Boost Jumping Back And Forth After CS SRI Install

[DanglyBitz]

does the cs intake have an air straightener? if not that could be the culprit since the MAF cant get a good reading. get a DH or something to log the engine while its doing this. itll help eliminate the guesswork and narrow down the possible causes

 

[Shadykilla717]

does the cs intake have an air straightener? if not that could be the culprit since the MAF cant get a good reading. get a DH or something to log the engine while its doing this. itll help eliminate the guesswork and narrow down the possible causes

But either way couldn't it be because of the sensor reading the extra air in?? And since theres no tune to compensate for the extra airflow the ecu is trying to compensate for it on its own and its not being able to??

 

[DanglyBitz]

But either way couldn't it be because of the sensor reading the extra air in?? And since theres no tune to compensate for the extra airflow the ecu is trying to compensate for it on its own and its not being able to??

that would result in running lean/rich not related to boost. honestly, unless someone has had the same issue and resolved it none of us can help since we have nothing to go on. OP datalog the event and post it up. 4 psi sways in boost is not normal .5psi...ok. could be something as simple as a loose connection....

and hitting 15psi below 3k in 6th is a good way to throw a rod.....

 

[Shadykilla717]

that would result in running lean/rich not related to boost. honestly, unless someone has had the same issue and resolved it none of us can help since we have nothing to go on. OP datalog the event and post it up. 4 psi sways in boost is not normal .5psi...ok. could be something as simple as a loose connection....

and hitting 15psi below 3k in 6th is a good way to throw a rod.....

Def. right bout not bein able to help. All we can do is throw ideas out there.. I get what your sayin. Because the extra air from the intake could make the car run lean.. It wouldn't really relate to a boost spike.. Possibly knocked a vacuum line loose when putting the intake in your saying?? I've done that before lol.. I actually pinched a pin sized hole in a line once. Drove me craaaaazyyy.. I replaced all my lines like an idiot lol.

 

[Shadykilla717]

OP.. I have an ideaaaa that might help IF you can't figure it out. I mean I dunno your money situation. Best idea couuuld be going to a tuner. Explaining your problem. Even if they don't know mazdas it's ok. You can do a dyno pull and see your hp and a/f.. You can see exactly whats happening. And usually from that tuners know the problem (if there any good). And they'll probly know if its a line or anything..

Just an idea if you get stuck ya no.. I've seen people do that a few times at this tuner shop I was at with my last car.

 

[MSMS3]

Here's another option. Restore the intake to normal temporarily. Put the stock air box and inlet pipe back on and reset the ECU. Drive it a bit. If you are still getting the boost swings, then you know you have a leak in the plumbing somewhere, either a boost tube, a vacuum line or a problem with the boost control solenoid.

I gather you are not throwing any check engine light codes.

Did you properly install your boost gauge? Was it working fine before the intake mod, or did you install it at the same time? Maybe you do not have it connected properly, or there is a leak in the line to it?

Since the SRI and TIP are your only mods, you should be able to return everything to normal and take it to the dealer and get it diagnoses and fixed under warranty if it still does the same thing.

 

[AMS38U]

i posted the other day saying the same thing i have sri turbo inlet and bov VTA.. i thought i might have had a loose hose and no go i tightented em all up and it was good for a few days mind u i didnt beat on the car at all and it did it real bad yesterday again.. so im back to the drawing board as of for now. mine is doing exactually what the 1st posters is doing its actually pretty violent... this is the funny part i had the acess tunner and it was on my car for quite some time and then i got rid of it, never had the prob i took it off and still never had the prob the the other day i was with my bro on the highway and it started to do it, and like i say u DEFF feel it in 5th and 6th gear, may b ill make a lil video for u all.. but as of now im about 2 days away from takein all my s*** off and bringing it to the dealer

 

[mr_mazda329]

I dont think the OP needs a tune after just the CS full intake. I have more mods than him and my car runs perfect with no boost surging in any gears. This is definately some sort of vac issue or maybe a sensor issue.

+1 for putting it back to stock to see if it does it anymore. Not that hard and will help in further troubleshooting.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Here's another option. Restore the intake to normal temporarily. Put the stock air box and inlet pipe back on and reset the ECU. Drive it a bit. If you are still getting the boost swings, then you know you have a leak in the plumbing somewhere, either a boost tube, a vacuum line or a problem with the boost control solenoid.

I gather you are not throwing any check engine light codes.

Did you properly install your boost gauge? Was it working fine before the intake mod, or did you install it at the same time? Maybe you do not have it connected properly, or there is a leak in the line to it?

Since the SRI and TIP are your only mods, you should be able to return everything to normal and take it to the dealer and get it diagnoses and fixed under warranty if it still does the same thing.

I have since installed a forge bpv, CS race pipe, and SU rear mm.

I know its not the guage cause i can feel the power surging with the spikes.

I vac and pressure tested all the lines and they all are good, the only thing i didnt do yet is go back to stock which i will most likley do in a day or 2. if its still doing it ill brin it to the dealer and play dumb and hope it gets fixed.

