DEI VIPER 550ESP Alarm and Door Locks

[www.03msp.com]

All:

I need HELP! I have installed my DEI Viper 550ESP alarm and have most everything working BUT the door locks.

Actually, the UNLOCK works, but the LOCK does not. I had done the following steps:

Step 1. Alarm Blue (Unlock) to LT GREEN/RED CAR and 87A Relay
Step 2. Alarm Green + 1.5K Resistor to 85 Relay
Step 3. Relay 86 (Fused) to BLACK CAR (+12V)
Step 4. Relay 30 to LT GREEN/RED CAR

What did I do wrong OR what am I missing?

Please advise ASAP!

Thanks.

- Brian
heagneybrian@attbi.com:wtf:

 

[www.03msp.com]

I still need help. Please help.

 

[1sty]

Where did you get the wire colors?
Can you attach a wire to power then pulse that to the lock wire and get it to work?

I'll try to get the dei color chart tomarrow for the 2003 Protege5

 

[www.03msp.com]

Hi.

I have the appropriate wire chart from DEI. I have my entire system, including remote start working EXCEPT for the door locks. I understand it is a single system, and I only am able to unlock the doors.

So, it would be helpful to get a run by run description of what needs to be connected where explicitly starting with the blue and green wires from the brain to what and where.

BTW - I have the factor keyless entry still installed.

- Brian

 

[www.03msp.com]

Unlock works, lock does not. I have the lock going through a relay per DEI instructions + a 1.5K resistor. on the "30" side.

Please help!

 

[1sty]

I check with the pros I know in this area.
I haven't heard of needing the relay yet though. I havent installe din the newer Mazdas though.
Is the relay to invert polarity?
Have you metered the resistor to ensure its 1.5K.
Would disconnecting the factory keyless work? its under the rear deck cover in the sedan don't know about the wagon though.

I'll talk to our installers tuesday. Also try calling DEi tomarrow

 

[1sty]

Step 1. Alarm Blue (Unlock) to LT GREEN/RED CAR and 87A Relay
Step 2. Alarm Green + 1.5K Resistor to 85 Relay
Step 3. Relay 86 (Fused) to BLACK CAR (+12V)
Step 4. Relay 30 to LT GREEN/RED CAR

I would't think this setup would do anything.

the negative pulse of the unlock power triggers the relay, may not trigger at all with the resistor in line with the 85 pin.

Even if it triggers the signal from the unlock wire which I would think is doing anything while the lock button is pressed is being sent to the same wire its already connected to.

I have a feeling you have a typo here.
Can you email or fax me the cut sheat from DEI?

 

[ZoomZoom]

Here is how ya do it....

Ok, you have the blue and green wires....

The blue wire will go directly to the lt. green/red wire for you unlock control.

The green wire will go to terminal 85 on a relay, terminal 86 of that same relay will go to +12v, terminal 87 will go to ground and terminal 30 will go to one end of the 1.5K ohm resistor and the other end of the resistor will go to the lt. green/red wire to control the lock action. 87A on the relay should not be used!! The resistor does not have to be exactly 1.5K ohms, but it has to be within 5-10 % of that value, the closer the better.

This is a pretty easy set-up to do. You don't have to actually attach the resistor directly to the wire in the car, you can add wire to the end of the resistor and then connect that wire to the cars wire. You wanna make sure that you have the resistor in a place that it will not get folded and bent to the point where the wire breaks. Good luck and hit me up if you have any more Q's.

peace
Griff

P.S. I have DEI's techsoft on my computer, so I have the wiring info right here in front of me

 

[1sty]

Now that makes alot more sense. But why use a relay for a ground pulse when the DEi output wire is a negative pulse for lock?

Can you email me the sheet for the Proteges?
cwiley@viewcom.com
I want to put them up so everyone can directly access them.

 

[ZoomZoom]

Now that makes alot more sense. But why use a relay for a ground pulse when the DEi output wire is a negative pulse for lock?

Can you email me the sheet for the Proteges?
cwiley@viewcom.com
I want to put them up so everyone can directly access them.

Yes, DEI uses a ground pulse, but it is a low current pulse (unless the alarm has the relays built in, i.e. there are 5 wires for the doorlocks on the brain) so that running that low current pulse through a relay may not provide enough current flow to work the circuit. Using the relay just assures that the pulse will be strong enough and there is less likely to be a failure of the lock out put in the future.

As far as emailing you the sheet, for some reason, I cannot copy it using the 'ol right click method on the mouse. I would have to print it out then scan it in and well, my scanner does not work either.....any ideas???

peace
Griff

 

[www.03msp.com]

Thanks a lot! I will try this ASAP and let you know if it works! Again, thanks! BTW - DEI's information in their install manual was vague so I tried to work with it. Oh well. Again, thanks.

- Brian

 

[ZoomZoom]

Thanks a lot! I will try this ASAP and let you know if it works! Again, thanks! BTW - DEI's information in their install manual was vague so I tried to work with it. Oh well. Again, thanks.

