ok, any help appreciated. Prior to installing my reflex diverter valve (BPV) I have been idling low rpms (700-800) and when idling sometimes it dips like it wants to stall but it doesnt. I had my car checked but was told it wasnt the wastegate. I am boosting around 9 psi now, im afraid to keep on it to see how high it will go, but when boosting in all gears once it hits 9 psi all of a sudden the boost cuts out, car bucks and then I just keep going. I recently had a 1" nipple welded onto my hotpipe and my air intake pipe and had the boostsciences Reflex Diverter Valve put in (like a bpv with 1" inlet and outlet) I have not run a dedicated line to it yet off the brake booster but will be doing so. However now when I drive I still have the turkey and when I let off throttle and stop it wants to stall but it doesnt always stall. It is almost as if I had put a blow off valve on without relocating the maf. that is the manner in which it is stalling. I do not know what is going on with my car, i dont know why ive been having boost cut out before this mod and I dont know why after the mod im stalling. any help is appreciated.
Ok upon further examination I do not have 1" nipple on the hotpipe like I thought was welded on there. The shop didnt call to see if I still wanted it welded cause of the damage to the ceramic coating, they simply chose to leave the 5/8 nipple that is running into a 1" nipple. So I think that may cause some problems. here are some pics of the setup:
^^^ That's a pretty nasty bend in the vacuum line. Back when I had my MAM FMIC I had the BoostSciences RDV and has absolutely no turkey whatsoever and I didn't even have a dedicated vacuum line running to it. I even ran the RDV as a BOV for a short period of time (long story) but that's when I started to get some turkey. Now I have a HKS SSQV with a dedicated vacuum source (brake booster) and I only get turkey at really low boost levels. It's perfect. The turkey appears to be a function of many things: diameter of flanges, vacuum source, valve's distance from the compressor outlet, etc.
do you think having the smic makes a difference? I dont see how it could but who knows, im grasping at any explanationright now, could having a 5/8" nipple on the hotpipe feeding into a 1" inlet on the rdv be causing me problems? im really pissed at the shop for not asking me if I still wanted the 1" fitting welded on the hotpipe before they simply chose not to do it. Not to mention the geniuss put it on backwards, put outlet at the hotpipe and the inlet at the intake
Well it is official, im taking my car back to the shop that did the welding. The fuckheads didnt put a 1" fitting on my air intake pipe like I asked they put a 3/4" pipe on there. They didnt put a 1" fitting on my hotpipe like I asked, the left the 5/8" fitting on that came with the pipe. all of this combined is causing my car to stall and for the turkey to remain. wish me luck yall, this damn turkey is a pita to get rid of lol