 

[DanglyBitz]

try a smoke test

 

[Blitzkrieg]

I dont think the OP needs a tune after just the CS full intake. I have more mods than him and my car runs perfect with no boost surging in any gears. This is definately some sort of vac issue or maybe a sensor issue.

+1 for putting it back to stock to see if it does it anymore. Not that hard and will help in further troubleshooting.

Your not having any issues with your mods and no tune?? Reason im asking is i have The CS downpipe on the way and was going to do the ets top mount also but everyone keeps telling me if you do the intercooler you have to tune it or the car will run like s***.

 

[DanglyBitz]

an intake with no tune is fine, with an intercooler and downpipe you will def need a tune

 

[mr_mazda329]

You will need a tune for a downpipe for sure. TMIC..not really. FMIC definately. My car does run fine with out a tune. My fuel trims are spot on. My boost behaves well. My fuel pressure is great. Now could i benefit from a tune and get moar powah...sure could.

 

[MSMS3]

I do not have a tune and I am running a CAI and a full 3 inch catless DP/RP. Smooth engine. 13.4 quarters at 107, 0-100 mph in mid 11 second range. No boost creep, a little transient and small boost spike about 2 pounds of pressure above stock and settling down into steady 15.5-16 pounds of boost.

The ECU continutes to make the adjustments needed to keep my boost maxed at stock level and steady. One step colder plugs are allowing the ECU to keep timing where it needs to be. I do, on very rare occasion, get fuel cut, (we don't have cold winters here) which I take as a good thing, since I do not want to over-ride that safety feature.

Having said this, the OP's solution to his present problem is not a tune. He is having some problem with a boost or vacuum leak. This needs to be tracked down. The best way to get to the bottom of this is for him to go back to completely stock (including the stock BPV) and see if the problem goes away. If not, take it to the dealer. If it does go away, he needs to reinstall the intake and inlet pipe only at this point and see if the problem comes back.

If his boost gauge is manual, as is mine, he may not have it hooked up properly. If there is a leak in that setup it would affect not only the reading of the gauge, but also the performance of the engine including its ability to hold boost under load.

 

[DanglyBitz]

Wait so ur running catless with no tune....so you've probably got a cel on ur dash on almost all the time. I hope you have a dh or scan tool since you will have no idea if anthings going wrong until its too late. The ecu can only compensate to a point....

 

[MSMS3]

Wait so ur running catless with no tune....so you've probably got a cel on ur dash on almost all the time. I hope you have a dh or scan tool since you will have no idea if anthings going wrong until its too late. The ecu can only compensate to a point....

I'm old school on tuning. I have an installed mechanical boost gauge. I do check AFR's and check and clear CEL codes with an professional grade OBDII scan/reader that is not a Dash Hawk. Only CEL's have been from the O2 sensor, and that has since been eliminated by the "diode fix" since the raised O2 bung and even a spark plug fouler extension did not stop the CEL's, which would come and go.

Stock tune is amazingly flexible on these cars as long as you don't try to bypass the boost cut and fuel cut safety features or raise boost above stock levels. If I decide to go in that direction, AP custom tune would be added.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

I'm old school on tuning. I have an installed mechanical boost gauge. I do check AFR's and check and clear CEL codes with an professional grade OBDII scan/reader that is not a Dash Hawk. Only CEL's have been from the O2 sensor, and that has since been eliminated by the "diode fix" since the raised O2 bung and even a spark plug fouler extension did not stop the CEL's, which would come and go.

Stock tune is amazingly flexible on these cars as long as you don't try to bypass the boost cut and fuel cut safety features or raise boost above stock levels. If I decide to go in that direction, AP custom tune would be added.

This i good to know. I going to try my luck and install the DP when it comes and see how everything turns out. I do have a WB02 coming also so i could monitor my AFR's. Eventually Im going with the standback and full controll flash but i dont have the 1300$ to drop on it yet, until then ill hope for the best

 

[mr_mazda329]

This i good to know. I going to try my luck and install the DP when it comes and see how everything turns out. I do have a WB02 coming also so i could monitor my AFR's. Eventually Im going with the standback and full controll flash but i dont have the 1300$ to drop on it yet, until then ill hope for the best

WB02? Why not just get a dashhawk? Car comes with a WBO2 anyways.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

WB02? Why not just get a dashhawk? Car comes with a WBO2 anyways.

I dint know or cars came factory with a WB02 sensor, My fault for not researching it. would of saved me some $$ if knew this cause i could have just ordered the guage and not the guage sensor combo.

I plan on getting a dash hawk in a month or so but, I have the tripple vent pod and i wanted to utilize it. the only thing in there is my boost guage and it looks crappy missing the other 2 guages.

 

[mr_mazda329]

I dint know or cars came factory with a WB02 sensor, My fault for not researching it. would of saved me some $$ if knew this cause i could have just ordered the guage and not the guage sensor combo.

I plan on getting a dash hawk in a month or so but, I have the tripple vent pod and i wanted to utilize it. the only thing in there is my boost guage and it looks crappy missing the other 2 guages.

In another slot, you can put Oil pressure gauge (need the OP sender sandwich plate). Monitoring Oil pressure is nice..something that the DH cant do.