DEI VIPER 550ESP Alarm and Door Locks

The last time I read about the 42 volt ssytem it was under developemnt simply becuase 12 volts justcan't handle all the needs anymore of the car. Even though they group wire functions to save weight they'll end up having to beef up the guages of some wire to allow for the extra amperage. So along comes 42 volts.
I agree Remote starts and alarms are the main reason I hate installing ina shop.
 
zmzmp5

HEY! :(

I hooked up the relay exactly how you worded it. The good news is that when I click the LOCK button on the remote, I hear and feel the relay click. The bad news is when using the 1.5K 5% resistor (tried more than 1 just in case of defect at a time and backwards/forwards in polarity one end or the other) you do not hear the door mechanism make noise. I then took the resistor out of the equation and hooked up Relay 30 to the lt/green/red wire and when hitting the LOCK button on the remote, I hear the relay AND what appears to be all the doors. However, the doors do not lock! Furthermore, if I lock the doors by pressing the door lock button on the drivers door, and then hit the LOCK button on the remote, I hear the relay and all the doors "UNLOCK". My UNLOCK (blue wire/alarm direct to lt/green/red/car) works just fine from the remote!

So, I left it direct for now until we come up with another solution. I think we are half way there (maybe farther than that). Can anyone else shed some light on the situation?

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!

Please advise!

- Brian :(
 
Last edited:
Re: zmzmp5

zmzmp5 said:
HEY! :(

I hooked up the relay exactly how you worded it. The good news is that when I click the LOCK button on the remote, I hear and feel the relay click. The bad news is when using the 1.5K 5% resistor (tried more than 1 just in case of defect at a time and backwards/forwards in polarity one end or the other) you do not hear the door mechanism make noise. I then took the resistor out of the equation and hooked up Relay 30 to the lt/green/red wire and when hitting the LOCK button on the remote, I hear the relay AND what appears to be all the doors. However, the doors do not lock! Furthermore, if I lock the doors by pressing the door lock button on the drivers door, and then hit the LOCK button on the remote, I hear the relay and all the doors "UNLOCK". My UNLOCK (blue wire/alarm direct to lt/green/red/car) works just fine from the remote!

So, I left it direct for now until we come up with another solution. I think we are half way there (maybe farther than that). Can anyone else shed some light on the situation?

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!

Please advise!

- Brian :(

Damn dude, I am sorry, I was not even thinking!!! If you are using the wires directly out of the brain for the unlock and the one coming out of the relay for the lock wire, this is probably the problem. Lemme explain...when the alarm brain puts out a negative lock pulse on the green wire, it simultaneously puts out a positive pulse on the blue wire. I believe that this postive pulse may be confusing the factory lock control brain. You can try this to make sure. Disconnect the blue wire from the lt. green/red wire and reconnect the relay set-up that I described earlier. Try it!! Obviously, the unlock will not work, but the lock should now work if I am right. If it does work, then you can just wire up the blue output wire to a relay just like the green one, but without the resistor in line with the output of the relay. If you need more help tonight, I will be online for a few more hours (LOL) while the game is still on. I am on MSN instant messenger and my id is vfrgriff@hotmail.com and you can hit me up for info.

peace
Griff
 
Oh hey, did you get a 451M module with that alarm? That would be the easiest thing to use to wire up your locks using relays for both. If you did not, it is no big deal, it just makes it neater in the long run if you have it. It is a dual relay pack that plugs directly into the DEI alarm brain. Just an FYI.

peace
Griff
 
>>
Damn dude, I am sorry, I was not even thinking!!! If you are using the wires directly out of the brain for the unlock and the one coming out of the relay for the lock wire, this is probably the problem. Lemme explain...when the alarm brain puts out a negative lock pulse on the green wire, it simultaneously puts out a positive pulse on the blue wire. I believe that this postive pulse may be confusing the factory lock control brain. You can try this to make sure. Disconnect the blue wire from the lt. green/red wire and reconnect the relay set-up that I described earlier. Try it!! Obviously, the unlock will not work, but the lock should now work if I am right. If it does work, then you can just wire up the blue output wire to a relay just like the green one, but without the resistor in line with the output of the relay. If you need more help tonight, I will be online for a few more hours (LOL) while the game is still on. I am on MSN instant messenger and my id is vfrgriff@hotmail.com and you can hit me up for info.
>>

Thanks for the quick response.

Here is the deal: If I connect the blue wire directly to the lt/grn/red it unlocks no problem. If I connect the green wire directly to the lt/grn/red it UNLOCKS (should lock). If I connect the green wire to the relay (no resistor here) and to the lt/grn/red wire it UNLOCKS (should lock). If I put a resistor in, there is not enough juice to do s*** to the locks. Again, it is a 1.5K 5% Radio Shack jobby. In either case with the green wire, direct or relay without the resistor AND with the blue wire disconnected it locks fine. Though unlock does not work. Dude, this is what I originally dealth with early on.

