trick my ecu to thinking its always cold?

[CHIQLES]

it would take along time to heat. on cold mornings you would only get to about 135 and the check engine light will come on. True eventually you will heat up but you would have had to have driven and stood along time at idle. i have a app on my phone that screams at me for driveing hard until the motor hits 175 on temperature.. i have the low temp stat but im getting rid of it once i get a full size radiator

 

[dacquesta1]

Alejo I hope your being sarcastic

 

[tweety2300]

Will a car even run after you remove the battery while it's runing? I'd love to see a car run with no o2 or maf sensor. Id say it's sarcasm

 

[dacquesta1]

Lol yeah I figured after I re-read what he saidsaid

 

[StealthWyvern]

it would take along time to heat. on cold mornings you would only get to about 135 and the check engine light will come on. True eventually you will heat up but you would have had to have driven and stood along time at idle. i have a app on my phone that screams at me for driveing hard until the motor hits 175 on temperature.. i have the low temp stat but im getting rid of it once i get a full size radiator

Interesting... What app is this and how is it monitoring your temps?

Will a car even run after you remove the battery while it's runing? I'd love to see a car run with no o2 or maf sensor. Id say it's sarcasm

I know the car will run or well at least idle and rev up a little without the MAF. I forgot to plug it in once. It was hard to start but once it did. It stumbled for a few and smoothed out.

 

[tweety2300]

Any fi car will be faster in cold weather because of the denser air more air = more power. If your car thinks its colder out but it's not it will just run rich. The information in this thread is just terrible

 

[Jo060]

Any fi car will be faster in cold weather because of the denser air more air = more power. If your car thinks its colder out but it's not it will just run rich. The information in this thread is just terrible

I'm certain *most* of the info in this thread is to be taken lightly as it's a joke.

 

[f1yen]

Aside from joking, I also am interested in this "tricking" the ecu thing. From my current experience before the Ect is at operating temp, the car is wicked quick.
I tested this by being in 3rd gear 30mph to 60mph. 5.76 seconds, before the car is at full operating temp, then 30 seconds later do it again 30 to 60mph, 6.82 seconds. Since this is done right after another this does not have to do with the "colder air outside" It has to do with the ecu mapping.
(BTW I am non flashed- and it is my next thing to-do)

Does anyone have data on the timing data of the ecu? (via IAT or ECT changes?)

Small changes in the ECT (aka adding a resistor(or pot) in series) may have good benefits. (and by this I mean adjusting the sensor output, and not just putting a resistor on the ECT/IAT plug etc.

 

[pbarton14]

Thank you that's what im talking about^^^
Now all you would have to do is wire the coolant fan up so the car doesn't over heat and we should be good to go right?

 

[tweety2300]

Ya sure take advise from someone runing an fsde hard when it's not fully warmed up. If you want it faster get a tune and be done with it your starting to talk like poor Honda kids next will be a whale tail and chrome rims

 

[f1yen]

I havent given any advice, I am merely stating facts, and then asking questions....

Its not like i pull outta my spot and floor it, the car is ALMOST at operating temp and its very fast, then immediatly after (20-30 seconds) when the car IS at operating temp, it is much slower.

You are spot on with saying that I dont have a lot of money to throw at the car, college is expensive.

I am very interested in knowing how the timing curves are effected by changes in IAT and ECT, I would love to own an automotive scanner and log some data, but once again... college. So if anyone can shed some light on this, that'd be great.

 

[tweety2300]

I'm pretty sure the car will run lean when warming up at least Pontiac vibes do. You can't change what temp the enine thinks the air is pulling in because it will run either way to rich and damage the cats or piston rings or it will run too lean and you'll blow it up under boost. You can change operating temps but the oil won't be as thin as it should be and may not lubricate properly. And we all know how fragile the fsde is and how bad the oil pump does. If you want more power get an ssafc and be done with it you'll get more power reliability and gas mileage that way. Or don't take anybody's advise and do what you want I would recommend having a spare motor though your money your car

 

[pbarton14]

See that's the funny thing, I have a ssafc! Relocated maf too , hardpipes and fmic. Should I try the maf back on the intake side?

 

[tweety2300]

Did you tune it what afrs do you run?

