The objective is to use my new fog light as DRL and use my HID only when I turn my light switch ON (at night). I took pictures all along the project's progress to show you.
It starts with the drilling of the black plastic cover that replaces the true FOGS light when you don't have them. There are 33 holes drilled with a bit of 4.87mm (for 5mm LEDs).
Then I had to make an electronic board in order to neatly connect the LEDs together. I use the Eagle software to design the circuit and I made the board in my basement using a technique called ''toner transfer'' (well documented on the internet).
The PCB was square at the start but I cutted it to the shape of the plastic cover that I have now painted chrome. Here is the final result of the printed circuit board.
Once the chrome paint is dry, you can install the LEDs (20mA and 3.2V ultrabright LEDs). The LEDs are 5mm in diameter and the holes, as I mentioned earlier, are 4.87mm. They fit tightly so they won't fall off. Note the plexiglass lens that I have bent to the shape of the plastic cover with a heat gun (gun to strip paint).
Here is the front view of the LEDs with chrome.
Installing the PCB on the back of the plastic cover. The first time, it took me 20 minutes to align the 66 pins of the LEDs in the 66 holes in the PCB at the same time.
Once the LEDs pins cut and welded.
I glued the plexiglass with a clear epoxy glue.
I designed a power supply with Eagle + PCB. There is a switch that allows me to put ON or OFF the LEDs by activating or neutralizing the power supply. I intend to install the switch inside the car (where the fog switch are normally installed).
The power supply installed in the car.
The red wire is the one who feeds my power supply. It is located just after the main relay. So, my LEDs are lit just when my ignition key is turned.
Result of the car. Just imagine the bumper paint wasn't peeling.
Finally, a video at night :
Hoping everything will post as expected, feel free to post comment, question and new idea. Thank you.
It starts with the drilling of the black plastic cover that replaces the true FOGS light when you don't have them. There are 33 holes drilled with a bit of 4.87mm (for 5mm LEDs).
Then I had to make an electronic board in order to neatly connect the LEDs together. I use the Eagle software to design the circuit and I made the board in my basement using a technique called ''toner transfer'' (well documented on the internet).
The PCB was square at the start but I cutted it to the shape of the plastic cover that I have now painted chrome. Here is the final result of the printed circuit board.
Once the chrome paint is dry, you can install the LEDs (20mA and 3.2V ultrabright LEDs). The LEDs are 5mm in diameter and the holes, as I mentioned earlier, are 4.87mm. They fit tightly so they won't fall off. Note the plexiglass lens that I have bent to the shape of the plastic cover with a heat gun (gun to strip paint).
Here is the front view of the LEDs with chrome.
Installing the PCB on the back of the plastic cover. The first time, it took me 20 minutes to align the 66 pins of the LEDs in the 66 holes in the PCB at the same time.
Once the LEDs pins cut and welded.
I glued the plexiglass with a clear epoxy glue.
I designed a power supply with Eagle + PCB. There is a switch that allows me to put ON or OFF the LEDs by activating or neutralizing the power supply. I intend to install the switch inside the car (where the fog switch are normally installed).
The power supply installed in the car.
The red wire is the one who feeds my power supply. It is located just after the main relay. So, my LEDs are lit just when my ignition key is turned.
Result of the car. Just imagine the bumper paint wasn't peeling.
Finally, a video at night :
Hoping everything will post as expected, feel free to post comment, question and new idea. Thank you.