If I do another relay for the blue wouldn't that be the same as I already have (providing a negative pulse) via Relay versus the 200ma output of the Alarm?

PLEASE HELP!

- Brian

BTW - Thanks again!
 
Try taking a wire grounded with the resistor in line and pulse the lt/green wire. If this works to lock the doors then the realy will also work. The problem is the original described setup will send a 1.5K ohm negative pulse and a 12 volt positive pulse at the same time.

I think it should be like this.

resistor%20setup%20for%20lock%20unlock.jpg


But I'm not the expert here.
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
Try taking a wire grounded with the resistor in line and pulse the lt/green wire. If this works to lock the doors then the realy will also work. The problem is the original described setup will send a 1.5K ohm negative pulse and a 12 volt positive pulse at the same time.

I think it should be like this.

resistor%20setup%20for%20lock%20unlock.jpg


But I'm not the expert here.

Yea, this is cool, this is the way it should be. We got on MSN Instant Messenger and talked it out, but this is a great visual that describes exactly what I meant. I wish I would have seen the possibility for both pulses when I first explained it, but hey, I am used to having my hands on the product :p

peace
Griff
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
Which pin is 87 and which is 87 a? I always get that mixed up.

87a is the one that is in the center and 87 is on the opposite side of 30. I always remember 87a ...."a" is for a**hole which is in the center, LOL. I know it is stupid, but it helped me remember for quite some time.

peace
Griff
 
Yah! It works! It was the two relay deal just as Griff had listed! My alarm is in, tidied up and working wonderful.

As a quick question, what is the best way to create an "on-off-on, repetative pulse" for a negative output? I want to tie this to my siren as my piezo and strobe is but need to convert +12V to a negative input and instead of it being a steady pulse, it needs to go on/off (like a capacitor). Would a turn-signal relay work for this? Gosh, I think I did it like that 8 years ago. It's just been a while.

Let me know.

- Brian
 
zmzmp5 said:
Yah! It works! It was the two relay deal just as Griff had listed! My alarm is in, tidied up and working wonderful.

As a quick question, what is the best way to create an "on-off-on, repetative pulse" for a negative output? I want to tie this to my siren as my piezo and strobe is but need to convert +12V to a negative input and instead of it being a steady pulse, it needs to go on/off (like a capacitor). Would a turn-signal relay work for this? Gosh, I think I did it like that 8 years ago. It's just been a while.

Let me know.

- Brian

Hey Brian, glad you got it all working!!

As far as an answer to your "on-off-on" question, you have already answered it yourself. Yes a turn signal "flasher" will work for that. I have used it in the past to pulse air horns while the alarm was going off, but they would not sound when the alarm arms and disarms :) I am not 100% sure what your trying to do though??? Are you trying to make the siren that came with the alarm go "on-off-on" while the alarm is going off?? I believe your alarm my have an option to pulse the output of the siren like you were going to hook it up to the vehicles horn. Hell, it may automatically switch it to a negative pulse too, but I am not sure. Check your alarm manual and see what it has to say in the options section. Lemme know if you need anymore assistance.

peace
Griff
 
Air horns are good but why stop there. My buddy had 2 mechanical air rade sirens. Those things rocked.
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
Air horns are good but why stop there. My buddy had 2 mechanical air rade sirens. Those things rocked.

Haha, that would be cool, but I would hate to make people think it was the start of WWIII or that there was a tornado coming, LOL. Toys are so cool!!

peace
Griff
 
he is insane. he has 2 mechanicals, 1 set of air horns, a DEI siren, An alpine siren and a clifford siren.
 
Guys!

Hey, I put a new relay in-line/parallel of the alarm output lead to the horn to power my internal piezo and internal strobe. In addition I then wired up a turn-signal relay to a positive to negative output relay to the horn. It is friggin kick ass. I lock the door, the horn and the siren beep, I unlock they both beep-beep and when the alarm goes off, the horn pulsates very nicely. Friggin louder than s***! Exactly what I wanted. Thanks for all the help! Now, just gotta find the next project. ;)

- Brian

P.S. 8 relays + 1 turn signal relay
 
Haha, yea relays are cool. One of the neat things that I have done in the past...I had a customer that wanted to operate an after market cd deck and his factory tape deck using the same four speakers for both. I used 2 4PDT relays and a SPDT relay. When you turned one radio on, it would send the outputs of that radio to the speakers, when you turned the other one on, it would cut the power to the top one and route the output to the speakers. Both radios could not be on at the same time and the outputs of the radios where totally isolated from each other. It was a mid 90's T-Bird, I put the aftermarket dc deck in the factory location and moved the factory tape deck to the location that held the factory pocket in front of the shifter. I really think it was kind of a waste of effort, he should have just bought a tape deck and changer, but he was very happy :rolleyes:

peace
Griff
 
Back