 

[flatlander937]

Will a car even run after you remove the battery while it's runing? I'd love to see a car run with no o2 or maf sensor. Id say it's sarcasm

Yes it will run as long as the alternator is working. I've changed batteries in Hondas occasionally with the engine still running so that I don't have to call the Honda dealer to get a 5 digit radio code. I don't make a habit of it, but nothing bad has ever happened. Long term it will put a huge strain on the alternator and you'll probably kill it. Taking 2 min to change a battery, not so much... just don't let the + lead touch a ground.




To the OP... The main reason the car is so much quicker when you are in open loop is that it is running off of pre-set maps in the ECM... when it switches over to closed loop you are now basing all the readings off of all the sensors, IAT, ECT, and O2 sensors included.


Did you know that when you have your throttle at 100%, it switches over to open loop regardless of temperature? Damn near every car does this. Also most cars will disable the A/C compressor when the throttle is at 100% as well just so you know.


To f1yen: when you did you 3rd gear accelleration test.... were you completely flooring it 100%? If not, that might have something to do with it as in open loop it is attempting to control emissions. In my experience/opinion it seems that cars in closed loop will be a bit "slower" to respond to throttle input changes... and my guess as to why this is(or seems to be to me) is because it's running off of a pre-determined map with all known values.... it doesn't have to compute the outputs of the O2 sensors to figure out how much fuel to dump.


Pretty much everything that Mustard97 said is right on. Screwing with the ECT will make it run like crap unless it's reading the actual coolant temp(like installing a lower temp thermostat... which is also ******* stupid).


Why don't you watch your IAT #s from a cold start. You might find that the actual air intake temps has a lot to do with why it is a bit faster when cold... especially because it is a turbo car and after the intercooler gets heatsoaked, it won't be as much of a help. It's not uncommon for me to see 100-110 degree IATs on cars in the shop I work in after driving them on the road and bring them into the shop(which is kept at about 70-72 degrees). They will occasionally get down to 90-95 degrees if it is idling in my bay for a while. While moving down the road, they will generally be about 20ish degrees above ambient except for some cars that have very direct air intakes... such as Infiniti G35s.

 

[f1yen]

See that's the funny thing, I have a ssafc! Relocated maf too , hardpipes and fmic. Should I try the maf back on the intake side?

ohh, ya dont fxck with the iat or ect if you have a ssafc! Cant you just tune it out from the ssafc?
Maybe you lost your superstock map or what-not? I hear from other people that they need to reload it? Or reading SS manuals, the ecu may have adapted to your tuning if you did not have your net trim near zero...

To Flatlander, I am pretty darn sure I was at WOT, I have done it more than once, (but its right before operating temp so dont get alot of shots at it) I originaly thought it would be the open loop, which just pulls data from the MAF, and is uncorrected with STFT. (i believe).
I guess i was just posting my experiences, ik the fsde runs on toothpicks, thats why I am at stock boost etc.

What i heard from other people is that the car goes into closed loop in something like 30 seconds, so I assumed i was in closed loop and then going into WOT for the runs. so this led me to belive that it is revolving around timing. and all I know is that timing is controlled by ECT, IAT, and knock sensor. This is why I still would like to get the reflash, because i know they updated the timing...

Tweety Obviously the best way to go about this is to get the ssafc, but some people love the reflash(some people hate it), so i thought id give it a try.

 

[tweety2300]

The reflash still won't run as good as it would with the ssafc

 

[hornsfan10609]

I havent given any advice, I am merely stating facts, and then asking questions....

Its not like i pull outta my spot and floor it, the car is ALMOST at operating temp and its very fast, then immediatly after (20-30 seconds) when the car IS at operating temp, it is much slower.

You are spot on with saying that I dont have a lot of money to throw at the car, college is expensive.

I am very interested in knowing how the timing curves are effected by changes in IAT and ECT, I would love to own an automotive scanner and log some data, but once again... college. So if anyone can shed some light on this, that'd be great.

I don't recommend you get the reflash, not only is it irreversible it won't actually help the car run better.

The way I see it, the reflash is about $100+ and you will still have a car that runs rich and hesitates. May as well put that money towards a piggyback.

 

[Toasty]

this thread makes me /facepalm