Problems

[Taishinto]

I'm having a few various problems-maybe they're related, but I'm trying to figure them out any help is greatly appreciated.

1. Rattle/Chatter noise when accelerator is depressed-thinking it's possibly the well known "turkey" noise
which brings me to the next issue
2. I've got a Type RS Blowoff Valve and not sure if I'm adjusting it correctly-I had the adjustment screw pretty much all the way out, but the valve wouldn't open much at all when i pushed on the throttle cable.

3. I'm getting a bad stumble and a few different random codes ranging from O2 sensor inactivity (B1S1) and Random misfires- this seems to primarily occur after cruising the highway speeds-runs just fine then but after I get home and let it idle down it starts acting up-seems like the EGR issue described in the TSB's, but my EGR isn't even plugged in because I have a different manifold on and the EGR isn't currently plumbed into anything so I just unplugged it for the time being so it doesn't draw in outside air.

 

[hornsfan10609]

1. You hear turkey when you lift the throttle or depress the clutch to shift, not while accelerating.
2. The car won't build much boost in neutral, only in gear, so the BOV probably won't open much unless you go WOT.
3. What are the CEL codes? I would start with new NGK ZFR6F-11 plugs gapped to .028-.032".

 

[Taishinto]

1. So prolly not the turkey noise then. Occasionally right at start up during idle but then goes away-otherwise like I said when I push on the accelerator I hear it, but if I level off my speed it goes away until I accelerate again.

2. So what is the best way to adjust the BOV and tell where it's set to?

3. I put new plugs and wires on less than a year ago. The codes were for Random Misfires, Misfire Cylinder 1, Misfire Cylinder 4, O2 Sensor Inoperative B1S1. Not all at the same time though usually just the O2 and Random Misfire. Occasionally it'll be specific to Cylinder 1-only seen if for Cylinder 4 once and pretty sure that was because the injector wasn't clipped down all the way for whatever reason. The rest of them all seem in place though and if I clear the codes everything is all good again for a good while.

 

[Taishinto]

Anyone have any ideas yet? Still wondering about the noise, BOV adjustment procedure and rough idling-the last few codes were for my O2 sensor B1S1 inactivity and B1S1 low signal.

 

[isbre]

Is the sound almost like coins moving arond in the cylinder, if so it might be pinging, more commonly called predetonation which can lead to bye bye rods and/or pistons, even the engine block. Do you take your chance on less than 91 octane (AKI)?? (or have your car been standing unused for a while)

The BOV should release excess air when the air pressure is higher than what is being fed to it through the vaccum lines, even if you don't get any boost in neutral you should go be able to adjust it. It should open when you let of the throttle (during downrevs) and close before it hit idle. There are a lot of youtube videos and writeups on how to do it if you just do an internet search.
Is your MAF reallocated to after the BOV? Because if not the BOV will let air out without the ECU knowing making it think there is more air than it actually is leading to a way rich mixture that causes hesitation.

I assume that you already have tried to replace the primary O2 sensor and checked the wires and plug leading to it already, right?