Fun...damental flaw in this half ass'd design

[youngblud]

I rerouted my wastegate to the hot pipe via the turbo quick tab. So right now I can still see my boost peaks about the same as routing to the IM (~6psi ish), however it seems like I lose boost much faster. The boost would hold for a few seconds longer before, but now just drops out immediately.

I plan on rerouting the wastegate to the cold pipe and see if anything changes.

 

[jdwk]

So mazdaspeedp sold me his cold pipe, but apparently dragged it behind a car and then left it in a very damp place for a long time as it is scratched to hell and simply covered in rust. He also glued some kind of rubber band to it.

Since he refused to take it back, I now have to get it sand blasted and powder coated again. He also sent two random couplers, one of which was obviously cut by hand. And he sent none of the four required hose clamps.

In short, never deal with this guy. Obviously, my bad for not asking for pictures, but I've bought and sold tons of parts, and this is the first bad experience I've ever had.

It actually upsets me more that someone would treat a $180 performance part like this than being outright screwed.

I asked for $35 to help cover some of the cost of refurbishing it and buying new hoses and clamps, but of course, he has refused. He also refused to refund any money if I returned it, so I guess all I can do is warn others.

http://imgur.com/a/YGMGG

I just now decided to look and see if he had posted it on the for sale forum previously and he had. I should have searched beforehand, but not sure it would have made a difference as his picture hardly tells the whole story.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=184584&d=1306954757

Anyway, I'll try to find a powdercoater in town tomorrow, but it'll probably be a week or two before I get it on my car to test this theory of mine out.

 

[Spiced MSP]

wow, that really sucks.People like that should be permanently banned from forums. But it's not surprising. The guy that sold you that pipe is also the same guy that severely bashed another forum member for selling his MSP with a "broken" BOV that wasn't broken. It just needed to be tightened on the pipe and adjusted for proper venting and a FMIC that didn't fit or something like that but it did fit and worked perfectly but could have had a few minor adjustments for the core to sit a little higher behind the bumper. Then, had the nerve to call the guy a douchebag but yet, he sells you a part in crappy condition and refuses to cooperate to fix this. I think the namecalling fits him more.

 

[StealthWyvern]

Eh its a used pipe... Id be more pissed out the couplers not fitting ect ect... That crap you obviously removed so its not that big of a deal adn nothing a spray can couldnt fix in the look departments. Now if he said it was like new thats another story but without knowing the full details. I just say put a little elbow grease into it and call it a day. You can look at it liek this new couplers and t-bolt clamps and you wont have to worry about the couplers beign torn or anything..

 

[jdwk]

It's a lot more than a little elbow grease to do it right. It's at least a lot of sanding. And painting it properly takes a lot of materials and prep work, not to mention a good place to do it.

Yeah you can hit it with some 50 grit for maybe 30 minutes and take off most of the rust. And if isn't windy, throw some newspaper down outside, and use a can of high temp Krylon, wait an hour or two, flip it and hit it again, and it would look a lot better, but far from perfect. However, sand paper, paint, and most importantly, my time is not free. It's also 115 degrees outside and even warmer in the garage, so that makes a little elbow grease seem like a lot.

The cheapest I found to sand blast and powder coat it was $65, it should be done by Friday. I think I can cut the one coupler down, but I don't own anything that can cut it smoothly and evenly. Might be easier to buy a new one.

Like I said, I am more upset that someone would treat an expensive part like this. It took some serious carelessness and neglect to accumulate the amount of scratches and rust this thing had.

 

[yudkib]

rotary tool with wire brush attachment, soap, water, acetone, and coarse steel wool would go a long way and a lot easier than sandpaper. 65 is a little steep but not outrageous.you can probably find 45 or 50 if you're willing to look.

 

[jeffmsp]

if you are not smart enough to ask for a pic then what can we say. simple common sense. its the internet.

either way 10 mins with some sand paper and a can of spray paint and its fine.

unless the seller was misleading by saying it was all mint I think we should put a seller beware thing next to your name otherwise you will just keep complaining about buying parts you didnt even look at and then slandering members for your own genius

either way in the time it took you to write the post you could have sanded and painted the pipe.

I sure as hell wouldnt give ya any money back but thats just me. (and probably anyone else you buy stuff from without looking at)

but dont let this discourage you from modding. just learn from this experience.

fyi if you are thinking of getting the hard cold pipe im yet to see a dyno of a hard cold pipe making any power increase at all. back in the day BEGI dyno proved it back when they were selling their FMIC kit that used the stock cold pipe and made a solid cold pipe an option for those that want the looks. maybe on a built motor with serious boost it would be worth it, but I just ended up selling mine as it made no power difference for me. so if you are gonna get one it will be for cosmetic reasons as the IAT after the IC is nowhere near the IAT pre IC so the pipe doesnt expand as much as the hot pipe under boost so there really arent any gains until you get into higher boost levels (IE built motor etc).

 

[jdwk]

Well, this thread kind of went off the deep end back in the summer, but I did finally try out the experiment this weekend. My theory turned out to be spot on. With the WGA connected with only 4" of vacuum hose right off the hot pipe to turbo coupler, the surge felt when abruptly lifting the throttle is gone. In fact, it's eerily smooth. The turkey is not killed, but it is definitely more subdued. It's probably a little less peak boost than from the manifold or cold side of the IC, but I'll log exactly when I get the Megasquirt back in the car and compare to my old AEM logs. I also need to buy some silicon hoses, the stock rubber crap is all pretty much toast. The stock T coupler was so brittle it snapped in half, so I'll need a new one of those if I want to back to stock.

 

[jdwk]

After a couple weeks of driving, I have to say, damn, I should have done this when I first bought the car, but I definitely didn't have anywhere near the knowledge I have now 6 years ago.

The car is 100x better to drive. I can now go full throttle in second gear into my favorite turn home from work and lift my foot to hit the brake without the car bucking. It's simply smoother to drive everywhere. I still haven't had a chance to data log peak boost since I've had the MS out of the car to resolder for the boost controller and temperature sensor sharing, but it feels marginal. I might have lost 1psi at most.

I now want to upgrade the BPV and get rid of the turkey altogether. I will miss him greatly as I loved to make pedestrians and other drivers flip out, and tunnels and parking garages were so much fun.

I also bought a bunch of silicone hoses, and I have a hard cold pipe on its way. So I will move the boost source to the cold pipe to get my 1psi or so back, and weld on a flange for a BOV, and an IAT bung for the megasquirt. Since the megasquirt tunes with MAP, I can just vent to atmosphere without wasted fuel or backfires.

 

[HKPRO5]

could you get pics of how you did it?

 

[jdwk]

So I had to get a hot pipe as I originally posted. I then purchased a "Turbo Quick Tap Fitting for Boost Source" from FRSport.com.

I then simply removed the T adapter from the vacuum line going from the manifold to both the BPV and the WGA, and put it directly on the BPV. I then used the hose from the WGA and connected it to the tap fitting which I installed into the coupler between the hot pipe and the turbo.

I had to pull the hot pipe off the turbo to get a good picture of it.