- Brian

Dude, it's all good. I give credit to those that have never done it before and get as far as you did without totally butchering up their car. Hell, I have seen "seasoned" installers that still cannot do it neatly. DEI's info is geared towards the professional, they really do not intend for their products to be DIY, although this year they are marketing a few in that manner. At any rate, I hope it all works out.

peace
Griff

 

[1sty]

Where did you get the software?

Why does the 1.5K resistor needed, becuase its a single wire doorlock?

 

[ZoomZoom]

Where did you get the software?

Why does the 1.5K resistor needed, becuase its a single wire doorlock?

I downloaded the software from DEI's website. At the time, I had a password that would allow me to access the downloads. I am not sure that you still need it, but I doubt it is anygood anymore because it was a few years ago.

As far as the resistor goes, yes because the door lock/unlock feature sharing the same wire the brain in the car that controls the luck/unlock function needs to see varying levels of voltage/ground in order to determine what function you want to happen. This multiplexing feature is becoming very prominant in todays cars because they are trying to save weight by using less wiring in the car. New Chrysler's are becoming quite a pain in the arse, some of them require resistors for lights, locks, factory alarm arm/disarm, etc... Ok, well that is enough rambling for now.

peace
Griff

 

[1sty]

Doesn't some ford models actualy need 1 relay per door now also?
Some of these things are just getting to comple to be any fun. The alrm remote starters already have a 5 relay pack. Then add one for anti grind another for door locks and who knows what the hell else. In 3 years will have 27 relays just to start the damn things.

 

[sttl013]

Why does the 1.5K resistor needed, becuase its a single wire doorlock?

Yup. That wire gets grounded, it unlocks. That wire gets grounded through a 1.5K resistor, it locks. (or vice versa)

It's known as "multiplexing", and is more and more popular. Saves wire, which saves cost and weight.

 

[ZoomZoom]

Doesn't some ford models actualy need 1 relay per door now also?
Some of these things are just getting to comple to be any fun. The alrm remote starters already have a 5 relay pack. Then add one for anti grind another for door locks and who knows what the hell else. In 3 years will have 27 relays just to start the damn things.

I believe the fords lock circuits that your referring to is a "5 wire" or "reversing polarity" circuit. You need a pair of relays, one to operate the lock and one for unlock. The relays are used to reverse the polarity of the motors wires to make it work in the two different directions.

Yea, the remote starts have a relay for Ignition, 2nd Ignition, Starter, and Accessory functions. Some cars require relays for a 2nd Accy or 3rd ignition or even 2nd starter. The other big pain in the arse is the factory starter interupt feature, you know, the keys with the chips in them. I really hate this time of the year as an installer, the amount of remote starts that come in drive me crazy!!! People complaining about how much it cost for the extra parts to get around the factory security measures in their cars. Your right though, some of this is really not fun anymore, but it pays the bills

peace
Griff

 

[1sty]

Ah the magic box. Yet another mostrosity We have to hide.
Gotta love the people that get pissed when they find out how much extra another coded key from the dealer will cost. The part is when it costs them almost as much to put in the remote starter as it did the factory alarm option just becuase you have to get around the damn thing.

 

[ZoomZoom]

Doesn't some ford models actualy need 1 relay per door now also?
Some of these things are just getting to comple to be any fun. The alrm remote starters already have a 5 relay pack. Then add one for anti grind another for door locks and who knows what the hell else. In 3 years will have 27 relays just to start the damn things.

Oh yea, and actually in 3-5 years, you will see things start moving towards a 42 volt electrical system. From what I have read, with this system, we should start seeing the use of a universal serial bus (somewhat like a USB I guess) that will allow cars the share upgrades from one mfg to the next. I am not sure how much of this will become a reality, but I do know that the mfg's were being asked to let the aftermarket producers have an involvement in the developement of this system so assure that the cars would be able to be "modified" by their owners. I forgot, one of the reasons that they want to use a 42 volt system is so they can electronically control the valvetrain!! I am assuming no more timing belt/chains, etc.. ?!?!?!

peace
Griff

P.S. I think I need to look back into this to see how it is progressing.

 

[ZoomZoom]

Ah the magic box. Yet another mostrosity We have to hide.
Gotta love the people that get pissed when they find out how much extra another coded key from the dealer will cost. The part is when it costs them almost as much to put in the remote starter as it did the factory alarm option just becuase you have to get around the damn thing.

Yea, hehe, I love the people that want the remote start to work from their "factory" keyless remote. I always ask "why, do you want to have to walk up to the car in order to be able to start it with your remote start?" LOL I think pretty soon, the alarm mfg's will start including other "bypass" items with the system, of course, the cost of the unit is sure to go up. Ah well, what are we to do. I will admit though, it is great knowing how to do what so many people pay greatly to have done, mwahahahaha.

peace
Griff