JL TR570-CXi or Alpine SPR-574A fronts 5x7

ddogg777

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2002 Yellow P5
For those who have seen these in action, which did you like better? I am torn between them and can't find a place that has them both.
 
jl


www.jlaudio.com

Click on "See the 2003 Pontiac Vibe GT"

With a modest product offering, the JL Audio Vibes sound quality far exceeded anything on the show floor.
Rob Hephner, Car Sound & Performance Magazine


They only used TR speakers, JL W0 subs and the e series amps.
 
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WAIT!! If you are going to run little power go with the JL TR's. If yuo are running decent power go with the Type R's. the type R's will give you more mid bass and mid range. If you use some sound deadening it will perform even better. If you are going to compare the type R's to JL then it would be more like the XR's. I had the tyop r in my car before they were awsome but I'm a JL guy so I went with all JL. I manage a shop that sells both so there is a pretty goo comparision there.
 
The only power that I will be running is from the HU, possibly the Alpine 7893 with V-drive.
 
If it was me I'd listen to them both and decide. I'd also listen to Eclipse and Boston Acoustics. Those are my top 4 choices for coaxes at the moment: JL, Alpine, Eclipse, and BA.
 
For the front, you should also consider component speakers. You get much better sound than coaxials.

But you're not going to get anything out of your new speakers if you run it off the stock HU. It will be better with an aftermarket HU, but the best is to drive them with an amp.
 
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True...but if he isn't changing out the headunit and doesn't want to amp them up, then he won't hear any improvement. He'll probably hear degradation, unfortunately!
 
servoeyes said:
True...but if he isn't changing out the headunit and doesn't want to amp them up, then he won't hear any improvement. He'll probably hear degradation, unfortunately!

LOL. That's the "problem" with car audio. You upgrade one component, which requires and upgrade of another component to maximize the performance gain.

Just a never-ending cycle that kills your wallet :)
 
Hey guys, you're not reading, I said I would be powering it with just a HU, probably the Alpine 7893 with V-drive. I NEVER SAID STOCK UNIT.
 
ddogg777 said:
Hey guys, you're not reading, I said I would be powering it with just a HU, probably the Alpine 7893 with V-drive. I NEVER SAID STOCK UNIT.

Oh, my bad. But bear in mind that while aftermarkets HUs provide more power than the stock HU, it's still much weaker compared to an amp.
 
Sorry...there's som many threads about what people are doing I get mixed up sometimes. The V-drive unit still isn't really powerful enough for a good set of components. It'll get you what, like 33W RMS? I would say you need at least 40-50W RMS for comps. Just stick with some really nice Coaxes, methinks. Any of the four brands I listed make great products. Hell...you might even like something cheaper. But it's all up to your hearing, so just get what you think is best!
 
servoeyes said:
Just stick with some really nice Coaxes, methinks. Any of the four brands I listed make great products. Hell...you might even like something cheaper. But it's all up to your hearing, so just get what you think is best!

Yeah, I was looking at specs on comps and they do require more juice...I don't blare my music so I think a good HU with the JL TR570s will be just right.
 
Hey guy's don't get me wrong but just because you need to run more power to the components versus the coaxials doesn't mean he is going to loose sound quality. I put many V drive alpine decks in cars and run components to them and they sound fine. You'd be suprised how much difference it makeswith the V drive. The good thing about going with componenets is that you have the ability to move the tweeter to get better imaging in the car, and in the Protege you kind of need it. Also it will give you alot better mid bass and mid range because you don't have a big hole in the cone to fit the tweeter. JL is really good about having power efficent speakers, you can run a VR component set of the V drive deck and have enough power to do so. Also if you are going to run a sub then you won't need the mid to produce the lower HZ so you can cross it over higher and you won't be draining power from the deck to produce the lower HZ
 
Alot of speakers get blown by not enough power instead of to much power. 33Wrms is not much. If you are trying to get the volume lound in the car you will crank the system and teh signal will get clipped and the distortion if not good for the speakers. The clipped signal will keep the speaker out and it will not cool. Causing the glue to come apart and teh speaker to blow. Or the lead could coem off the voice coil. If you only have 33Wrms then you should get a speaker that reccomneds close to that watt rating.

For example my sub says 400W, so I use 500 JL watts. If you want performance buy performance. Dont waste your money on something that dont make you happy. Buy what you like. Be happy with it and only buy it once. The problem wiht getting the cheap stuff is that you will not liek it then go and buy what you really liked. I have found that out the hard way. Listen to stuff see what you like. Spend some money even if you have to wait and get what you like.

I would reccomend getting some components for the front and an amp. If you like JL stuff the JL componetns are nice. The XR anyways. Get the 6.5's and A amp that will power them. I think the alpines suck. There flag ship stuff is okay but way over priced and the high suck bad. Silk tweet.. comon. JL XR's are way better.

good luck.. sorry I coudl not help much. Just not sure how much work you want to do and how much you want to spend
 
i'm running the JL-XR650CSi 6.5" components up front with an Alpine MRV-T420 2 channel amp. so it's running about 96W RMS per channel to them. rated is about 75W per channel, but on the manufacturer's birth card, they tested and certified it at ~96W+ RMS per channel.

anyways, very clean sounding with very distinct highs and enough midbass. running a 12" Type-S sub and a monoblock Alpine amp for my lows. my DVDs never sounded better... :)
 
IF you are not amping then the JL VRs are a great way to go. I personaly like them better then anything we carry other then the boston Z's
 
I love the Boston Zs...best car speaker ever, in my opinion (just wish they didn't cost so damn much!)

I liked the JL VRs when I auditioned them in someone's car (1stMP3) but on the sound board the just seemed to be missing the cleaner highs like I wanted. The XRs were too harsh for me, too...

I'd like to hear how my speakers would sound if they were installed better...I kinda slapped 'em in there and haven't gotten around to fixing it. It'd be nice to have some help getting it right though (:cough::cough: send advice via PM!)

Anywho...as we've said plenty of times, we all have extremely different tastes, so get what you like and enjoy it! :D
 
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