Question about tire repair

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2017 CX3 AWD
Folks, is it common for tire shops to plug a puncture instead of patching it? I remember when I was with a different shop years ago, they took the tire off the wheel and glued a small patch from the inside.

Now with this shop, I notice a small ball of something protruding from the puncture spot after the repair. It costs $45. I understand that plugging is faster, but is it as solid?
 
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So there are three ways to fix a puncture: patch, plug, and plug+patch. Mine were only plugs because they were done really quickly. There was no mentioning of a subsequent patch. I will ask the shop owner today when I go back to order a new set from him.

... He said it depends on the location of the puncture and the angle of the nail. In my case, plugs were better. I should look into using DIY kits. 😳
 
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The new set arrived at the shop this afternoon so I went and got them mounted. Saved $20 by hauling the worn set home.

Once at home, I was able to locate all 4 plugs plus a new puncture (brad nail?) that hasn't done any harm yet. 😬 I didn't notice that nail until I ran my hand down the interior/lining. The plugs are solid, I don't know enough to say that they're insufficient. They definitely were fast to put on.
 

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The first pic below (with a rock) shows the deformation on the inside of the tire. The second one shows the outside that sees the sun.
 

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I bought this set of Bridgestone Turanza in April 2024 for $405 from SimpleTire.com. They were brand new but old (from late 2020 and early 2021). I remember laughing at myself for getting what I paid for: half the price, half the life. In two years I got maybe 48K miles out of them. Four punctures cost another $180.

215/50R18 is not a popular size.

The new set is Armstrong Blu-Trac HP with DOT code 0126.
 

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Folks, is it common for tire shops to plug a puncture instead of patching it ... I understand that plugging is faster, but is it as solid?

I almost always get my tires through DiscountTire (America's Tire); previously, years ago out West, through Les Schwab. The tires have always come with a "road hazard" coverage, including any patching or replacement of valves.

RE patching -- Through DiscountTire, their patching jobs have always been patches and not plugs. And they warrant them for for the full life of the tire on that car.

Have once had patches done at a different shop, not DiscountTire. And that patch failed within two years (slow leak). At least so far, over a ~dozen patches on several sets of tires I've purchased through DiscountTire, I have yet to see one of their patching jobs leak further. Those seem to be quite durable. And they're guaranteed to not leak, else they'll replace the tire. Haven't needed to test them on this, as none of the patches have failed. But, so far so good.

I bought this set of Bridgestone Turanza in April 2024 ... The new set is Armstrong Blu-Trac HP

With a price difference between those two, I don't much blame you for changing.

Haven't ever had a set of Armstrongs. (And I don't often do a 'basic' all-season type tire anymore, given where I live.) But once you've had these on for a couple of season I'd be interested in hearing how these compare to the Turanzas (and other similar tires you've used on this car), for basic handling, performance in certain conditions.
 
I drove about 40K KM on a plugged tire. It never leaked.

With the cracking seen on your tires and how close they are to the wear bars, I would be looking to replace them very soon.

You can play around with different tire sizes, etc. 225/45R18 - much more common size, will fit fine, or consider switching to 16's or 17's.
 
I also bought some conti's with an old DOT date, lots of tread at about half price two years ago.

They started cracking shortly after I began using them, but they were subjected to the sun for two summers straight, and not designed for the cornering I subjected them to.

Moving forward, I decided it's best to spend extra on tires that are actually suited for the cornering I tend to do, and with a more recent DOT date.
 
Patch with the plug is the proper and best way to go. Cracking indicates dry rot, get rid of them. Also, when you buy a "new" set of tires check the date code. Anything older than 7 years is a no-go.
 
I almost always get my tires through DiscountTire (America's Tire); previously, years ago out West, through Les Schwab. The tires have always come with a "road hazard" coverage, including any patching or replacement of valves.

RE patching -- Through DiscountTire, their patching jobs have always been patches and not plugs. And they warrant them for for the full life of the tire on that car.

Have once had patches done at a different shop, not DiscountTire. And that patch failed within two years (slow leak). At least so far, over a ~dozen patches on several sets of tires I've purchased through DiscountTire, I have yet to see one of their patching jobs leak further. Those seem to be quite durable. And they're guaranteed to not leak, else they'll replace the tire. Haven't needed to test them on this, as none of the patches have failed. But, so far so good.
The plugs look silly. 😄 They have been holding up. Actually, the Bridgestone set was good at holding air despite the nails. They are not runflats though. Somehow the punctures didn't leave me stranded. Having let folks cut in and out in front of me and making room for others, I figured I have accumulated a lot of good road karma.

I considered going with one of the chains for the road hazard coverage, mainly America's Tire, Firestone, Big O Tires, and Pep Boys in my area. They either didn't have my size, or the price was twice as much. Goodyear Assurance Finnesse and Uniroyal TigerPaw were close, around $160/each.

My second set on the car was Uniroyal, I ran them until the ride became extremely harsh. The Bridgestone Turanza LS100 was all right. They look bad right now but the ride wasn't as harsh as the Uniroyal at the end-of-life.
 
I drove about 40K KM on a plugged tire. It never leaked.

With the cracking seen on your tires and how close they are to the wear bars, I would be looking to replace them very soon.

You can play around with different tire sizes, etc. 225/45R18 - much more common size, will fit fine, or consider switching to 16's or 17's.

Last week when the mobile mechanic replaced the rear brake pads, he recommended replacing the tires right away. I have felt more vibrations in recent weeks but wasn't sure.

For my next set (in two years), I hope to be ready for a different size. I don't know enough about AWD yet to stray. 😅
 
Patch with the plug is the proper and best way to go. Cracking indicates dry rot, get rid of them. Also, when you buy a "new" set of tires check the date code. Anything older than 7 years is a no-go.
Thank you! The new set is 2026. I don't think I'd go for online tire deals again. There's a reason why they are cheaper.
 
Your'e not going to replace those tires.. for another two years? Those need to be replaced, like very soon. If you regularly drive in the wet at higher speeds, like right away.
 
Your'e not going to replace those tires.. for another two years? Those need to be replaced, like very soon. If you regularly drive in the wet at higher speeds, like right away.

Sorry I wasn't clear, the picture were taken of the worn tires AFTER they came off. I keep them for other uses. The new set OEM size was mounted yesterday. 😅
 
OK, I was like. What!? lol
So the chain of events went like this:

You told me to replace the belt
Mobile mechanic replaced belts
MM replaced rear pads
MM recommended new tires
Shop plugged puncture on Monday
Ordered a new set on Wednesday
Shop mounted new set on Thursday

💪I think I am all caught up.
 
Is there any way to avoid nails on the road? Like a super magnet mounted on the bottom of the front bumper or something, to pick them up before they stab the tires...
 
If I was buying brand new tires, I would expect the date code to show they were manufactured within the past year.
Also… seems like I read somewhere that once you get a tire repaired with patch/plug, the tire loses its full speed rating.
 
If I was buying brand new tires, I would expect the date code to show they were manufactured within the past year.
Also… seems like I read somewhere that once you get a tire repaired with patch/plug, the tire loses its full speed rating.
A few years ago I was looking for new snow tires and the garage I go to for tires only said they had a good deal on a set of tires they had in the back. The date code showed they were manufactured 6 years prior, yeah they were "new" still having the original manufacturers stickers on but too old at the same time. The salesman said they were going to scrap them out after I showed him the date code.
 
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